: radiator



THE VILLE
05-22-07, 11:25 PM
I have an 02 deville that has been overheating and I have reasson to believe it might be the radiator I took it to a radiator shop to see if that was the problem the guy working touched the radiator and said that it was bad because it was cold he then told me that he couldent flush it because part of the radiator was plastic. I believe my radiator is clogged and wanted to have it flushed so I don't have to buy a new one . I can see that the sides of the radiator are plastic but does that mean it can't be flushed. How would I be sure that its my radiator that's bad.

chazglenn3
05-23-07, 12:07 AM
I am chasing down the same problem with my car. The radiator is still cool when the engine is hot. I was going to try and flush the radiator myself but haven't found the time. Planning to take it to a shop maybe Thursday.

thu
05-23-07, 01:31 AM
I'd check the thermostat first.

chazglenn3
05-23-07, 02:29 AM
I changed it the other day. Tested both of them in a pot of boiling water, and they both were good.

Ranger
05-23-07, 10:37 AM
I see no reason for not flushing it just because the side tanks are plastic.

EcSTSatic
05-23-07, 10:57 AM
I've never heard of that either. Try another shop!

dkozloski
05-23-07, 01:45 PM
Is the core aluminum or brass? If you put an aluminum radiator in a hot tank it'll disappear while you're looking at it.

eldorado1
05-24-07, 12:15 AM
I wasn't aware they still made brass radiators? Every stock car I've seen has a single core aluminum unit with plastic end tanks.

danbuc
05-24-07, 07:44 PM
If the flush is more than $150...just buy a new radiator. My side tanks were both leaking so I picked a new one up for $142. Put it in last Saturday at my buddy's house. It took us a while cause we kept goofing off and crap, but overall, it was pretty easy. If the flush is close to the price of a new unit, you might as well just get a new one.

chazglenn3
05-24-07, 09:23 PM
I am leaning toward just replacing the radiator myself. Looking in the engine compartment I thought it might be a PITA. Based on your report, maybe I will give it a go. I just checked the Napa website and the price was $319!! Where did you get you radiator?

Ranger
05-24-07, 09:52 PM
Charles,
Check http://www.rockauto.com

chazglenn3
05-24-07, 10:37 PM
Will do, Larry. They aren't the ones that take forever to ship are they?

EDIT: Crap...just checked and they are $303.

Ranger
05-24-07, 10:42 PM
They usually have very good prices. They ship VERY fast for future reference. You might check with BBF. I think he picked one up online for a good price not too long ago.

chazglenn3
05-25-07, 01:55 AM
I think I found a local outfit with decent prices. If they don't work out I'll check with BBF. The coolant smell has gotten stronger, so now I am thinking that the end tank or tanks may be cracked.

danbuc
05-25-07, 09:47 AM
I got mine through a AC Delco Parts Supplier around here. I'll try and find out if they can ship stuff as well, cause they're cheaper than just about any other place I've seen.

chazglenn3
05-25-07, 12:17 PM
Cool...let me know!

C170B
05-27-07, 01:44 PM
New radiator is only way to go.

Price new for cad radiator was 145.00 from Gravois radiator in st.louis ,MO.

I was impressed that the carton had company the name Gravois radiator printed on side. Mfg in Thailand and shipped to states. You have to do considerable volume to import like that. It must be that a number of resellers/large shops place a large composite order to fill a shipping container. This company sells on line and is very busy!

Would not be a bad idea to replace the thermostat while you have overheating on your mind.

regards

dkozloski
05-27-07, 02:47 PM
Brass, Harrison replacement radiators are available for a lot of cars at NAPA stores. I used one in my RX-7 Turbo after going through a couple of plastic and beer can originals.

chazglenn3
05-29-07, 10:38 PM
Well, the shop checked the car out and pronounced the radiator plugged. He said they ran it up to operating temp and hit the radiator in different spots with a temp gun. Had a difference of 185 degrees in one area to 70 degrees in another. I just decided to let them change it since I can still barely move from playing softball (sucks to get old). Couldn't get one until tomorrow morning. I'll keep you posted.

