: Startup Attempt-Bizarre



Ivan Billson
09-23-07, 01:10 PM
07 SRX NS

Yesterday my wife and I came out of a restaurant and I had a strange experience attempting to start our car. The sequence of events-----
1) Double clicked key fob to unlock all doors.
2) Lifted up tailgate to put something in back.
3) wife gets in passenger side.
4) I, enter drivers side and insert key in steering column.
5) Turn key to start position. Absolutely nothing. No lights internal or external, Cannot move shift lever from P to N. No lights on dash. NOTHING.
6) Tried to rotate key to the off position. Would not budge from the accessory position and was locked in steering column. Could not remove.

My wife and I set there cursing Cadillac and modern day electronics while we tried to figure out what to do. After about a minute or two I started to get out and open the hood when suddenly all lights came on and the car started right up. No warning messages on DIC after startup.

Drove home and have attempted to duplicate this weird scenario to no avail.

I Think this may have something to do with Security Lockout but who knows. Has anyone else experienced this crazy situation. Have thought about taking it to the Dealer but I know what they will tell me. Well we cannot duplicate, all systems normal, Blah, Blah. Blah.

MortnCyn
09-23-07, 04:57 PM
I will go with john d's suggestin on your 9-15 post. It very well may be your battery. If a battery has a problem it can cause some wierd things with some cars. My '94 MARK VIII had a problem in that the interior lights would not shut off. Kept pulling the fuse that also shut down my power seats. Thought sure I had a relay problem. Even bought one. Wound up that the battery was failing and after the battery replaced, no more problems. Then it could be ...........

Ivan Billson
09-23-07, 05:31 PM
I have a new battery in it. Was replaced before this occurance. I did not mention that this situation occured several weeks ago also after repeated start-ups in my garage while I was running some tests. That time it occured with my old battery. I left that out of the original post because I did not want to confuse the issue. The same type of occurance. I checked the voltage at the battery posts and I swear it was 1.5V. I discounted that because I must of misread the Voltage Meter. The power came back on again after a period of minutes. The charging system is working.
Ivan

john d
09-23-07, 07:13 PM
07 SRX NS

Yesterday my wife and I came out of a restaurant and I had a strange experience attempting to start our car. The sequence of events-----
1) Double clicked key fob to unlock all doors.
2) Lifted up tailgate to put something in back.
3) wife gets in passenger side.
4) I, enter drivers side and insert key in steering column.
5) Turn key to start position. Absolutely nothing. No lights internal or external, Cannot move shift lever from P to N. No lights on dash. NOTHING.
6) Tried to rotate key to the off position. Would not budge from the accessory position and was locked in steering column. Could not remove.

My wife and I set there cursing Cadillac and modern day electronics while we tried to figure out what to do. After about a minute or two I started to get out and open the hood when suddenly all lights came on and the car started right up. No warning messages on DIC after startup.

Drove home and have attempted to duplicate this weird scenario to no avail.

I Think this may have something to do with Security Lockout but who knows. Has anyone else experienced this crazy situation. Have thought about taking it to the Dealer but I know what they will tell me. Well we cannot duplicate, all systems normal, Blah, Blah. Blah.
Do live near Roswell, a power station or military installation?

Smokin' SRX
09-24-07, 12:52 PM
Had similar problem. Bad battery post connector (was overtightened when new batt installed and cracked inside!) Pull on cables and posts. Reinstall battery. Don't be surprised if cable breraks off (from battery) in your hand!
Nothing else will cause what you describe except ground cable to block/chasis loose/broken. It's a battery power thing for sure!!

MortnCyn
09-25-07, 09:08 AM
Had a Chevy that would all of a sudden not start. Then it was OK in a heart beat. Possibly from slamming the hood closed. Ground was loose and just every once in a while it would lose contact. Took some time to discover.

