: LS7 Available - Should I get it?



atdeneve
11-06-07, 09:20 AM
LS7 on ebay. What else would I need to buy to do the swap? Anything I should be worried about? Should compression tests be run? Any other things to check? Should I just be starting with a new block? Let me know, guys. Steer me straight.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150179107108

Florian
11-06-07, 09:39 AM
yes get it tested. YOull need harnesses, computer, dry sump for oil. OR you can tear into it and use a 24x reluctor wheel and your current setup should work.


F

ZEUSROTTY
11-06-07, 09:43 AM
Okay so I need two people in ILLINOIS to need a refinance... Right now. No, I mean now.

Silver Dollar
11-06-07, 09:50 AM
$5,500 seems like a great deal. Of course, that's just the starting point.

I'm curious how much work is involved in this conversion. Nothing is plug-n-play in today's computer controlled world.

Who's done this (Chef??)? Would they do it again?

atdeneve
11-06-07, 09:51 AM
So, if I have the wiring harness, the ECM, and the dry sump, I'm good to go? Would there be any advantage/disadvantage to going the 24x reluctor wheel? By current setup, do you mean the V's ECM? What's the reluctor tooth number on the LS7 (that's the main gear attached to the crank shaft, right?)?

Weekend job? Just about as easy as the maggie, right?

Silver Dollar
11-06-07, 09:53 AM
Weekend job? Just about as easy as the maggie, right?

Ahhhh, my guess would be no.

BTW, the ebay add says dry sump included.

atdeneve
11-06-07, 10:02 AM
Guess the sarcasm didn't come across.

Yea, I know. Says the wiring harness, ECM, and dry sump are included. Think it's got most everything I need.

Still waiting to hear on what changing the reluctor wheel entails? Why does that need to be changed and what would be the difference in going that route?

NormV
11-06-07, 10:06 AM
Depends what your goal is. The 427 moniker is over rated. Get a LS3 with intake and exhaust and you'll whp of the Z06.

Norm

Silver Dollar
11-06-07, 10:47 AM
Guess the sarcasm didn't come across.


:lol: OK

The add also says:

"Complete from fuel injection to oil pan"

By definition, a dry sump engine wouldn't have an oil pan.

onebadcad
11-06-07, 10:49 AM
Bid is at $5,700 and still climbing.
Norm nailed it, plenty of other options when looking for a motor swap and the LS3 is putting out some higher-than-expected numbers.
I got mine from here:

http://ultrastreet.net/

Buying a used motor from a non-GM authorized retailer, who is not local to you could turn into a major headache-JM2cents.

atdeneve
11-06-07, 11:26 AM
Yeah, that would be my biggest worry. There are a couple things that sorta seemed a bit off (as SD mentioned above) and he has a relatively low feed back history (though, hell, my feed back history is pretty much nil on ebay, as well, so).

S'why I wanted some feed back from you guys.

Thing is, the 427 and the LS7 ... well, it's familiar. When I start lookin at all these other blocks, I just get lost. Which one do I get? What pistons do I use? What cam? Forged internals? Springs? Valves? How do I specify each of these and know what works?

I clicked on the ultrastreet link and it seems all the blocks they had were carburator / spider intake designs. That's an LS3? I thought the LS3 was the new engine going into the base Corvette. Doesn't it have a similar intake manifold design to the LS6 (or LS7, for that matter)? Aren't carburator / spider intakes more often used in hot rod or older muscle car projects? Don't they require speed density tuning, which is more of a pain in the ass?

Frack. See what I mean? Just start to open up a whole new bag a worms. Don't really know where to start. Guess that's why I go for the (relatively) simple or familiar / known variable, the LS7. I don't know. I need to be schooled some.

