: Kooks Headers install Need help



IownaCTS-V
06-06-07, 08:32 PM
I have installed the passenger side kooks header and now I cannot for the lifr of me get the driver side header past the steering linkage! Does anyone know any tricks on this one? Can do anything with the steering linkage?

Thanks!

The Tony Show
06-06-07, 08:37 PM
Unbolt the steering linkage and move it slightly. I recommend marking it to be sure you don't knock your wheel off center.

IownaCTS-V
06-06-07, 08:45 PM
Where did you unbolt from? Bottom, middle, or top?

Venomous-V
06-06-07, 08:52 PM
theres a bolt that holds the two shafts of the steering column. unbolt it and pull them apart. Its kinda like a sleeve. do it from under the car.

IownaCTS-V
06-06-07, 09:19 PM
Thank you Both! It worked great!

rand49er
06-06-07, 09:19 PM
theres a bolt that holds the two shafts of the steering column. unbolt it and pull them apart. Its kinda like a sleeve. do it from under the car.:yeah:

Disconnecting the steering shaft was key to getting the left side in. Once you spot it, it takes all of 90 sec to undo the bolts and swing the linkage aside. As I recall, it's like two flanges that come together there (but it's been over a year since I did it).

Watch out for that dipstick reinstall!

CadiBlk
01-30-11, 07:40 PM
FROM THE DEPTHS!

I took the two bolts out of the linkage, but I was only able to move the collar/sleeve a tiny amount and it wasn't enough to get it apart. Am I doing it wrong? Any advice? Thanks in advance.

CancerJCC
01-30-11, 10:09 PM
FROM THE DEPTHS!

I took the two bolts out of the linkage, but I was only able to move the collar/sleeve a tiny amount and it wasn't enough to get it apart. Am I doing it wrong? Any advice? Thanks in advance.

I can't help you exactly but I can tell you what Tony said is true. Don't let your wheel go spinning around as you will damage the air bag clock spring and it will ruin your day.

CadiBlk
01-30-11, 10:24 PM
Steering wheel is locked and shaft is marked.

So you guys take the two bolts out that are towards the top or you take the single bolt out of the bottom below the Ujoint? I tried the bottom one, but can't get to that fker from under the car. Might be able to get it better with the wheel off, but my car is in the air and I don't have an impact to take it off while up. With the two bolts out, does the collar move or can I pull out of the shafts out? I feel like I am missing something simple.

rand49er
01-30-11, 10:25 PM
Yeah what Cancer said. (Glad I didn't know that at the time or I might've needed valium to go through with it.)

If taking those bolts out didn't allow the steering shaft components to move out of the way enough, I'm not sure what to suggest at this point. Maybe reconnecting the steering shaft and then rotating it 90 or 180 degrees and try disconnecting it again to see if the headers clear with that configuration might help. Don't know what else to tell you. Post up your progress (or lack thereof) when you try it.

darkman
01-30-11, 10:37 PM
See attached.

CadiBlk
01-30-11, 10:44 PM
You guys got me straight paranoid that my wheel is going to move. Having the key out and it locked will keep it where it needs to be, right? Or will it come unlocked once I get this shaft apart? NIGHTMARES when I fall asleep tonight.

But, I haven't gotten that far yet. I can't get the shaft apart to move it yet. I tried tapping the collar lightly with a hammer up and down trying to move it. You move it up or down when the bolts are out? I'll take some pics tomorrow and you guys can enlighten me.

Nice thing is that the gloves have kept my knuckles blood free. Mounts should be here tomorrow and I'm looking forward to have a normal feeling car again.

CadiBlk
01-30-11, 10:51 PM
Darkman, I knew you had the goods.

Studying those PDFs, so there is a bolt under the rubber boot above the ujoint near the steering rack? I didn't move the boot when I was under there. Also, what can I stick in that hole under the steering wheel to lock it. Sadly my tool collection doesn't include a J42640 Steering Column Anti-Rotation Pin. :)

CadiBlk
01-30-11, 10:52 PM
Laggy server double poast.

darkman
01-30-11, 11:13 PM
Darkman, I knew you had the goods.

Studying those PDFs, so there is a bolt under the rubber boot above the ujoint near the steering rack? I didn't move the boot when I was under there. Also, what can I stick in that hole under the steering wheel to lock it. Sadly my tool collection doesn't include a J42640 Steering Column Anti-Rotation Pin. :)

I have not done this particular task so I am not positive, but I think the deal with the steering is just a matter of not moving it. Those that have had trouble simply forgot the steering shaft was unbolted and moved the steering wheel getting in and out of the car. If that is the case, you'll being fine if you get the shaft loose, install the header, and immediately reattach the shaft.