Ivan Billson
09-26-07, 01:41 PM
:(It gets worse. Yesterday My wife and I took a ferry from Keystone on Whidby island to Port Townsend Wa. When we went down to the car deck to drive off the same conditions occured. All the cars and trucks were off loaded and here sat the Caddy with the hood up with 5 guys standing there pissed. They couldn't even push it off because it was locked in Park. I had my volt meter with me and the voltage at the battery terminals was about 1 volt. I jiggled the ground cable at the post and the lights finally came on and we got it started. The cable at the ground post rotates slightly so I thought it might be loose. I checked the bolt that holds it to the battery and it is tight. I did not attempt to tighten it further as I was afraid of breaking it off in the battery as another poster warned. This morning I have been out in the garage with the engine off and with the volt meter attached attempting to short it out but I can't do it. I understand the Ground cable goes directly to the Starter,the engine block and the bolt on the fender for jump starting. Is that correct? I would kind of like to isolate this and repeat it. My dealer is like 70 miles away and if I can't get this to re-occur when I want it to I frankly don't expect much help.

john d
09-26-07, 04:44 PM
:(It gets worse. Yesterday My wife and I took a ferry from Keystone on Whidby island to Port Townsend Wa. When we went down to the car deck to drive off the same conditions occured. All the cars and trucks were off loaded and here sat the Caddy with the hood up with 5 guys standing there pissed. They couldn't even push it off because it was locked in Park. I had my volt meter with me and the voltage at the battery terminals was about 1 volt. I jiggled the ground cable at the post and the lights finally came on and we got it started. The cable at the ground post rotates slightly so I thought it might be loose. I checked the bolt that holds it to the battery and it is tight. I did not attempt to tighten it further as I was afraid of breaking it off in the battery as another poster warned. This morning I have been out in the garage with the engine off and with the volt meter attached attempting to short it out but I can't do it. I understand the Ground cable goes directly to the Starter,the engine block and the bolt on the fender for jump starting. Is that correct? I would kind of like to isolate this and repeat it. My dealer is like 70 miles away and if I can't get this to re-occur when I want it to I frankly don't expect much help.
Was the 1 volt measured at the battery posts or at the cable?
I think that the battery's individual cells are 2 volts so if there's 1 dead cell the reading would be 10v, if 2 dead cells then 8v. Can't figure how only 1 v would happen other than the loose cable to the post. It shouldn't rotate..think you found the problem. May have stripped threads in the battery post, attaching bolt or one or both have internal breaks.
Just checked mine for rotation...no way...it's tight!
Any thoughts out there other than a bad cable connection?

73Thumper
09-27-07, 01:29 PM
My thoughts only - but battery's in general are not of the quality they were in the past. (some brands are better than others - but I have had issues with most brands - including Delco, Interstate, Diehard, etc. With all I have heard on your issue - and other battery issues here and in other forums - poor battery quality is abundant. I know the battery you have is fairly new - but I seriously doubt it is "good". On a side note - I have done failure analysis on electronic componets for years in my present job - you would be amazed at how many failure mechanism exist - many times it is the "humans" who cause the problems - don't realize it - and the failures occur months (or years) latter.

Ivan Billson
09-28-07, 01:26 PM
:suspense:Follow Up. As reported earlier my ground battery cable at the post had some sideways movement but not much. I attached my voltmeter at the posts and rotated it back and forth while reading the voltage trying to get some dramatic change in voltage. It read around 13 volts and changed very little when doing this. Now here is the strange part. While doing this I went to open the tailgate to get a tool. All car doors were unlocked but the tailgate would not open. This got me sidetracked trying to open the tailgate. I started locking the vehicle via keyfob and unlocking the doors by double clicking. All doors opened and the rear lights came on but the tailgate would not unlock. At first I thought I had a blown fuse. I got tired of fooling with it and went back to wiggling the cable at the attach point. I tried the tailgate again and it opened. I followed up on this and found that slight movement of the cable would allow tailgate to open and then not function (unlock).

I then took the cable off at the ground post and looked at it. Looked OK to me so I carefully put it back on and tightened the hell out of it to the point where it would not rotate. Started it up and everything seems fine SO FAR.
All doors unlock including tailgate and all systems seem normal. I have been sterting it up and testing it every 3 or 4 hours.

Now remember this is a new battery installed about a week ago by the dealer.
I am hoping that lack of good contact has been the cause of all of this.
With my luck if it happens again it will be at the most inopportune place possible. I have learned one thing. I will NEVER drive this car again without a voltmeter under the front seat! I will keep you guys posted if it happens again.

