: I figured it out!!!...Almost..:(



Roswell256
04-15-04, 02:00 PM
Sorry put it in the wrong place...should be in the suspension part...but until it gets moved

I figured out why my car was giving me an S011 code. The fuse was blown. THE F'ing FUSE!!!... here I am worrying about an $800 strut. so I replaced it and all was good............for about 3 minutes. then the fuse blew again..... I'm going to test the lines and see if it isn 't a short somewhere other then the strut that I can fix with out having to replace the strut. bbob... do you have any idea where the first place to look is? It also gave me a P070 "Intermittent TPS Signal" while I was checking codes. I wouldn't think this has anything to do with it...but you never know. I'd just cleared them like 2 minutes prior. I've never seen this error before.. this is new. I'll have to pull out my helms and trouble shoot it down.

thanks

EDIT: I should also add that I fixed the problem and drove maybe 1.5miles down the road then stopped for lunch... when I got back out and started the car and took off it took about half way back and it threw the code. when I got back to work I checked the fuze and found it blown again.

Also I'm not sure if this is relevant but when I first got the car I checked codes and was getting one about the Resister Module being bad. I haven't seen this error since...and even with the fuse blowing... I haven't seen that error code... but maybe that is where my short is???

growe3
04-16-04, 12:45 PM
I would advise removing each front wheel and carefully following the electrical lead from where the electrical lead leaves the solenoid at the bottom of the strut, looking for chafing, pinched or other damage to the lead.

Separate the connection and clean it with spray electrical cleaner, allow the connection plugs to dry before reconnecting.

Might help.

-George

Roswell256
04-16-04, 02:29 PM
Thanks... I'm taking it to the hobby shop as soon as I get off. I love that place .. for $4.00 an hr its like yoru mechanic letting you use his shop.... I'll let you know what I find...

Thanks again
-Robert-

Roswell256
04-17-04, 09:43 PM
Ok and update.. from what I can tell my Damper is bad. I'm pretty sure the Damper is the Strut so therrfore costs $800. I kept blowing fuses. Then I tore it down and found the connecter. When I Ohm tested it I was getting 0.5 ohms. A little low. so I decided what the hell... I'd see how many amps I'm pulling. maybe i'm lucky and I can just swap it with a 15amp rather then a 10. No luck. when I probed it with the multimeter it kept rising...when it made it to about 20 I cut it out. too much for me.

On the noise I've been hearing. I took the wheel off and the shrouds off under there and started the car so that I could listen to the noise. It sounded like it was just a tension Pully. After I cut it off I figure what ever has the bearings going out on it will be warm as it is generating a lot of heat. I started feeling and ended up burning my fingers on the A/C compresser Clutch. bbob. Is there a way that I can swap the Clutch out without haveing to pull the compressor or discharge/recharge the A/C at all???

Othere then that it was a fairly productive day

Thanks....
Roswell

Goodyr
04-17-04, 10:45 PM
I had this problem about 2 months ago. The people that do the work on my car thought it was the pulley, then the power steering pump. But it was the bearing. I believe they said it was the clutch bearing. I do not wrench cars anymore. Anyway it took a special tool and was quite a job. They did not have to recharge the system as they didn't purge it. I think if you do a search you will find the thread. I beleve it was answered by bbobynski. I hope this helps.

Ralph

Roswell256
04-18-04, 03:04 AM
LOL...same thing I was thinking at first... Power stearing pump then tensioner pulley. Well I was hoping it was the tensioner pulley anyway. If the part isn't too much maybe the auto hobby shop here on base will have the tool to do it.

Thanks man.. That helps a lot

-Roswell-