The Tony Show
11-06-07, 12:47 PM
If you're looking for a built motor and don't want to fart around with choosing internals and heads, I'd say go to Katech or GMPP and get a complete motor, preassembled.

gothicaleigh
11-06-07, 12:57 PM
You V guys get off my LS7! I need that thing for my e30. http://www.8thdaycreations.com/images/gothicaleigh/gothiraspberry.gif

Florian
11-06-07, 03:15 PM
So, if I have the wiring harness, the ECM, and the dry sump, I'm good to go? Would there be any advantage/disadvantage to going the 24x reluctor wheel? By current setup, do you mean the V's ECM? What's the reluctor tooth number on the LS7 (that's the main gear attached to the crank shaft, right?)?

Weekend job? Just about as easy as the maggie, right?

If completely dismantling the engine is a weekend job, then youre spot on, otherwise, its a pain in the ass. Yes, I meant the V's ECM...it cant read the LS7s outputs. LS7 reluctor is 58x (I think)
Youll need a spacer plate for your clutch regardless.


F

Florian
11-06-07, 03:17 PM
$5,500 seems like a great deal. Of course, that's just the starting point.

I'm curious how much work is involved in this conversion. Nothing is plug-n-play in today's computer controlled world.

Who's done this (Chef??)? Would they do it again?

Cheffo did a stroked LS2, different beast, different setup.


F

Silver Dollar
11-06-07, 03:20 PM
OK, I knew he'd done major tansplant surgery, just couldn't remember what.

rand49er
11-06-07, 03:31 PM
Ahhhh, my guess would be no. ...That'd be mine also.



If you're looking for a built motor and don't want to fart around with choosing internals and heads, I'd say go to Katech or GMPP and get a complete motor, preassembled.My last issue of GM High-Tech Performance has an article on this. I agree with Tony. I think you'd sleep MUCH better, too.

onebadcad
11-06-07, 04:20 PM
If money is no issue than go with Katech, Lingenfelter, Mallett or any of the proven speed shops. Very pricey, but you will be happy with results. Of course getting the car back to them for any warranty issues could be difficult.
If you are trying to save for your retirement, use Google, ebay, etc... and talk to a shop that will build exactly what you want (LS2, LS6, LS7, 383ci, 408ci, 440ci-the list is endless,,, good internals/componenets should dictate the price, so if someone has a 'deal', they are probably skimming).
Motors start at $4K and run as high as $10+K, good heads are $2K-$2.5K, cam, lifters, hardware and misc are about $1.5K, install will vary but never go with the cheapest.

Of course the Maggie is an option if you want to keep the motor stock, 130+RWHP gain with a cam and tuning.

Update,,, the auction is now up to $6,600.00.

atdeneve
11-06-07, 05:36 PM
It's not that I'm really lookin to do a major transplant at this very moment. Just saw the LS7 available and seemed like a good deal, seeing as he was willing to let all the contents of that package go for 5500 (yes, I know it will go a bit higher and, by a bit, I mean a good bit more). So I figured I'd get some input, before I just jumped into it.

As for Katech, Lingenfelter, or Mallet, I don't really want to be shelling out premium bucks just for a name, but, on the other hand, I guess a new LS7s gonna cost at least, what, like, 13 grand. It may have even gone up a bit. I think retail used to be about 16 grand and now it's like 17.5. Of those tuners, I would probably go with Katech (seemed to be the most reasonably priced), though I haven't really checked out Lingenfelter (I think they're priced pretty ridiculously). Of course, they all usually give a break on pricing, as far as what they have listed (they know it's ludicrously high).

The building-what-I-want route seems to be the answer, at least, in terms of cost-effectiveness, however, that's also the most confusing. As OBC said, the list is endless. Why should I go with one block over another? Lotta questions to be answered with this route.

Well, then, you might ask, "why go with the LS7 block?" Again, it's just the familiarity. Honestly, I don't know why. All's I know is that it's possible and it's a great engine with a good amount of power.

I have also been contemplating the Maggie route, due to the ease of installation, even though the supercharger route would be my last choice, with twin turbos and naturally aspirated superceding it (whichever the route, I would wanna do all the work).

