: Need Help! Gc Install!!



LV_V
06-14-07, 01:26 AM
Alright, I am about to kill someone, this Ground Control kit install is so F'd I cannot even begin to describe. I have spent 3 hours on the right rear alone. The process like it should have went, took 30 minutes. The past 2.5 hours have been spent pulling it apart twice trying to figure out why I have over 1/2" of gap between the spring and the upper perch. First off, the upper perch's bolt that was included was waaay too long if I follow the GC directions and put the "shallow cup" upwards. I did so, but had to use a washer on the lower end of the upper spring perch so that bolt did not hit the metal on the upper side (it appears to be almost an inch too long).

The worst part: when the cradle is bolted back up and the jack is let down so there is no upward force on any part of the suspension or cradle, there is over 1/2" between the spring and upper perch! What did I do wrong?? This is F'ing ridiculous! Someone please help!!!

BTW - I did add just over 1/8" of washers between the shock's pilow mount and the GC urethane bushing, EXACTLY as written in the "Ground Control Clunk" thread.

:rant2: :want: :mad:

LV_V
06-14-07, 01:32 AM
Oh and by the way, my rear spring perch is adjusted so that about 1 thread is showing on the top.

LV_V
06-14-07, 03:59 AM
So I got it all back together, rear left and right. I ended up adjusting the upper spring perch to a little more than half way down the threads; this was barely past the point where the spring would be loose when reattaching the lower shock bolt.

Low and behold: the thing sits at the same height, maybe a hair HIGHER than when I started. WTF. Someone give me some F'in insight into this problem before I hurt someone.

rand49er
06-14-07, 06:28 AM
Yeah, the spring rattles around in there till you set it down off the jack ... kinda unnerving, isn't it? I'd adjust the collar back so that there's only a thread or two showing at the top and tighten it down.

Don't know what to tell you about that long bolt. Sounds like you did the 1/8" washers correctly, though.

The rears are the easy ones; the fronts are a PITA. What's worse, the GC directions (if you'd call them that) are incredibly worthless ... you're going to need ronr's thread (I think that's the FAQ, now) to do it.

Keep coming back here if you help or moral support. Good luck!

Feffman
06-14-07, 07:50 AM
LV V:

Here's the link to REAL instructions for the GC install.

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/gcinstall/index.html

Stay cool, it actually does work good despite some warts. If you are a drinking man, 1-2 beers per corner is helpful! :) YOu are going ot LOVE the front install.

Feff
www.MVPTrackTime.com

thebigjimsho
06-14-07, 10:24 AM
Kudos to you for doing this yourself. I paid $300 to have a shop do it...

Seattle CTS-V
06-14-07, 12:33 PM
^^same here. I know what battles to take on myself and which to pass on to a mechanic.

ZEUSROTTY
06-14-07, 01:29 PM
I just finished mine yesterday... The backs were a piece of cake... And the bolts are to long... But once you get it in there and lower it, it makes sense.... Also, def go to the last thread... It wont lower it untill the next day... It has to have time to settle... Fronts were actually easier, untill I got to the sway bars, and then I found out Hotchkins didnt send me one of the spacer blocks... Waiting for that now.

LV_V
06-14-07, 01:53 PM
Well I drove it to work this morning and I have to say, even though it is not too pretty sitting up at stock height, my launches and hard acceleration around corners with only the rears in is much improved. It doesn't squat as bad and feels like it has much more positive traction through hard corners.

However, it HAS to be lowered. It looks stupid with 255 40 18 tires. I need to close those fender gaps!

So rand49er, you're saying that there will be a gap between the top of the spring and the upper spring perch until the weight of the car is put back down to the ground with the wheels on? I am afraid that, however rare it may be, that if my suspension unloads the spring could possibly fall out? Will it not clunk/rattle around? What was the point of the 1/8" washers on top of the shock then?

thebigjimsho
06-14-07, 02:46 PM
Yeah, the spring just floating around there freaked me out as well. But the spring is totally seperate from the strut. And that strut still needs the washer. I'm finding I need a thicker/another washer in the RR.

LV_V
06-14-07, 04:07 PM
Yeah, the spring just floating around there freaked me out as well. But the spring is totally seperate from the strut. And that strut still needs the washer. I'm finding I need a thicker/another washer in the RR.
I actually used 2 washers on each side, just dug through the box for four of the thinnest washers. On the Clunk Be Gone thread someone said they needed 3/4" ID washers, but I took the GC parts with me to Home Depot for an exact fit. I found that 5/8" fit perfect. Two thin washers stacked took out all slack plus stuck up ~1mm extra (hard to explain in words), which I am sure was also taken up when I torqued down the top nut that compressed the rubber pieces.

I can't get over the fact that the spring just needs to flop around in there until the weight of the car is put onto it. Makes it seem like it was engineered without logic... My mind was spinning while I sat there examining it until I just said F it, and lowered the upper spring mount to the point where there was no slop. Oh well, another project for tonight!

ZEUSROTTY
06-14-07, 06:35 PM
Like i said, it wont lower right away anyway... It takes a good day for the shocks to level...

LV_V
06-14-07, 07:35 PM
Like i said, it wont lower right away anyway... It takes a good day for the shocks to level...
Cool cool. I am just itching to get out of work and get back to the garage to finish up/tweak this install!!