CancerJCC
01-31-11, 12:28 PM
This is from my DIY SWPS install thread but is the bolt I removed to allow the column to come out. Not sure if it will help your header install but I thought it couldn't hurt to post. And don't worry about your clock spring, just don't allow the wheel to rotate a few turns and not realize it.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/steeringbolt.jpg

shadybx7
01-31-11, 12:49 PM
yep/\ thats the bolt.. the shaft will slide back up into the steering column once its unbolted.. it feels almost hydrolic once it does start to retract into the firewall.. just coerce it a little. dont need to be to paranoid about the wheel moving while its unbloted just dont be sloppy..what you really need to think about the steeringshafts clearance with the primary runners.. YOU should dent them slightly to create more clearance.. i feel like every set of long tubes on the market has this issue..

bottom line:
1.take proper precautions for the heat that LT generate. IT will over heat other components and could create problems down the line... like the fabled alternator line
2. If you dont clearance the LTs you will have to grind down the linkage bolt or get a new shorter bolt.. IF you dont you will feel the feedback of the headers rubbing on theping those nub of the bolt...
3. i think you said youre changing the MM now.. good idea.. do it all in one shot while the headers are out

CadiBlk
01-31-11, 05:14 PM
Thanks for the picture. I took that bolt out and tried moving the collar, I didn't try moving the top portion of the shaft. I'll get to that here in a bit. Sucky thing is that I am not installing headers, I'm trying to get them out so I can install my new motor mounts. :\

I didn't do the header install initially because when I got them I was living in an apartment in Florida and my apartment complex wouldn't let me do it in the parking lot. Not that I really wanted to do it when it was 100 degrees out and the asphalt was well above that. As for the heat with the headers, I've got things well taken care of. Thanks for the tips though, good for folks reading this in the future. Shortly after having it done I noticed the alternator cable was resting nicely on one of the primaries. I bought a box of zipties and went to town under there. I was a little peeved about it too because I paid to have the work done. They twisted the shit out of my O2 sensor wire too. Don't know why they didn't screw the sensor in and then plug it in...

CadiBlk
01-31-11, 05:23 PM
P.S. CancerJCC, you were supposed to be helping me... I was forced to do it alone and drinking your half of the beer didn't help things. :)

Wife asked me when I was walking out to the garage, "How long is this going to take?"
Me, "About 6 beers." Because I didn't have my mounts until today, so I was just going to disassemble everything.

I was wrong.

shadybx7
01-31-11, 07:52 PM
good luck.. yea that what i hate about not doing thing myself. paying for them to do a halfass job. i Did the headers all by my lonesome and had a shop do the Motormounts :banghead: Way to much $$$ spent on labor+ they did a terrible job putting the exhaust back on which resulted in a leak and me haveing to spend more $$.. i really should of done them myself when the headers were out..

p.s.
cancerjcc.. next time your in Sfla please change my SWPS.. my abs and TC are gone

CadiBlk
01-31-11, 10:24 PM
Got that linkage to move. I was doing the right thing, just was't pushing hard enough. Once I broke the small rust bond the linkage moved easily. Advice was spot on. Two bolts out of the linkage, push the top part up until you can separate the two pieces. Move the bottom piece out of the way and the header slip and slides right out/in.

CancerJCC
01-31-11, 10:59 PM
P.S. CancerJCC, you were supposed to be helping me... I was forced to do it alone and drinking your half of the beer didn't help things. :)

Wife asked me when I was walking out to the garage, "How long is this going to take?"
Me, "About 6 beers." Because I didn't have my mounts until today, so I was just going to disassemble everything.

I was wrong.

Damn brother I am sorry I missed out on that beer! Lol at your drinking my half hurting your progress. I honestly don't know if I could have though. Between 18 credits my last semester here and trying to keep up on my own beer drinking...:) Not much time for the car.



good luck.. yea that what i hate about not doing thing myself. paying for them to do a halfass job. i Did the headers all by my lonesome and had a shop do the Motormounts :banghead: Way to much $$$ spent on labor+ they did a terrible job putting the exhaust back on which resulted in a leak and me haveing to spend more $$.. i really should of done them myself when the headers were out..

p.s.
cancerjcc.. next time your in Sfla please change my SWPS.. my abs and TC are gone

You aren't kidding. I do it all myself just for this reason, at least if I mess something up and have to "cheat" on something I will know about it. The shop will do the same thing but leave you with no clue.

Lol at SWPS, and you can come up here and pull off the freaking Maggie to get to my rear head grounds...(darn high oil temp alarms)


Got that linkage to move. I was doing the right thing, just was't pushing hard enough. Once I broke the small rust bond the linkage moved easily. Advice was spot on. Two bolts out of the linkage, push the top part up until you can separate the two pieces. Move the bottom piece out of the way and the header slip and slides right out/in.

Glad to hear it is going well now. Before you know it you will be back together and enjoying those new mounts.