mtflight
08-05-07, 01:15 PM
So I had a frustrating experience with the GM10-AUX from PIE. Apparently it was designed to work with the 10 pin CD changer cable on Cadillacs, but later they found out it only works on the Catera. Unfortunately not all dealers made the update and hence I'm stuck with mine (and I have an ETC not a Catera). With the GM10-AUX you connect it in lieu of the CD changer. With my device you need the CD changer in place.
So I looked up the connector information for the CD changer, and I discovered the audio lines were clearly labeled. So I cut the two audio cables before the plug (Left and right), and I spliced into the ground (and shared it with the 4 jacks: RL, RL)
I then spliced each end of the cable and fed it to RCA jacks. I purchased 4 female RCA jacks (LR to AMP, and LR from CD Changer). If my experiment did not work, I could always bridge them by using a set of stereo RCA cables.
So I ran 2 sets of RCA cables from the trunk to the glove box. In the glove box I have an Audio/Video switch (Sony) with up to 4 inputs.
One set of cables is plugged in to the CD changer out, another input is to my GARMIN Nuvi GPS with MP3 Player, and the output is the other set of RCA cables running to the trunk and into the other set of RCA jacks (feeding to the AMP--masqueraded as the CD changer).
So I fired up the car, and turned to the CD changer with the SOURCe button on the stereo (with the AV switch to that input), and I heard the CDs playing. Then I switched to the other source (with the AV switch in the glove box) and there it was!! Best of all this was really cheap to do.
Note that if you use portable audio and power it with the car (cigarette lighter adapter) you will probably need a Ground Loop Insulator (I got one at Radio Shack for ~$16). If you use it's batteries--you're fine.
So there it is! Soooo much better than an FM modulator or Tape adapter (yuck!).... :thumbsup: and cheap to build!!!
If anyone has any questions--hit me up.
So I looked up the connector information for the CD changer, and I discovered the audio lines were clearly labeled. So I cut the two audio cables before the plug (Left and right), and I spliced into the ground (and shared it with the 4 jacks: RL, RL)
I then spliced each end of the cable and fed it to RCA jacks. I purchased 4 female RCA jacks (LR to AMP, and LR from CD Changer). If my experiment did not work, I could always bridge them by using a set of stereo RCA cables.
So I ran 2 sets of RCA cables from the trunk to the glove box. In the glove box I have an Audio/Video switch (Sony) with up to 4 inputs.
One set of cables is plugged in to the CD changer out, another input is to my GARMIN Nuvi GPS with MP3 Player, and the output is the other set of RCA cables running to the trunk and into the other set of RCA jacks (feeding to the AMP--masqueraded as the CD changer).
So I fired up the car, and turned to the CD changer with the SOURCe button on the stereo (with the AV switch to that input), and I heard the CDs playing. Then I switched to the other source (with the AV switch in the glove box) and there it was!! Best of all this was really cheap to do.
Note that if you use portable audio and power it with the car (cigarette lighter adapter) you will probably need a Ground Loop Insulator (I got one at Radio Shack for ~$16). If you use it's batteries--you're fine.
So there it is! Soooo much better than an FM modulator or Tape adapter (yuck!).... :thumbsup: and cheap to build!!!
If anyone has any questions--hit me up.