: Guide to Head Gasket Replacement on 98 cars.



JC316
06-13-07, 04:28 PM
I will do this in two sections. Subframe removal and engine teardown.

1. Drain all of the fluids.

2. Remove the radiator/AC Condenser/Fan assembly by removing the two 10mm bolts holding the top clamps on, and pulling it up. Make sure that the tranny cooler lines are removed and the A/C System is discharged. (Note, this step is not necessary, but VERY helpful.)

3. Disconnect the fuel lines with a fuel line remover.

4. Disconnect the cruise control and throttle cable.

5. Disconnect the vacum lines to the power brake booster and EGR systems.

6. Disconnect the wiring harness from the bottom of the power distribution box. Also disconnect the wires on the firewall side of the engine as well as the connectors going to the struts. There is also a loom near the water resovouir that needs to be disconnected.

7. Disconnect the tail pipe under the car by removing 4 13mm bolts.

8. Disconnect the steering shaft by sliding the "Boot" up and taking the 11mm bolt out. It can be accessed from the drivers wheel well.

9. Disconnect the brake lines from the wheels, the traction control computer and the back connect. You can find the back connect just behind the subframe on the passenger side.

10. With the car on the ground, use a jack with a piece of wood to go across the subframe to hold it. Remove the 6 subframe bolts and two motor mount nuts. You can find the nuts in the wheel wells. Also remove the 6 strut nuts from the tower area of the engine bay.

11. The entire subframe is now loose, so you have to lift the body. I used an A frame with an engine hoist. I wrapped around the lower radiator brace with the hoist chain and lifted from there. I didn't have to remove the hood, but I did remove the grill.

12. With the body lifted out of the way and some help, you can roll the assmebly from under the car to your work area. I used some jackstands to support the car as well as the sub frame.


Head Replacement. To come later tonight.

urbanski
06-13-07, 04:54 PM
we appreciate your efforts posting this help :)

zonie77
06-24-07, 06:53 AM
Concerning your step #9. If you hang the rotors and ABS module from the body you do not have to disconnect your brake lines. Which will save bleeding the brakes when you reassemble.

JC316
06-24-07, 09:59 PM
Concerning your step #9. If you hang the rotors and ABS module from the body you do not have to disconnect your brake lines. Which will save bleeding the brakes when you reassemble.

Good idea for alternate. I simply didn't have the room to do it. I found it was easier to just disconnect em.

ktan
12-18-07, 02:39 AM
can you post more on #2? since you said it is not necessary, does this mean that you will be removing the the compressor instead? I currently have a 99 STS on the lift and trying to remove the block for headgasket and timesert. I dont really want to remove the a/c as its at a shop and i hear the refrigerant is toxic. I usually work on acura nsx's and its as simple as unbolting the compressor and moving it out of the way. wondering if this is so on this car also, thanks for the help.

urbanski
12-18-07, 06:13 AM
can you post more on #2? since you said it is not necessary, does this mean that you will be removing the the compressor instead? I currently have a 99 STS on the lift and trying to remove the block for headgasket and timesert. I dont really want to remove the a/c as its at a shop and i hear the refrigerant is toxic. I usually work on acura nsx's and its as simple as unbolting the compressor and moving it out of the way. wondering if this is so on this car also, thanks for the help.

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