: Break Pads 2005 STS 1SG



Benjamin Simon
10-12-07, 03:01 PM
I need new break pads for my STS. It has 25K on the clock, I suppose that is acceptable. What am I looking at cost for parts and labor? I plan on letting the dealer do the job.Are there different types of pads I should consider?Should I do all 4 of the pads? Currently the right rear is the only one making sounds.What size of pad do I need? I have the 1SG, I am really not sure which pad I need. In my 99 STS I have break pad sensors. Do the new STS have this system also? I was expecting to see a message, not hear an annoying sound.

Cajonkev
10-12-07, 03:50 PM
I need new break pads for my STS. It has 25K on the clock, I suppose that is acceptable. What am I looking at cost for parts and labor? I plan on letting the dealer do the job.Are there different types of pads I should consider?Should I do all 4 of the pads? Currently the right rear is the only one making sounds.What size of pad do I need? I have the 1SG, I am really not sure which pad I need. In my 99 STS I have break pad sensors. Do the new STS have this system also? I was expecting to see a message, not hear an annoying sound.

Wear indicators not sensors this time around.

They seem to wear fairly evenly front to back (back less as expected) and I did all four at once at 30k when the first whimper hit.

1SG/PHP was quoted as $600 and finished for $570 on mine for dealer job. Same job with a dealer 45 miles away was quoted as $720 so YMMV.

Lots of opinions on pads so i'll leave that to others...

Skibanker
10-12-07, 04:32 PM
Can anyone explain to me why I can get a brake job at "Fred's Brake Jobs" down the street for $129.00 yet the Cadillac dealer wants to charge $350? Seems excessive to me.

Benjamin Simon
10-12-07, 04:38 PM
[quote=Cajonkev;1248784]Wear indicators not sensors this time around.

They seem to wear fairly evenly front to back (back less as expected) and I did all four at once at 30k when the first whimper hit.

1SG/PHP was quoted as $600 and finished for $570 on mine for dealer job. quote]

Anyone try this at home? I think I am going to do my own. Do I need any special tools?Any suggestions on brand? Longevity, low dust, and low noise is very important to me. Is this something I can find at autozone?

dkozloski
10-12-07, 04:59 PM
People going to "Fred's Brake Jobs" are looking for value for money. People going to the dealer looking for anything other than warranty work are assumed to have more money than good sense and the price is adjusted accordingly.

porkfarm
10-12-07, 08:06 PM
Very easy to do the brakes on these cars. No special tools needed. I got all the parts online for the perf. brake package. Just make sure you get the correct pads for your brakes and new rotors if the old one are less than perfect. I also got front rotors; did not need them; but now I can resurface my old ones for the next time I do them. So, 4 pads 2 rotors was $ 160.00. Hardest part of the the job was cleaning the chrome rim and waxing it before I put them back on.

Benjamin Simon
10-12-07, 08:46 PM
How do I know which are the correct pads? How many options are there? I have the 1SG but I am not sire if I have the QAF, Performance Handleing Package. I have Z Rated tires. Are the pads just different sizes?

porkfarm
10-12-07, 09:50 PM
make sure you have the perf brake package. You should with the 1SG. Check your trunk code sticker for JL9 or JE5. I got ROTEX gold kevlar from brakeworld online. I got my rotors from partsamerica, but I just checked and now I don't see the deal that I got before. The price doubled. Dang.. I got a good deal.

WE1YH145596 BRAKE ROTOR BX 2 $39.88 cheapest one I see now is 71 bucks.

Curious George
10-13-07, 05:43 PM
Very easy to do the brakes on these cars. No special tools needed....

Hear, Hear! Ask your dealer's service writer to print the pad replacement instructions. The factory pad replacement kit contains anti-squeak grease and new caliper location bolts. I replaced the front pads last February at 26,000 miles in less than an hour, wheels up to wheels down, one Sunday morning at a driving school in the paddock at Willow Springs Raceway. After changing the pads, go directly to a road where you can make a couple of vigorous stops from 50 MPH to bed the pads into your rotors.

The factory pads are equipped with wear indicators that are supposed to warn you that the pads are getting thin by scraping on the rotors. However, on my OE pads, the wear indicators were cleverly shaped so as to avoid all contact with the rotors. I'm very happy that I decided to check the pads when I did. They were all thinner than my hair.

My car has the Performance Handling Package that calls for high performance front pads. These pads are indeed high performance. And they are as quiet as church mice for about 8,000 miles. After that, they make disturbing grinding noises as though all the pad material is gone (a vehicle characteristic, according to Cadillac). And they make more dust than a Sahara sandstorm. I now have 10,000 miles on the replacement factory pads and they are once again making noise.

The STS-V guys seem to like Hawk pads. Go the their forum and search for brake pads. Way back when I had very good experience with Porterfield RS pads.

porkfarm
10-13-07, 08:31 PM
I also bought some brake fluid and bleed the brakes. The old fluid was dirty but did not look like it was from looking at the master cylinder, but when I pumped out from the caliper, it was dark brown. An extra 10 mins a tire, but well worth it.

dkozloski
10-13-07, 08:45 PM
I also bought some brake fluid and bleed the brakes. The old fluid was dirty but did not look like it was from looking at the master cylinder, but when I pumped out from the caliper, it was dark brown. An extra 10 mins a tire, but well worth it.
The black rubber brake pistons leach pigment into the brake fluid and turn it a dark color. This does not neccessarily indicate that the brake fluid is degraded in any way.

porkfarm
10-13-07, 10:03 PM
Anything leaching into break fluid is not good. Sure, you can run the same break fluid with pigment, water, rust.. but does that mean it's at optimum performance ? It's cheap money, and break fluid should be changed every two years.

Benjamin Simon
10-14-07, 11:54 PM
When I do this job, do I need to rent a tool to push the piston on the rear brakes? I had to in my 99 STS, it was annoying.
Thanks!

porkfarm
10-15-07, 08:04 AM
I have a cheap 5 buck, twist to push tool, but you can use vise grips or channel locks to push the piston back in.

cguthrie
10-15-07, 05:00 PM
Benjamin,

Ironically, I had a 99 STS and have a 2005SG1!

On the 99, I believe I used an open end half inch wrench and a screwdiver through the closed end to screw the piston back in, I believe.

I may be hallucinating, but I probably got that tip on this forum, and had no prob's at all. If I'm remembering a different car/truck I'm prepared to be humiliated. Also, I'm not sure if the 2005 is set up that way.

Good luck, let us know!

CG
2005 SG1 35K

Benjamin Simon
10-15-07, 11:19 PM
I have a cheap 5 buck, twist to push tool, but you can use vise grips or channel locks to push the piston back in.

I am going to buy a C-Clap or see if autozone has the special tool for rent.

I just dont want to ruin my caliper.

Heavy_Metal
10-16-07, 06:33 AM
A c-clamp works fine with the old break pad between the clamp and pistons while keeping the c-clamp centered. If you are changing the rotors, use some string or wire to secure the caliper so it doesn't pull on the break line. Other than that, I don't see how you can damage the caliper unless you toque the bolts incorrectly.