: I'm in the Home Stretch



Mud
07-28-07, 09:45 PM
First off, I want to thank this forum for the info that is provided, it has helped tremendously. I have asked questions and searched thru past posts as well, what a help.

A few weeks ago, I had posted about our new addition, this 86 FB
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1226/4329138/9121300/264265212.jpg

It's virtually original at 171K miles, except for basic maintenance, and that has been a real help. Nobody has monkeyed around with stuff. It ran OK, but needed some additional work, so here's what I've done. One note - get the factory service manual for your car - they are gold when it comes to working on it.
- Carb was rebuilt to factory specs, included the mixture solenoid lean/rich setting, lean idle screw, float setting etc.
- New choke pull-off, new TPS, new filter
- All vacuum lines replaced - about 10 miles of them
- New distributor cap/rotor, new plugs and wires
- New EGR valve and passages cleaned
- New O2 sensor
- New front shocks
- New front brake hoses, brake system flushed with fresh fluid
- Rear axle fluid change
- Tranny fluid and filter change
- Oil change with Auto-Rx treatment added
- Power locks and seats fixed (broken wire in door harness)
- Lots of misc stuff, bulbs, etc etc

Runs really nice, no issues at all. Now on to the exterior. I'm just waiting on the license filler panel so I can paint all the replacement fillers and then give the rest of a car a light buffing and waxing. Interior was almost new, just needed a shampoo and leather conditioner.

I can tell that the engine is getting a little tired but still has miles left. No smoke, but the timing varies a bit under the light which tells me that either the distributor or the timing chain is a bit worn. The auto-rx is very good for internal engine cleaning as well as removing deposits from the ring packs, it has proven itself to me on other vehicles. I also added a healthy dose of Marvel Mystery Oil (don't laugh!) to the gas, it's basically a solvent and good at cleaning fuel lines and the top end of the engine over time.

The only thing that I had seen when I got the car was the CEL, code 21, bad TPS. However, what was also happening is that the EGR valve was dead, evidenced by very high NoX readings in the last emission test. The engine was running very rich which also added lots of soot to the O2 sensor, so it was giving wacky readings. Fixing all these items resulted in a HUGE improvement in driveability. I noticed that upon initial startup the car would mark its territory with a big black soot spot, plus noticeable black smoke coming out the tailpipe when driving. All that is gone, except it took a few starts and drives to get the remaining crud out of the exhaust system. I think that the converter is happier now as well.

Sorry for the long post, I'm just very pleased with the results. Still tweaking here and there but looking forward to having it finished after the paintwork.

CaddyshackCadillac
07-28-07, 09:59 PM
Alot Of People Sware By This Stuff Called Seafoam You Should Look It Up I Hear It Does Wonders With Cleaning Out Excess Carbon Build Up And Replenishes Horsepower....

dkozloski
07-28-07, 11:24 PM
Alot Of People Sware By This Stuff Called Seafoam You Should Look It Up I Hear It Does Wonders With Cleaning Out Excess Carbon Build Up And Replenishes Horsepower....
Tap water will do the same thing.

Wheelman322
07-29-07, 05:32 AM
Looks good. I would run it till it dies and than make a project out of it. An 86 would be an easy 350/383 swap.

Mud
07-29-07, 11:45 AM
Looks good. I would run it till it dies and than make a project out of it. An 86 would be an easy 350/383 swap.

Agree 100% and very do-able. Fuel injected 350's are very plentiful and the computer controls are not a problem either. I would go ahead and install a 700R4 at the same time. However, I don't think that it will be anytime soon, that 307 is still running without any obvious symptoms of problems, just (like me) getting a little worn around the edges.

I'm familiar with seafoam/water/transmission fluid used as top end cleaners. Nothing wrong with them, I just prefer to do this on a more long-term basis rather than try to break crud out of there all at once. Same reason for using the auto-rx. I don't want to risk breaking a small hard chunk of carbon, sludge, etc loose and have it lodge somewhere where it should not be. By using the MMO and the auto-rx at the same time my intent is to allow these to clean both the lower and upper ends of the engines as well as the ring packs over a period of time by dissolving solids rather than knocking them loose.