Anyhow, like I said, I ran across the LS7, seemed like a possible great find (awesome engine, what I want, good price). Well, we'll see how the price climbs. If it gets astronomically high or close enough to what a new engine would cost, oh well. Seems like a good option, if priced right - obviously. Only twenty more hours or so...

atdeneve
11-06-07, 05:48 PM
Checked my email. Got a response from the seller. Shady. Knew it was too good to be true. Oh well. Guess that's for another day.

Scatillac
11-06-07, 08:26 PM
This is about an 05 car and applies to the LS6-based cars. I haven't researched the LS2/7 compatibility for cars so equipped, but I would think that it would be easier.

To begin with, the LS7 oiling is expensive to deal with ($1100 or so in tank/lines or $1500-$1800 to convert to wet sump) and the LS6 cars are not compatible with the 58x/4x sensor systems. Either way you slice it, the crank has to come out of the engine.

To circumvent these issues, I did an LS7 wet sump using an LS7 block w/Cola crank with 24x reluctor wheel, Callies rods, Diamond pistons (Mahle rings) and custom LPE cam (similar to GT11 except for 1.8 rockers). The oil pan, windage tray and pickup are CTS-V. The heads, intake manifold and coil packs are LS7 assemblies. The clutch/flywheel set is a GM factory 04 C5 LS6 with a Katech slave spacer. The exhaust is 1 7/8" d-port Kooks w/cat tubes (both Jet-Hot 2000 coated) feeding a Corsa system.

I had to use the LS2/7 sensor adapters (Katech) because of the LS2 style MAP location and LS6 knock sensor relocation. I also used USCAR injector harness stubs (solder & heat shrink) that allow the use of the LS7 injectors. Other than that, it's a very basic straight forward swap that can be done in a weekend once you have the engine ready.

I now have an LS7-based swap (in a very, very mild state of tune..just a cam swap away from 550 rwhp :bonkers: ) with about 16.8 k total (including a Wheelcraft job on the rear wheels) instead of 19.9 to 22.5 k in a package car that is still LS6 based.

You can save 15-18% by doing your own work and have better components if you're patient and shop around. Plus, you know exactly what you have inside the thing.

atdeneve
11-07-07, 07:16 AM
Reading posts like yours s'what makes me wanna jump on such a project. Good and wholesome fun. Sounds awesome. Did you do your own work?

What's a wheelcraft job, by the way?

Scatillac
11-08-07, 05:07 AM
The only things I sourced out were the crankshaft balancing (John's Machine), the tune (Nick Williams) and the +1" rear wheel widening (Wheelcraft).

I took my time on the engine and made sure that I had all parts for the swap on hand before actually starting on the car.

Everything went smooth except for a defective thermostat (opening at 198* instead of 180*) that I had to replace several days later. :helpless:

The day after the tune, the car passed the OBDII state inspection with no issues whatsoever.

Florian
11-08-07, 10:38 AM
The only things I sourced out were the crankshaft balancing (John's Machine), the tune (Nick Williams) and the +1" rear wheel widening (Wheelcraft).

I took my time on the engine and made sure that I had all parts for the swap on hand before actually starting on the car.

Everything went smooth except for a defective thermostat (opening at 198* instead of 180*) that I had to replace several days later. :helpless:

The day after the tune, the car passed the OBDII state inspection with no issues whatsoever.

thats an impressive swap...:sneaky::D

F

CTSV_Rob
11-09-07, 12:48 AM
Your turn F?

Humanoid
11-12-07, 08:19 PM
I would stay with a motor that uses the same electronics if you want to save money, time and head ache. A built LS6 or LS2 can be very badass as well.

I have a buddy who decided he wanted to go from a 6 cyl to a LS2 in his Chevy Colorodo pickup truck and brought it to a reputable shot here in Houston. It has been almost 1.5 years and the truck runs but computer and electrical gremlins haunt him so much that it has not been released from the shop working on it. He took it away from the first shop doing the work and is now on the second. After seeing what he is going through I would never attempt that kind of shit. Of course his main problems arise from insisting that he use the factory gadges and that is be able to get an inspection(ODB2 here in Houston). If he just dumped the Colorodos cluster and computer he would probubly have been driving it a long time ago.