: Changing brakes on 96 SLS

10-15-07, 06:37 PM
Changed brakes on cars just a few times....decided to try it on my '96 Seville SLS...I know there are several good posts on how to change the brakes on similar cars....But I can't even get the sliding caliper pins off.....!!! When usuing the ratchet to remove the hex bolts, it reaches a point where the sliding pin just spins and won't come out any further. And they won't simply slide out.....Any ideas?

10-16-07, 11:40 AM
My 01 eldo has a set of plastic/rubber sleeves down in the very bottom of the pins bore. I suspect that if yours is the same.. they are simply gripping the pin and not allowing it to come out.

Just pull them out once the threads have cleared.


11-01-07, 10:33 AM
Got the job dnoe...Not sure why that sliding pin wouldn't coume out a t first, but cam out just fine the next time....Got a very slight shimmy at around 55 mph (almost imperceptible)...but not worried about that....I figure it's wheel balancing...


11-01-07, 01:11 PM
Did you have any steering wheel shimmy or vibration before you did the brake job ?

Your explanation of the sliding pin rubber boot and the work it took to pull the pin may, just may, point to a partial solution of a persistent vibration in some Seville units.

Interesting idea to explore........

Hint: When you pull the wheels next time, mark the wheel and a stud so you can remount the wheel exactly as it came off.

Sequence torque all lug nuts to 100 ft/lb.

11-04-07, 10:12 AM
No. There was no simmy b4.....But I figured it was because I forgot to remount the wheel exactly the way it was b4 (especially since they were balanced/weighted).

How would the sliding pin be the source of the shimmy and how can I fix it?

What do you mean by "sequence torque"? I torqued the lugs the way my dad taught me to do it....torque one, then torque the one across from it (not the one next to it)...kinda like drawing a 5-pint star. I torqued them to the specs in the service manual. If what I did was not sequence torqueing--and you educate me--I'll go back and sequence torque them to 100.

I really appreciate your taking the time to give advice....

11-04-07, 10:19 AM
You tightened the lug nuts in the proper sequence. Torque to 100 the same way.

My take on the caliper pins is that, if the rotor is several thousandths out of true, then it would induce a rotation vibration in the caliper because the pads never release more than a few thousandths of an inch. If the caliper couldn't "float" on the pins, it would transfer the vibration equally to the steering and suspension due to the 45 degree cant of the caliper. The most obvious symptom of an out of true or warped caliper is brake pedal pulsation and body vibration on heavy braking. Just a thought......

11-22-07, 09:24 PM
No pulsating in the brakes.....just the steering wheel and body.

Tightened the lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. That helped some....

Happy Thanksgiving...