Ivan Billson
10-04-07, 01:18 PM
Second Followup:

Well I Thought I had it fixed. Wife took the car out and it occured again, twice. This time I took the ground cable off the battery again and looked at it carefully. The round steel plate which makes contact with the battery has a protrusion which I suppose is to be the main contact when tightened. There is a rubber shroud which overlaps the round contact plate which attachs to the ground cable. The shroud where it overlaps the plate is about 1/8 inch thick. This means that when you tighten the bolt for plate contact you must compress the rubber first to before contact is made by the protrusion. This does not appear to be a good design as you have to torque th bolt to ungodly levels and risk pulling the battery plate out of the battery itself.
I peeled the rubber shroud from around the disc ao that contact was made without compressing the shroud and retorqued the bolt to reasonable levels.
No problems starting in 4 days and the starts are so quite I can hardly hear it.

Everyone having similar battery problems should try this.:duck:

sgilbert
10-04-07, 01:42 PM
I've never heard of a rubber insert. Perhaps it was left there from the factory. In any event, barring a defective battery, I thing you've found your problem.

Hoppiecat
10-06-07, 02:11 PM
I have a 2007 srx v8 with Nav. On 2-3 separate occassions I had the audio screen on when I turned the vehicle off. The next time I started the vehicle, the navagation map was on without it asking you to agree to conditions and hit "ok", the map was just up. I also had problems with my speakers. Sometimes when I cranked the veh they all worked and sometimes only the door speakers worked. The dealership never came up with a solution.

mjk
02-16-08, 06:56 PM
I just had the same thing happen (like the original poster) to me today.

First the key fob wouldn't unlock the car.
Then after opening it with the key there was no signs of any power (no klicking, no lights, nothing -dead)
After a couple attempts to get the key out of the ignition and getting in and out of the car it just starts.
The weird thing is that the "service tire pressure monitors" message comes on and there's no reading for tire pressures.
This data should not be lost just becouse of dead battery, right?
There is other information that is gone like avg milage, miles driven etc...

Also, the battery volt readings (on the DIC) change back and forth between 14V and 15V.

I checked the battery terminals and all looked fine. Got them tight and will see.

Car has started normally since, except the message pops up every time. I guess I need to set the the monitors manually.

FYI : I had my battery replaced last year by the dealer.
Also, a couple of monts ago similar thing happened when the car wouldn't start. Had to jums start it, took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it (battery checked out ok).

WEIRD.

Sorry for the long post.

PS. Ivan Billson, how do I locate this ground cable, do I need to take the battery out?

laserguy
02-16-08, 07:05 PM
Do you have a starter installed ?

Some time the hood switch can create this problems.

Laserguy

mjk
02-16-08, 08:22 PM
no, no starter.

MortnCyn
02-17-08, 10:36 AM
mjk: I copied this from the GM Techlink that used to be available in 2005. A lot of advice from GM Techs that posted solutions to problems. No longer available to the general public.

Proper battery disconnect/connect procedures and precautions are presented numerous places in SI. Itís important to observe and perform the instructions as presented. Failure to do so can cause personal injury, cause damage to the vehicle and its components, and cause various DTCs to set.

The following information highlights the proper steps to take when disconnecting or connecting a battery. For specifics, always consult the SI section that applies to the vehicle youíre servicing.

IMPORTANT: To reduce the risk of personal injury while working near a battery, observe all safety precautions presented in SI.

Disconnecting Procedure
1. Record all preset and theft codes from the radio.
2. Turn off all lamps and accessories.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
4. Loosen the battery negative cable nut.
5. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery.

Connecting Procedure
1. Connecting the battery cable(s) should be done only with the ignition switch in the OFF position. Connecting the battery when the ignition switch is in the ACCESSORY or RUN positions can cause various DTCs to set.

TIP: If you do the connection incorrectly, clear DTCs before investigating any trouble codes for component failure.
2. Clean any existing corrosion from the battery terminal and battery cable using a wire brush.
3. Connect the battery negative cable to the battery. Tighten the battery cable nut to specification.
4. Reset all preset and theft codes previously recorded to the radio.

King3244
02-20-08, 12:50 AM
Where does one find the theft code for the radio?

IsaacFDodson
07-31-10, 11:11 PM
Battery ground connection MUST be solid, tight, metal-to-metal contact. If there is any paint, corrosion or debris there, you're asking for trouble. With todays computer-driven automotive systems the old method of using the frame/body of the vehicle for the ground path can cause all kinds of weird problems when the weather gets to the connections. I even use a small dab of copper-based anti-seize to improve the connection and prevent corrosion.
Good Luck,
Ike