hey.

I recently bought a 71 coue deville and im trying to work out the problems with it.

1. Charging problem. the generator light surges constantly and causes all the lights inside and out side of the car to surge. i tried adjusting the voltage regulator but to my surprise the regulator on the car is not adjustible (and my GM sevice manual only acknowledges that the car should have an adjustible regulator). It also appears that the car has a typical GM 2 wire alternator rather then a "generator".

2. The car had a small engine fire. The anti-dieseling solenoid is fried and some of the wiring around it. there are also 2 vacuum lines that enter the engine bay low on the firewall on the drivers side that are just dangling and have no clue as to where to connect them.

3. There is a diaphram of some sort perched beside the coil where a harness and vacuum line where once connected.

any help with these issues would be greatly appreciated.
frustrated,
-Dan

Post pix if you can. It will get sorted out.

definately... as for the voltage regulator and alternator i think theyre the wrong parts, the guy who had it before didnt seem to care much about keeping it running right, he just wanted to look cool.

-Dan

Consider replacing the alternator with a later internally regulated unit. Very easy swap.

while still using the external regulator? im sorta thinking that is what the previous owner did. would the the regulators not cause any problem?

Only use the new internal regulator. The original can be removed or left in place for decoration.

what do you do with the harness from the external regulator? just disconnect it?


these photos are of the problems i was originally inquiring about...

1. Diaphragm mounted beside the coil.
2. 2 vacuum lines from the firewall low on the driver side
3. 3 cut wires running along the driver side valve cover

First, the GM shop manuals of that time referred to the alternators as generators, they technically GENerated power, whatever.

Do not use a "single wire" alternator. Also known as self exciting, etc. They do not provide enough voltage below 2000 RPM. You'll need to run some wires to the old regulator. What my shop did was they got a new external regulator, and housed it in my original Delco Remy regulator housing. I was running a single wire alternator (I wanted a chrome alternator. It was the original Delco-Remy casing, but chrome plated and with only ONE terminal!) and found out the hard way about the low voltage below 2000 RPM. If you get a Delco original alternatoe with the built in internal regulator, it SHOULD have all the terminals on it to allow you to not use the old regulator, but you'll STILL need to use those wires, because they light up your dash idiot light, etc. Just extend the proper wires to the BAT, F and whatever other terminals are on the alternator.

If you don't already have one, get an original 1971 shop manual. There were significant electrical differences between 1970 and 1971 (my expertise is 68-70) in addition to the new lowered compression ratios.

im not sure i follow at all what you are saying about wiring for the external regulator... you still need an external voltage regulator to convert to internal regulator style alternator? im guessing the alternator connector would have to be changed? i actually do own 2 original 71 cadillac service manuals hehe.

Bang!Bang! did you ever figure out the hoses going into the firewall? I have one loose and the other going into something mounted under the distributor with the markings "T C D", one marking for 3 different vacuum hose hookups. Not sure where the other hose going into the firewall goes....

nevermind.. i found out what the TCD was.. but I also have the diaphram looking thing next to the coil.. where does the vacuum tubes go for that?

I believe I got this from Chilton and !supposedly! it applies to 69 thru 74 Lacs. I say supposedly, because I know there can be a little more to it than this. The TCD thing is the ported vacuum switch. I think T (actually it might say MT) would go to manifold vacuum, D goes to the vacuum advance, and C goes to ported vacuum on the carbrator. If you have an F1 it connects to the idle-speed-up device on the carb if you have A/C, otherwise it should be plugged, I think. Look in your manual in the Distributor section for Distributor Vacuum Switch (Thermal Vacuum Switch). I think the two severed vacuum lines that go into the firewall probably operate parts of the climate control system or the parking brake release. Some guesses as to the wires that were burnt up by driver's side valve cover: anti-dieseling solenoid (since you say you had one), or the transmission kickdown switch would have two wires running down to the trans. It seems like you have the car running, so I guess it's not the two wires for the coil.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f111/Brother_B/Cad_69_THRU_74.jpg

Bang! Bang!,

I have a 1970 Eldorado. My car does not have the selenoid that is on your car. Is it attached to the throttle assembly in any way? It may be a transmission downshift switch. I have a mechanical one of those near the coil on mine.

As for the generator/alternator - it is possible to convert your car to the newer alternator options if you aren't worried about the originality of a generator with an external regulator. My car was converted to an alternator with no external regulator. It works quite nicely. It's especially nice if you plan to add other electric items such as a modern car stereo. The original equipment didn't put out enough current for today's equipment. My original generator would have generated 45 - 55 amps. My current alternator can generate up to 90.

If you want to find replacements for the original equipment, Rock Auto carries the generator. If you want to go to an alternator, talk to someone who has done it (my car came that way). It sounds like the hardest part can be the mounting hardware needing to be different.

Hope this helps,

Brandon

im not sure i follow at all what you are saying about wiring for the external regulator... you still need an external voltage regulator to convert to internal regulator style alternator? im guessing the alternator connector would have to be changed? i actually do own 2 original 71 cadillac service manuals hehe.

You don't need the external regulator if your new alternator had a built in regulator, but you still new to WIRE it to your dash lights using the old wires that go to the original external regulator. If you don't your dash idiot lights will not light up and if your new alternator takes a powder - or if you break the belt - you won't know it untill the battery dies - or until the car overheats - which happenned to me!