: Rustling noise and loss of power



GeorgeJung
08-24-07, 10:21 PM
I am planning a road trip to do some work on my caddy. Spark plugs, maybe coils etc... I have been reading the AC-Delco 41-987 are the ones for my car. I am reading up more aout it in the upcomng week before I go. But it has 100,000 miles so it is now due...

I havn't driven it in 3 or 4 days and went downtstairs and found a note on my windshielf saying it was leaking oil and there was stuff on the ground to absorb it, looks like it was all gone, except a little patch was wet, i looked closly and it was oil-like but clear and not dirty like the oil in the car.... it needs an oil change soon....

I check the oil and it wasn't down any more than last time I checked a week ago or so. I drove it and paid close attention.... I am not sure what a misfire sounds/looks like, but when i hit the gas there is a rustling noise coming from the drivers side of the engine. It also seems to have lost some power... no codes came up though which i thought was odd. It seems to be almost winding out when i hit the gas... its hard to explain the winding exactly but the rustling noise is quite evident when i hit the gas.

Any ideas? I just parked it 45 min ago, and I am going down shortly to check for leaks and codes and will update shortly... I can't get it up in the air to check it out right now to see exactly where the leak is coming from but will be trying to do so shortly.

Ranger
08-24-07, 10:52 PM
Hard to say from that description, but start by checking your fluids (coolant & trans).

GeorgeJung
08-24-07, 11:02 PM
If fluids are all good, and no codes, would you say it is ok to drive 1000 miles? Do spark plug / coil / misfiring issues send codes?

dkozloski
08-24-07, 11:03 PM
If you're leaking a clean oil, it's either transmission or power steering.

Ranger
08-24-07, 11:19 PM
A misfire will set a DTC if it is bad enough. If it is severe, the SES light will flash. If it is just a light misfire, no DTC will be set and the only detection is the seat of the pants sensor. Hard to say if it is safe to drive 1000 miles. I'd want to know what the noise is and if the leak was from your car and if so, what it is and where it came from.

GeorgeJung
08-25-07, 12:26 AM
kind of off topic, but reading through the FSM, when changing oil it says to fill the oilfilter with oil before installing it. This isn't necessary is it? Oil goes in there anyway.... I have never seen this done on other cars, some oil around the threads sure but.....

Submariner409
08-25-07, 10:05 AM
Most DIY oil changers prefill the filter in order to prevent the 4 or 5 seconds of "dry start" as the oil pump must fill the filter and move any replaced air through the oil passages before pressure comes up. A N* is perhaps the easiest engine to do a filter prefill because the filter is perfectly vertical....no spills. As an aside, in a N* the oil pump is above the oil level, so it has a suction line and check valve to prevent drainback. Any help you can give is good insurance..Just a thought......check the water pump belt (under the guard at the end of the driver's side front cam gear). See if the w/p is leaking. Search through these ^^ threads for info on vacuum leaks and intake manifold plenum (boot connector) leaks.

Ranger
08-25-07, 12:09 PM
kind of off topic, but reading through the FSM, when changing oil it says to fill the oilfilter with oil before installing it. This isn't necessary is it? Oil goes in there anyway.... I have never seen this done on other cars, some oil around the threads sure but.....


I have never prefilled an oil filter and have never had any problems, FWIW. Watch the oil pressure light. It will go out within a second or two of starting.

GeorgeJung
08-26-07, 12:55 PM
I checked today, no leak, I'm pretty sure it was another car as we don't have specific spots in my garage.... I will keep my eye on it....

I am thinking the rustling noise could be a belt, its only noticable when i hit the gas. As mentioned i am taking it in for a lot of small repairs, being an '02 with 100k which belts should be replaced??? Looking at some of submariners posts maybe the water pump belt should be replaced... would the water pump be a good idea to replce now?

The engine takes 1-2 seconds to start after i turn the key, should the starter be replaced as well?

I am having a hard time finding which bulbs the fog lights take....

Ranger
08-26-07, 09:45 PM
I would not replace the water pump till it leaks or the starter till it fails. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I would check the belt tensioners and idler pulleys for the noise you speak of. Check the FPR and the fuel pump relay for the long starting times.

GeorgeJung
08-26-07, 11:09 PM
Ranger I know what you mean, but I do not have the tools myself to fix something that goes wrong with the car and the dealer is my only option, other than the upcoming trip to my 'guy', and one a few months down the road. I am trying to be as proactive as possible to avoid going to the dealer at all. Id rather spend $50 from rockauto for a water pump now than have it go and be forced to go to a dealer.

