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Is it worth spending the $$$

  • Maybe you should be saving gas

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2K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  SERvo 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello, first I can't spell... (please remember and put up with it please)

Been here awhile haven't talked much. Name is Kevin. I have a 1968 DeVille Conv. (F8291024). I bought it in 11/04 w/ 60k for 1,500. It looked good, ran good and I bought it and drove it home (105mi.) with no prop. I drove it on the 10day plate and drove it to the shop. Haven't seen it or touched it since. Some (base) work has been done. Everything (yes a/c) works, body is steight. Frame had some rust (holes) behind rear wheels.. Got repalcement NOS frame on ebay.

So thats where it's at. (Pic's to follow - have many)

What I wanna ask/talk about is where it's going...

I'd like:
solid 12sec. car (on motor)
22/24" rims
able to cruise all night (willing to deal - but no major worries)

I got the paint done for now (flat -ratrod-blk), I was thinking ostrich seating. Tan carpet.

The motor/frame swap is why I'm here. I'll need help - and I'm sure with a bunch else along the way.

I've done a few builds (some wild) and have all tools/trades needed. If I don't have it... I now someone who owes me something.. if not I can always owe them:bigroll:

I'm looking for any an all help. I mean all because everything is an idea..!

Budget... we'll see as it comes togther.. I'm ready to drop some coin.... as long as it's worth it. I'd would like to do it in steps and be able to enjoy it along the way

Remember: BAD ASS/ MEAN LOOK/ No EXCUSSES..

Thanks anyone who has an idea that could help.
 
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#5 ·
I prefer the stock look too. I love sleepers. I want my Brougham to look stock when im done,but with tons of power under the hood. The only thing that would be different on the outside would be C6 Z06 wheels and dual exhaust.I'd even leave the HT4100 badges. Interior would be stock except for a tach and a couple other guages.
 
#6 ·
I have a bunch of questions:
Motor: I have now (62k) is running great. Would you put it away and build an other. Not a big deal do to matching numbers don't count on these.. But I could drive what I have while building something else.

Tranny: Leave it (build it up) or switch to something else 700R for the over-drive. This goes back to the rear gear thing. I could go bigger in the rear and still cruise in it with a 700.... but not sure if it would hold up.

I need help with the math.... Who out there can figure this out. What does the car weigh, how much motor is needed for say a 12.2-4 run. It would take me atleast a weekend to get all this figured out. I know someone out there can do it up quick. Rear gears to keep the rps's right on the motor.

Most important... I want a solid runner. Very strong/very dependable.

Thanks to anyone about the math help.

I'll try and post pic's tonight. The rim's I wanna use are Fesler's 3pc.
http://www.feslerproductions.com/FeslerDesigns.htm
FS903 in the 22/24" size.

I bring up the size because I'm not sure if the 24 would fit, don't want it UP to much and the final gear size.... I hope some one out there follows me.

I know that this stuff really matters as to how the car will run. You need to know HP,RPM,GEAR,Weight...
 
#7 ·
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Sorry no pictures of the orig. car... Like I said It was in very good shape. I had it stripped down primed (grey) then reworked and put in flat black. Dash was taken apart to fix the a/c and replace the clock. EVERYTHING works... not easy to do. So there it is. Ready to go...
 
#8 ·
I have a 68 sdv and I rave about the quality and reliability. They are great cars.

Typically I'd give the "you'll never get your money back" response, because these are not high value cars and mods will prolly bring the value down.

But on the other hand, you got it dirt cheap and can do you own restoration. I say do it... you only live once.

Frankly to restore it to original would cost about the same anyway.
 
#9 ·
I have a tendency to be abrupt so please do not take offense to what I am about to say.

You will not get this car into the 11s on 22s, 24s or for that matter anything else. Of course since $$$$$$$=speed, an unlimited budget can get you just about anywhere you want to go. While the reason you wish to do this escapes me, it is your car and of course you can do anything you wish.

As information, I currently own a 1990 454SS pickup. After an expense of nearly $16,000.00 the truck runs in the low 12s. I have calculated the cost of getting into the 11s at about $3500.00 more which I am not willing to do because it involves tubbing the bed, back halfing the truck and installing a roll cage..

I want to keep it very streetable and dependable, which it currently is.

