ok, so i've been reading on here that the window regulators on the devilles are always going bad. i deville i just bought had the same problem. i also read that someone on here fixed theirs so i figured i'd give it a try myself.

please note that i didnt plan on documenting this repair so i didnt have a nice camera. i used my camera phone so the pictures aren't as detailed as i would have liked.

i will assume that you have read prior posts as to how to take the door panel off and the window regulator out of the door so i will skip that part. it's relatively straight forward. there aren't but 3 screws that hold the regulator in and i taped the glass to the top of the door to hold it up while i did the repair.

first, you need to take the part that screws to the glass off of the track. you will need to do that by using a flat head to release the white plastic locking tab then rotate it off.

second, i got out my tape measure and took some measurements of the peice that i would need to fabricate. i used a piece of alluminum that i had laying around and some tin snips. here is what i ended up with.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8505/dsc00232mm5.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00232mm5.jpg)

what happens is there is a metal "tab" or "ball" on the steel cable that locks into this piece. when the motor turns, it slides this up and down the track. the factory piece is plastic and breaks.

before we can put our metal pieces in, we need to cut the plastic to allow for a fit. take a hack saw and cut 2 straight lines across. where to cut is shown here by the red lines.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/4521/dsc00233hv7.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00233hv7.jpg)

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/1018/dsc00234ko9.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00234ko9.jpg)

once we did that we can fit the aluminum piece in and make any adjustments as needed. the blue arrow here is where it was broke origionaly and is what we're actually fixing.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5695/dsc00235ss4.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00235ss4.jpg)

make sure that you check everything for clearances. we dont want anything rubbing. make sure that the metal isn't sticking up above the white plastic that it fits into. u may need to trim a little metal off the top of the aluminum for an exact fit.

once i had a good fit and tested the "tab" or "ball" into the hole, i drilled a hole and put a sheet metal skrew to hold things down. a pop rivet will also work here (i couldnt find my pop rivet gun).

i finished up by applying jb weld to the surrounding areas being careful not get it where it shouldnt be. it looks rather crude but i assure you it will not break now!

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/1110/dsc00237lw9.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00237lw9.jpg)

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/5595/dsc00238gk6.th.jpg (http://img514.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00238gk6.jpg)

http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/5966/dsc00239ey6.th.jpg (http://img102.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00239ey6.jpg)

that's basically it. next, just allign the piece back on the track and put the steel cable with the "ball" or "tab" into the hole that we just repaired and snap it back together. be sure to lube and grease everything up while you have it out. put the regulator back in the door, reattatch the glass and plug the motor back up and you should be ready to test your work.

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/476/dsc00240oq7.th.jpg (http://img514.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00240oq7.jpg)

im sure there are other ways to fix this problem but i just thought id share how i fixed mine. it's working great and only took me about 3 or 4 hrs and costed $5 for the jb weld which i still have plenty left over.

thanks for the tip! :)

nice work!

I might give this a try next time one of mine blows like a shotgun now that my certified warranty is expired.

Thanks!

Now explain a little more on what you did with the jb weld, why you needed that ?

Love those OEM designs..Deville 'pop in drop' windows.

I thought only PC's windows crashed.

Yes, the window uses a cable. The cable is attached to a plastic part. Plastic fails. Window drops.

They can be repaired. I have fixed 2 of 4 on mine.


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the jb weld was just so secure it all together. its still working great btw.

Wonder why Cadillac (GM) hasn't retooled the replacement part with a metal piece.

good question. i think gm has to keep the mechanics busy. and i know labor rate here is 95 per hr. i mean think about it... we got a rover on mars.

This was a good recommendation and it got me thinking. I ended up using a couple of cotter pins. Take a look.....

Is it still working with the cotter pins installed?

cotter pins look good.....ill try that next time. I already replaced 2 on my dts.

It looks quite easy. how is it made? how many inches andwhere they are bent?

Well ima try that cotter pin thing now.
My rear driver side door window failed and i bought a new reg on ebay about a year ago and has worked good.
Right after that my driver door window failed. Replaced that one too and yesterday it failed again........cotter pins here i come.