: Swapping heads 94 -> 96



eldorado1
04-07-04, 08:05 PM
Since it seems nobody wants my engine, I thought I would check other avenues... I know the 96 intake won't work on a 94 without drilling and tapping new holes (don't want to deal with that), so are the 96 heads a direct swap on the 94? (So I can use the 96 intake) btw - how much work am I looking at? Thanks!

dloch
04-08-04, 12:09 PM
Since it seems nobody wants my engine, I thought I would check other avenues... I know the 96 intake won't work on a 94 without drilling and tapping new holes (don't want to deal with that), so are the 96 heads a direct swap on the 94? (So I can use the 96 intake) btw - how much work am I looking at? Thanks!
Wouldn't it be easier to just drill the additional holes? The heads from a 96 are a direct swap. If you are going to try and sell the engine off as a 96 you will also need to drill and tap a boss in the valley to accept the knock sensor as that was the new mounting location for 96 +.

eldorado1
04-08-04, 12:14 PM
Wouldn't it be easier to just drill the additional holes? The heads from a 96 are a direct swap. If you are going to try and sell the engine off as a 96 you will also need to drill and tap a boss in the valley to accept the knock sensor as that was the new mounting location for 96 +.
Drilling holes in my head (hahaha) kinda scares me... I'm a bit afraid of it not going in straight, accidentally dropping chips into the engine, or drilling into something I shouldn't... How much is a intake gasket and head gasket kit for a 96?

dloch
04-08-04, 12:29 PM
Drilling holes in my head (hahaha) kinda scares me... I'm a bit afraid of it not going in straight, accidentally dropping chips into the engine, or drilling into something I shouldn't... How much is a intake gasket and head gasket kit for a 96?
I should preface this, you would need to drill and tap the 94 heads to accept the 96 intake. You need to add 3 additional holes per head, two of which you can drill straight through and the third would need to be short and tapped with a bottom tap. The thread size is 6mm x 1.00, the drill size is a #9.

What is it that you are trying to do by the way? I may have missed something in another post.

eldorado1
04-08-04, 02:06 PM
I should preface this, you would need to drill and tap the 94 heads to accept the 96 intake. You need to add 3 additional holes per head, two of which you can drill straight through and the third would need to be short and tapped with a bottom tap. The thread size is 6mm x 1.00, the drill size is a #9.

What is it that you are trying to do by the way? I may have missed something in another post.
Oh wow, thanks for the info! Are the 'straight through' holes like on an already existing tang/flange or something? That doesn't sound so bad. Basically, I want to run a Holley 950 for some performance mods, and I guess it only works on the 95+ engine. Is the intake the only difference between the engines? How are the sensors?

dloch
04-08-04, 02:49 PM
Oh wow, thanks for the info! Are the 'straight through' holes like on an already existing tang/flange or something? That doesn't sound so bad. Basically, I want to run a Holley 950 for some performance mods, and I guess it only works on the 95+ engine. Is the intake the only difference between the engines? How are the sensors?
Of the three additional holes two are straight through. One is in the center and one toward the front of the engine. The third is at the back directly above the water crossover port in the head, that should be the blind hole. If you drilled through you would need to be sure you put thread sealant on the bolt that went through that hole so you wouldn't have coolant wick up the threads. Also if you were to pull the manifold you would need to drain the cooling system prior to removing the intake.

eldorado1
04-08-04, 07:24 PM
Of the three additional holes two are straight through. One is in the center and one toward the front of the engine. The third is at the back directly above the water crossover port in the head, that should be the blind hole. If you drilled through you would need to be sure you put thread sealant on the bolt that went through that hole so you wouldn't have coolant wick up the threads. Also if you were to pull the manifold you would need to drain the cooling system prior to removing the intake.
Thanks for the info. I don't suppose you know how far down I can safely drill for that last one? And the "front" of the engine is the serpentine side, correct?

dloch
04-08-04, 07:37 PM
Thanks for the info. I don't suppose you know how far down I can safely drill for that last one? And the "front" of the engine is the serpentine side, correct?
The front is the serpentine side yes. How far you can drill down......... Well I believe the casting thickness is about .700 right there but where you are drilling is a pick-up point for the intake seal, I can't tell you how deep that is until I get home and mic the heads I have. I need to drill and tap mine so I will be able to get that info for you when I do it. Like I said worse case senerio is you drill through and you need to put sealant on the bolt. My other thought was to drill through tap it through and put JB Weld on the bottom side to seal it.

