: 86 Fleetwood - New Addition

07-07-07, 02:34 PM
Hello gents,
New to the forum due to the recent acquisition of an 86 Fleetwood Brougham. Our in-laws decided we needed another car to the mix so they gave us this car. Last one that we owned was a 79 with the 425ci engine - awesome car.

Some general info - this 86 has 171,000 miles and is in pretty good overall shape. It does have the prerequisite deteriorated urethance rear fender-to-bumper filler panels but everything else is intact. I found new filler panels for about $150 so I will go ahead and install/paint the new ones, hat eo have those holes in the back. Pic below is of the "good" end panel. Engine is the 307 with a recently rebuilt 200-4R tranny. Runs well but at a liesurely pace :) Interior is almost perfect no rips/tears/breaks - some cleaner and a carpet shampoo made it look brand new. I have always done my own resto work, engines, transmissions, etc so I am in the process of going through the car to see what's good and what's not. I'm glad that I kept all my q-jet stuff, since it has the version with the electronic controls. Paint is in good shape - I gave the car a good scrubbing and will follow with a light buff as well.

I did find a couple of things that I need to look into further - if you can help I would appreciate it.
First - power locks do not work, cannot hear any solenoids trying to work, etc. Cannot find where fuse/circuit breaker is located - was not marked in the fuse block.
Second - power seats do not work - same issue - cannot find where the fuse/breaker is located.

Jonas McFeely
07-07-07, 03:47 PM
There are 2 fuse boxes. Both are located in the same area, 1 is easy to get to,the other is not. There is the obvious one under the dash by the parking brake. Then there is the other one way up under the dash above the other fuse box. You have to take off the plastic panel under there (7mm socket) and then disconnect the wire block(the grey thing that all of the wires are going into, 10mm socket) From there, if you can access the other fuse panel.

Youre going to need a flashlight. And i hope youre limber,because its damn near impossible to weasel your way up under there.

I dread everytime a dime or screw falls in my cigarette lighter(happens more often than youd think) because it shorts, and its on the same circuit as the radio, and i have to do what i desribed above to change the fuse...

Beautiful Brougham by the way,i always liked yellow on yellow

07-07-07, 05:29 PM
argh - ABOVE the other fuse block? The first one was hard enough to get to!

Anyway, I appreciate the info. Time to stand on my head and see if I can reach it.


07-07-07, 10:51 PM
I need to go through and replace fuses in my Phaeton... I'm sure a few are gone. My chimes don't work, can anyone think of another cause for this?

Anyway, great looking Brougham. One of the first Cadillacs I fell in love with as a kid looked just like that, and was driven by an elegant lady named Mrs. White.

07-07-07, 11:03 PM
Sweet car, I dig that creamy yellow leather! Just a useless bit of info...1986 was the last year the seats had that design, they switched the base Brougham seats in 1987 to a vertical pleat. I like the 86 style more.

07-08-07, 08:09 AM
Classy ride! Love the color, and I agree with Chad, I like those seats better than mine.


07-08-07, 09:03 AM
Thank you for the comments and the info. The seats were one of the first things I noticed, I liked that sort of a sectional look.

All in all, it seems to be mechanically sound, here's the list (besides the seats/locks) and also what I intend to do.

