: Car Audio Question - Subwoofer



2002BlueWS6
05-30-07, 07:52 PM
Ive done some research and it seems a bunch of people here are happy with replacing the stock sub and powering the new sub with an external amp.

I have an extra amp laying around > Sony Xplod xm-1502SX (with the needed high level inputs)

http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0109cae_sony_xm_1502sx_car_amplifier/

At 2ohms it will do 150RMS x 2 and at 4ohms bridged it will do 380 RMS with 760w peak power.

So my question is.... do I need a sub rated at at least 380 RMS to handle this amp? Or would I be better off running a 2ohm load with a sub that can handle at least 150watts RMS power?

My goal is for a noticable amount of base increase, but primarily superior overall sound quality over the stocker.

So far Im thinking of a JL Audio 10" sub like this....
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-10W3V2-D4-10-W3V2-CAR-SUBWOOFER-SUB-NEW_W0QQitemZ120124975805QQihZ002QQcategoryZ3291QQ rdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Is this too much bass for the stock stereo at 300+watts RMS?

heavymetals
05-30-07, 08:23 PM
You may want to add a better amp to drive the speakers (after you replace them also). :thumbsup:

Shouldn't be to big of an amp (a little overkill) unless you plan on running full on.

Remember you can only fit a 10" sub into the existing hole.

2002BlueWS6
05-30-07, 08:27 PM
You may want to add a better amp to drive the speakers (after you replace them also). :thumbsup:

Shouldn't be to big of an amp (a little overkill) unless you plan on running full on.

Remember you can only fit a 10" sub into the existing hole.

So you recommend an 8"? Didn't you go 10" with a .25" trim to fit heavymetal?

You know the answer to my previous questions regarding ohms and pairing a sub with my amp?

LV_V
05-30-07, 08:33 PM
It may be too much for that sub if you are running it in the stock location (i.e. free-air).

Running a sub free-air decreases the power handling because the sub's suspension is allowed to move further. While it may handle it thermally, it may have problems mechanically (i.e. bottoming out).

Look into a sub that can handle that power free-air (ala Image Dynamics IDMAX, which BTW is overkill for the stock mids/highs) or run at 8 ohms bridged, where it will be doing a guesstimated 190 watts RMS, perfect for a free-air Image Dynamics IDQ10,12 v2 or ID10,12 v3.

Just my 2 cents.

1QUICKV
05-30-07, 08:37 PM
i know the ohm's are different (stock v. aftermarket) To do the job the "right" way you need a crossover, so you dont burn out the nav amp which is built in because of the different ohms. (It will burn out way down the road if you dont get a crossover i think thats what they call it. You need an amp, crossover and sub

heavymetals
05-30-07, 08:42 PM
You don't need a crossover (signal is already) to drive a replacement sub with a bigger amp.

I removed material and used an INFINITY 10" sub woofer.

I also used a booster amp that I could adjust phasing on as you don't want the sub fighting the front speakers.

GMBOUND
05-30-07, 10:00 PM
Big Sony fan but not for Car Audio.
I have an extra JL 500/1 if your interested.
Very Clean and Efficient.

2002BlueWS6
05-30-07, 10:26 PM
The JL audio is a super quality amp but Im going to stick with my Sony bc its not even being used and has worked well for me in the past. Mainly trying to find the best sub to match its output without drownding my stock stereo...