Either way it's a cheaper solution than changing heads to 96 + heads.

Are you talking to CHRFAB with regards to an intake? What are you going to do about the ingition?

eldorado1
04-08-04, 09:54 PM
The front is the serpentine side yes. How far you can drill down......... Well I believe the casting thickness is about .700 right there but where you are drilling is a pick-up point for the intake seal, I can't tell you how deep that is until I get home and mic the heads I have. I need to drill and tap mine so I will be able to get that info for you when I do it. Like I said worse case senerio is you drill through and you need to put sealant on the bolt. My other thought was to drill through tap it through and put JB Weld on the bottom side to seal it.

Either way it's a cheaper solution than changing heads to 96 + heads.

Are you talking to CHRFAB with regards to an intake? What are you going to do about the ingition?
Good deal. So you're doing the same thing then? Putting a 94 engine into your 97 or something? :) The intake I can probably pick up used at a local yard... the holley controls ignition too, not sure what you're talking about?? :hmm:

dloch
04-09-04, 11:12 AM
Good deal. So you're doing the same thing then? Putting a 94 engine into your 97 or something? :) The intake I can probably pick up used at a local yard... the holley controls ignition too, not sure what you're talking about?? :hmm:
Yes it seems I have a mix and match deal with the spare motor I have. I can deal with it though. The motor in the car has a leaking head gasket so I'm going to swap motors with one that I have gone through to lessen the down time. At the same time I'm changing my torque converter to a 3k stall to enhance the lower RPM range of the motor. :p

Are you putting a carb on your engine or are you changing the engine management system to a holley system? I guess I'm lost as to what you end results are going to be.

eldorado1
04-09-04, 11:47 AM
Yes it seems I have a mix and match deal with the spare motor I have. I can deal with it though. The motor in the car has a leaking head gasket so I'm going to swap motors with one that I have gone through to lessen the down time. At the same time I'm changing my torque converter to a 3k stall to enhance the lower RPM range of the motor. :p

Are you putting a carb on your engine or are you changing the engine management system to a holley system? I guess I'm lost as to what you end results are going to be.
No, I hate carbs. Basically the holley will be just like before (FI), but give me infinite control over the engine's fuel map and other parameters. Tell me more about this torque converter - I didn't even know they made them for this app... Isn't the stock converter like a 2400 stall? (just a guess, I don't know) Doing any other upgrades?

dloch
04-09-04, 01:07 PM
No, I hate carbs. Basically the holley will be just like before (FI), but give me infinite control over the engine's fuel map and other parameters. Tell me more about this torque converter - I didn't even know they made them for this app... Isn't the stock converter like a 2400 stall? (just a guess, I don't know) Doing any other upgrades?
I don't believe the stock is anywhere close to 2400. The converter is new, not an adjusted factory converter. It will still have the lock-up feature as well.

I've also altered the cam timing somewhat.

With the Holley unit, I assume you are using the commander 950 unit, correct? Do you have a base fuel and timing map already?

eldorado1
04-09-04, 01:17 PM
I don't believe the stock is anywhere close to 2400. The converter is new, not an adjusted factory converter. It will still have the lock-up feature as well.

I've also altered the cam timing somewhat.

With the Holley unit, I assume you are using the commander 950 unit, correct? Do you have a base fuel and timing map already?
So where'd you get the converter? :) Did you redrill the cam sprockets, or go for a regrind or something? Yep. Commander 950. I haven't bought it yet, so no, I don't have any base maps :)

dloch
04-09-04, 02:27 PM
So where'd you get the converter? :) Did you redrill the cam sprockets, or go for a regrind or something? Yep. Commander 950. I haven't bought it yet, so no, I don't have any base maps :)
Converter is coming from Yank. Drilled sprockets.

How are you going sync the ignition and the injectors if you are going sequential?

eldorado1
04-09-04, 03:21 PM
Converter is coming from Yank. Drilled sprockets.

How are you going sync the ignition and the injectors if you are going sequential?
Well, that's one thing I have to give up. The holley alternates firing one bank of injectors and the other. I think it's calld batch-fire (?)