- Check Engine light - I pulled a 21 code - shorted TPS sensor circuit. All of the harnesses and vacuum lines have luckily been left intact, so I should be able to trace issues like this. First thought is of course to replace the TPS switch itself if everything else appears to be in order.
- My wife noticed that there was black smoke (fuel) out the exhaust when accelerating and I noticed that the tailpipe is very sooty. I also checked the past emissions report and noticed that the NoX was barely under allowable, like about 5 points. I am going to go ahead and replace the EGR valve/solenoid since it directly affects the NoX levels. I will then see if this does anything for the rich fuel mix before looking at the q-jet.
- rear shocks are OK, front shocks are tired Monroes, will replace front shocks.
- engine oil has "generally" been changed but I follow a pretty strict maintenance schedule on all our vehicles. Filter was filthy on the last oil change, so this car will get the Auto-Rx treatment. I have used this stuff on several vehicles with great results - you can google auto-rx for details. I suspect that the ring packs may be a bit gummed up as well - this product has been effective in cleaning up engine internals/ring packs without acting like a solvent flush. I know I sound like a salesman but this stuff has proven itself with me.
- Air filter is new, so is fuel filter. However, I don't want to assume the fuel system/top end is 100% so I will use some Fuel Power (FP60 from Lube Control) in the gas to help clean out any accumulated varnish. The carb is a lot more forgiving than injectors, but I am mulling over installing a NAPA kit in the carb just to be sure I know what the condition is.
- Tranny fluid and filter will be changed.
- Both front brake hoses are cracked, so they will be replaced along with the single rear hose. Pads/shoes are still OK, but I will flush the entire system while I'm at it.
- Rear axle fluid will be changed - I do this every 50K miles on any rear-wheel drive vehicle I own.
- Drivers side mirror top is loose, looks like I need to remove mirror to fix, means interior door panel has to come off.
- Radio does not work - it has the AM/FM/CB which I am intending to replace with a new CD head unit. I will probably change out door/rear deck speakers and add a small amp/sub as well. Not intending to be a boombox, just have a good range of sound dynamics. I'll do this after I fix what needs fixing.

That's about it, other than checking light bulbs, etc. Not too bad to tell the truth - no real major problems. One of the front side urethane filler panels was also shot, so I made a metal replacement panel instead of buying a new plastic one. Fits up great and should look OEM after paint, I saved my template for whenever the other front side filler may go south. I did order the rear filler pieces so I can paint everything together.

Thanks again everyone.

07-09-07, 08:24 PM
Well. I got up under the dash but there was no additional fuseblock to be found above the primary one. There is another relay block to the left, but nothing above. I looked and poked and looked some more, there is nothing there. I did check the relays on the block, they were all OK.

I also pulled the driver side door handle to check the seat switches and they all appear to be intact (checked them for continuity). I could trace all the wiring back to below the seat except for a power feed (at least that is what I suspect it is), orange wire with black stripe and a black ground wire. All grounds are good but I could not trace the orange/black wire back below the dash.

My game plan is to run a direct temporary power feed from the battery to the orange/black wire to see if the seats will start working. I will do the same for the power locks which are also dead. If the temporary feed works, I may just go ahead and create a new permanent battery feed with circuit breaker/relay to avoid any issues. Wiring new circuits is not a problem, but for the life of me I cannot figure out where the seats/locks are getting their power from and why it is not accessible! I did pick up a factory service manual for an 86 FB so that may shed some light.

07-11-07, 11:09 PM
I also dig the cream color. Nice car.

07-12-07, 07:34 AM

Anybody happen to know the actual color? I looked at PPG webpage for 86 caddy colors and found a color called Sungold 3887 that looks right. I will need the color info to paint match the replacement front/rear fender fillers.

But then I checked the cowl tag and found this info:
522 AM6
54T D48

None of these come up as anything close to yellow on the PPG site for OEM codes except for the 54T which is Yellow Beige 3769. Don't know if that is for the vinyl top though.

I know that I can always get the paint store to color match but it would be nice to get this figured out. Anybody have an idea?

Jonas McFeely
07-12-07, 07:55 PM
1986 Brougham colors:

Cotillion White 11
Silver Frost 12
Adademy Gray 15
Sable Black 19
Gossamer Blue 25
Commodore Blue 31
Aspen Green 43
Sage Green 46
Chamois 54
Burlwood Brown 57
Bordeaux Red 79
Sandalwood 80
Charcoal Firemist 82
Cranberry Firemist 83
Corinthian Blue Firemist 85
Desert Frost Firemist 87
Autumn Maple Firemist 89

Pretty sure yours is Chamois

07-13-07, 06:49 PM
Ok, now that makes sense.

Many thanks!