: Oil leak is from pan



jgr7
04-07-04, 01:24 AM
Ok I changed the oil filter adapter O-Rings and the pan is for sure where my oil leak is comming from. I can see my fresh clean oil start oozing from between the bottom of the block extension and the pan. I cleaned it off really good and started it up after the oil change and it just starts comming right out and drips on the floor from about 4-5 places. Could I have something causing pressure inside the engine causing it to push the oil out? I checked the PCV valve and it is ok. I put in 7 qts with filter so its not over full. Just in case any one is going to do the oil filter adapter o-rings make sure that your parts guy gives you 2 o-rings not one like mine did:want: found out after I had it tore apart with the car half way out of the garage at 8:30 pm.

I got my Helms manuals today now maybe I can figure out just what the heck I'm doing LOL. I've cleaned the phenolic spacer plates, TB, new air filter, gas filter,plugs and wires. Still have to change the Trans fluid, anti-freeze, t-stat and fix drivers window, it won't go up or down or even make any kind of noise, think I'll start with the switch.
Found a rear tail light assy brand new for $91 + tax from a guy that suppiles parts that the dealer says are discontinued, I guess he buys up large lots of this stuff and resells it. junk yard wanted $125 for used.

In case any one missed it I got this 94 eldorado from my mother in-law for $1200 with 135k miles dark green with the chrome alloys with the cadillac emblom in the center of them. The car has never been in a wreck and she was the original owner it is very clean. She got tired of the car and hated the oil leak, however I found out that she has been over filling the oil by as much as a quart, thats what made it leak so much I guess, when I let it get down to the add line it only drips a little when I park, like maybe 4-5 drops when I first park.
Sorry to carry on so long but I really like this car and am having fun working on it, also this is the best car forum site I have found. Keep up the good work and info:worship:
Jeff

Robert Brandtjen
04-21-04, 02:22 PM
If you don't want to change the pan gasket, try tightening the bolts some what and see if that helps. In days gone by, GMs used to need that at 7 to 10 years of age - but I'm talking 70's here since I have no experience with GM's since then until now.

dloch
04-21-04, 02:44 PM
Look at your oil leak very carefully... If you look at where the oil pan bolts to the bottom of the lower case half you will also see what looks like a plate that is about a 1/4" thick that is between the oilpan and the lower case half. Does the leak appear to be coming from the top of this plate, which would be between the lower case half and the plate, or, be the plate and the oil pan itself?

jgr7
04-22-04, 12:17 AM
dloch, I'll look again and see if I can get a digital picture to post.

By the way what web site do you guys use to host pics for the board?
Jeff

jgr7
05-01-04, 05:09 PM
dloch, you are correct it is comming from the top of that 1/4" plate, still don't think it can be fixed without major work.

Jeff

Lawrence
05-02-04, 03:46 AM
dloch, you are correct it is comming from the top of that 1/4" plate, still don't think it can be fixed without major work.

Jeff


The only thing you can try is to thoroughly clean the area (go as far as you can in either direction) with brake fluid cleaner. Thoroughly dry (compressed air if available) and try a heavy external coat of RTV. After you get the RTV on there you could try to pull a deep vacume in the motor to try and pull some in at the leak area, but this is iffy. It will take a pretty high volume pump to get enough vacume to work. If you do get it to draw in some RTV, easy does it. About as soon as you see it has taken some cut the vacume. You don't want to block any passages in there. And if it does take some in add some more over that area. Thats it. If it still leaks the motor HAS to come out, or the cradle down.

You might also try to seal up the oil pan bolts in the area. There was A TSB about some of them having some casting porousity and leaking from the bolt holes. You take the bolts out, clean with brake cleaner, dry, and reinstall the bolt with Permatex thread sealant. Again a long shot, but maybe.

Mine did the same thing. Pulled the motor.

dloch
05-03-04, 11:41 AM
dloch, you are correct it is comming from the top of that 1/4" plate, still don't think it can be fixed without major work.

Jeff
That is the oil manifold. It routed pressurized oil to the mains and pretty much everything else that requires oil. It (the manifold) has a a silicone seal between it and the lower case half, from your discription that seal has failed on the outside edge. You can try what Lawrence has suggested to see if you can stop it our you will need to remove the motor to fix it correctly.

jgr7
05-04-04, 01:34 AM
dloch, Lawrence, thanks, if I loosen all the pan bolts I can get to and really clean this area with brake klean can I open this area up a little and put a small bead of RTV glue in there. Or do you think I would just make the rest of this manifold leak.
Jeff

Lawrence
05-04-04, 02:45 AM
dloch, Lawrence, thanks, if I loosen all the pan bolts I can get to and really clean this area with brake klean can I open this area up a little and put a small bead of RTV glue in there. Or do you think I would just make the rest of this manifold leak.
Jeff
It won't do you any good to loosen the oil pan bolts as the oil manifold has other bolts holding it inside the pan. You might try to make sure they are tight. 89 in lbs is all it takes, any more won't do any good because it is a metal to metal fit (with a captive seal).

I have to say again this is a long shot, but I suppose worth a try.

Good Luck!

jgr7
05-04-04, 09:35 AM
Thanks, all the bolts are tight. I will have to see how much to fix. Would you have the head gaskets replaced and heads timeserted at 136k if you had the engine out?

Jeff

dloch
05-04-04, 11:10 AM
Thanks, all the bolts are tight. I will have to see how much to fix. Would you have the head gaskets replaced and heads timeserted at 136k if you had the engine out?

JeffDo you like the car alot? If it were me and I was going to drop the cradle or pull the engine to fix the oil leak I would also change the head gaskets and and timesert the block.

You will also no doubt find that the plastic cover for the HVAC system in the engine compartment is falling apart due to the heat from the rear exhaust manifold, I would suggest you replace that when the engine is out of the car. My engine is out now, mine wasn't bad but I already had a new one so I replaced it. I also covered the lower half of it with Dynomat Extreme to reflect the heat away from it.

I don't know about Lawrence but most of the reuseable gaskets for the intake and cooling manifold were scrap although I bought new ones anyways.

Good luck, if we can help in any way let us know.

For added fun..... change the torque converter to something with a higher stall....

Lawrence
05-04-04, 02:57 PM
Thanks, all the bolts are tight. I will have to see how much to fix. Would you have the head gaskets replaced and heads timeserted at 136k if you had the engine out?

JeffI agree with dloch. Yes, yes, yes! Do everything while you are there. It is very easy with the engine on a stand. Replace any gasket or seal that you could not get to with the engine in the car, unless of course it is already obviously bad.

Yes Dennis, most of my reusable seals were shot too. At least the critcal ones. Of course the oil manifold plate seals were gone, being the second biggest contributer to my leak, after the head gasket. But yes, the crossover seals, intake seals, and oil pan seal were shot as well. The case half seal looked OK but did leak. I would add that the croosover gasket "stuck" to the block and came apart when removed. Really the only gaskets I could have reused was the timing cover gasket, which I didn't, and the water pump drive seal and the valve cover gaskets, which I did reuse.

And yes do the HVAC box too. Even if it looks good, it won't for much longer and it cant be replaced with the engine in the car. Also service the evaporator while there. Do a search, there is a alot posted on this already.

When/if you get that far post back with any questions.

jgr7
05-04-04, 03:00 PM
Thanks for the info.:)

Jeff