The above is strickly my opinion and of course, yours may vary. Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
 
#10 ·
As information: The mods include stroking the motor to 496 using Eagle innards, 781 highly modified heads, Vortech supercharger, 900 CFM throttle body with additional injector plate between TB an Edelbrock 3764 manifold. Jacobs ignition system and Hooker Supercomp long tube headers along with a Maxcool radiater and dual electric fans..

Running gear consists of a modified TH400 trans mated to a Gearvenders overdrive unit and a 373 14 bolt locking differential. Caltracs and BFG drag radials on 10 inch Weld draglite wheels.
 
#11 ·
I'm not looking to make $$ or restore it to orig. I could care less about that. It doesn't HAVE to get in the 12's but I really want to shoot for it. I'd think its do-able. As for the big tires... I live in S. FL and I hated it when I first started seeing it done.... It grew on me. I'll prob. go w/22's. I have a few guys I know who have "hi-tops" and I kinda like it.
It's a toy, I was born in 68.. I think the car is pretty cool, it'll be a driver (not everyday - but a bunch).

I haven't gone much into what I am planning to do, I just started the thread.

So back to my question of weight/hp needed and gear ratio... any help??

I've also spent a bit of time looking into this and surfed a bunch. Just thought I'd get some opions on the whole build


Have a great night all
k
 
#12 ·
OK, I'm looking to get in the 12's, not 11's and thats a BIG difference. I'm sorry, I very much disagree with you on being able to get it that fast. Why I'm doing it... prob. the same reason you put $$ in that truck. Its what you wanted.

ALSO for the record... I love to ster-up trouble/be-wise and talk crap. Nothing anyone will say to me will hurt (to much) my feelings. So feel free. I WOULD like to also use this post to help me with my build. If your gonna just mess around (not that you did at all) keep it to a post or two.

I've build 4 very fast cars to date, a Pimped out 71 Airstream trailer, and built my first 9sec. NOS bike when I was 20. All that being said.. I don't know anymore then the next guy. Lets have some fun.
 
#14 ·
"ugly ass rims"... I laughed for a bit on your beatn' around the bush about how you feel.

I think I'm going to leave this thread and just ask specific questions so as not to bore everyone.

I got the weight of the car..

Does anyone know of anything special about the tranny or is it a standard turbo400??

Thanks
 
#15 ·
I think Your ****in Crazy.......... But I like............
The rims how ever, I would not go with those. They got to way a ton. One of the best ways to get speed is to reduce your rotational mass. As the RPM's increase the weigh of the rotating object (your rims) grow exponetionally. I really liked the FS901's and logically they should be lighter.

If I were you, no matter what engine you build up, I would focus on reducing the weight of all the rotating parts (Crank Shaft, Flywheel, Drive shaft Pulleys etc.)

As for can it be done? Hell Yeah.
Should it be done? Hell Yeah

You should check Out some B&M Tranny's your gonna need something bullet proof

Born & Raised In The County Of DADE
"305"
 
#16 ·
The rotational mass thing is exactly what I was gonna bring up while reading through this. You could use those wheels, sure, but you'd have to build the motor that much more to compensate for the added weight. Plus the tranny would more likely to grenade trying to rotate so much weight.

Lightening the body up would help...sound deadening material, etc. You know all about that though since you have a background in building racers it sounds like.

Are you set on an all-motor setup or is nitrous a potential for the drag strip? Properly set up, Torque-in-a-bottle could get you the 1/4 mile numbers you're looking for while maintaining the streetability when cruising. Less wear and tear on the motor when strolling around town and it's always there if you need it. I know jack crap about nitrous on Caddy motors specifically, but it's a thought.

I say rock on, man! I'd love to see this project happen. BTW, I'm doing a flat black on my '68 too, what paint did you use if you don't mind me asking?

Ryan
 
#17 ·
SERvo....
The first time I striped it down I used a urethane primer (grey pictures), then when I came up with the flat black idea I went over the whole car (it had sat for @ yr out side and re-shot it in Dupont 90LF primer. I haven't done anything else yet. I'm not sure what to do to it. I've read that I should clear it with a matte. I was trying to find out what Harley does on there flat black NightTrain bikes... I like there look and figure they worked out the bugs.

The new frame I have was sandblasted and coated with POR-15. I've used it once before on a trailer and its very tough stuff.

If you look at last months DUB's mag. there is a new CL55 tricked out with a flat paint job. I think people are getting into it more and more.

To be honest I would like a DEEP clean black but I'm just not good enough to do it right. The car is soooo long it has to be right or it'll look WRONG. Maybe someday down the line after I play with it for awhile.
 
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