If the water pump starts to leak I assume an immeadiate fix is neccessary...

Starter doesn't seem to be having problems and I know they are not usually something that just dies but rather shows some signs over time so I am not too worried about it.

On a side note, how long would you estimate it takes to replace the fuel filter. Any ideas how I can get the Fuel Pressure Guage J 34730-1A?

And also the time to replace the cabin air filter? I beleive the cabin air filter is the same as passenger compartment air filter right?

I am leaving this Friday to go down for these repairs so I am trying to figure out what I can do this trip and what will have to wait until next trip.

Ranger
08-27-07, 10:55 AM
You do have to change a leaky water pump fairly soon, but they usually start to leak slowly at the shaft seal. Rarely is it a catastrophic failure and now that silicates have been removed from the coolant they last a lot longer.

Fuel filter should be a quick easy job. Just remember to relieve the pressure before pulling the filter or you'll get a fuel bath. You can pick up a fuel pressure gauge anywhere, Napa, Walmart, Murray's, AZ or many online tool stores.

Cabin filter aka passenger compartment air filter is a bitch to replace on the Seville. It it above and to the right of the accelerator. It is in 3 segments. Do a search and you'll see what I mean. If I never see one again it will be too soon.

GeorgeJung
08-27-07, 11:20 AM
When releiving the pressure on the fuel system, The FSM says I need the fuel pressure guage. However, I was reading on here there is a nipple which you can squeeze to do this, from what I understand without the fuel pressure guage. Is this correct or do I need to get the fuel pressure guage?

I have been reading at length about the cabin air filter, and found some good threads. I'm actually looking forward to doing it because it doesn't sound like one has to be very mechanically inclined to do it, just more of a getting the thing in there issue.... Worst case I'll go without it....

Ranger
08-27-07, 11:33 AM
When releiving the pressure on the fuel system, The FSM says I need the fuel pressure guage. However, I was reading on here there is a nipple which you can squeeze to do this, from what I understand without the fuel pressure guage. Is this correct or do I need to get the fuel pressure guage?
No, you do not need a fuel pressure gauge to relieve the pressure. Look on the fuel rail and you will see a schreader valve (looks just like a tire air valve). Remove the cap, place a rag over it and press the valve (exactly like letting air out of a tire). Use the rag to absorb the fuel. You should get an oz. or so of fuel out of it.


I have been reading at length about the cabin air filter, and found some good threads. I'm actually looking forward to doing it because it doesn't sound like one has to be very mechanically inclined to do it, just more of a getting the thing in there issue.... Worst case I'll go without it....
You'll soon change your thinking on that one. No, you do not have to be mechanically inclined, just a midget contortionist. http://www.rockauto has the best price on them that I have seen if you stay away from the charcoal filter. I think the one I got was a Wix filter.

GeorgeJung
08-27-07, 11:17 PM
The Wix is what I will be sticking with. I was looking at a GM Cabin filter as it is slightly cheaper... is there a major difference between GM and Wix?

Ranger
08-28-07, 01:56 AM
I don't think there is much of a difference. They are just paper filters much like an engine air filter. I am surprised that GM is cheaper.

GeorgeJung
09-04-07, 03:19 PM
As mentioned I will be changing the oil, coolant, transmission fluid, and thinking about changing power steering fluid. With the transmission fluid, from what I read there are two drain plugs correct? Should I change the filter as well? Looking on rockauto they recommend, WIX Part # 58895.

My FSM recommends PF-58 oil filter, whereas everyone else seems to recommend PF-61.... Is one just longer than the other? Which should I use?

For the oil there is only one plug, what about coolant, just one plug as well?

Does the Power steering fluid need to be changed? Just topped up maybe? I know ranger said he never touched his so I am thinking mine is probably OK.

Thanks again guys...

Ranger
09-07-07, 06:46 PM
If I am not mistaken, the PF61 superceeds the PF58. There is only one drain plug. Likewise for the coolant. It is under the left side of the radiator and is accessible through a hole in the shroud. Easiest way to access it is to get a 6" length of 3/4" dowel rod and cut a slot in the end of it to turn the drain plug.

There is no filter to change in the trans unless it is dismantled. There are 2 reusable screens that can be cleaned if necessary. I think the side cover drain plug is between them if I remember correctly or under the wire loom. No drain plug on the trans pan.