Ranger
05-30-07, 12:12 AM
The lesser of two evils is always good news Charles. Glad to hear it was not worse.

chazglenn3
05-30-07, 08:53 PM
I got the car back, and of course the system the has air in it. I'm letting it cool now so I can top it off and rev it up cold to get the air out. The temp rose on the way home then dropped a couple of times like the standard air pocket symptom.

Ranger
05-30-07, 10:49 PM
Charles,
If there is air in the system, the purge line is likely clogged. Locate and clear the obstruction.

Mountie
05-30-07, 11:13 PM
If the radiator is that clogged, shop for another one...... ( BTW) It cost me $90 to flush mine.

They could put in a new core......

Uh, if you do flush it, be sure to plug the oil fittings, but check the radiator after it's flushed, when you install it, and it's supposed to be hot, lay your hand on it in different locations and see if there are any cool areas. ( areas still clogged )

chazglenn3
05-31-07, 12:16 AM
Oh well...the problem still exists unchanged...wasted a bunch of $ on the "clogged radiator". Still overheating, and the radiator still doesn't feel hot (at least the air blown back by the fans). Can the water pump fail without leaking? My next plan will be the pump, belt and tensioner, I suppose. This sucks...

Ranger
05-31-07, 11:31 AM
The only way the pump can fail is if the impeller comes off the shaft (possible but not very likely). I've lost track on what has been done. Thermostat changed? Purge line clear? Tensioner OK? Don't overlook the cap. Check this one out. http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=13538

chazglenn3
05-31-07, 12:02 PM
I put in a new thermostat, checked the purge line, and made sure the tensioner had tension. I haven't checked the cap. I will change the pump belt today, as I think the tensioner is at the end of it's travel and the belt MAY be strecthed. I can confirm this when I remove the belt. The car is running rough on startup for about 5 mins then smooths out...not a good sign. I don't have the tools to do a cylinder pressure test...dealer?

Ranger
05-31-07, 01:02 PM
Any shop can do the cylinder pressure test. All that is needed is an adapter and an air compressor.

chazglenn3
05-31-07, 10:07 PM
Headgasket. I talked to Dave at Custom Innovations. I am now hunting someone to R&R the motor again...sigh.

chazglenn3
05-31-07, 11:06 PM
I forgot to mention he has engineered a better insert out of tempered steel that is stronger than the Timesert. Also has coarser threads to better bite into the block. He also uses longer head bolts to fit the new inserts.After engineering these with a local machine shop, his new warranty no covers removal and installation if one of these motors fails in 3 years with unlimited miles.

Ranger
06-01-07, 12:58 AM
his new warranty no covers removal and installation if one of these motors fails in 3 years with unlimited miles.
Does that mean he is covering yours?

chazglenn3
06-01-07, 08:42 AM
No, not this one. The motors that have been built with these new inserts. And my message should have read "his new warranty NOW covers..." Sorry...the edit button must go away after a certain amount of time.

Ranger
06-01-07, 11:57 AM
Well that SUCKS! :mad: So much for standing behind your product.

chazglenn3
06-01-07, 12:19 PM
He is standing behind his original warranty. The warranty when I got my engine was for repair or replacement of the motor only, unless the install was done by Custom Innovations. That is fair. The new warranty goes above and beyond in that he will cover the R&R regardless of who did the work if the newer stronger inserts fail. So, yes he will fix the motor, but I have to get it to him. He will also cover shipping charges both ways.

tripledoil
06-06-07, 11:03 AM
I forgot to mention he has engineered a better insert out of tempered steel that is stronger than the Timesert. Also has coarser threads to better bite into the block. He also uses longer head bolts to fit the new inserts.After engineering these with a local machine shop, his new warranty no covers removal and installation if one of these motors fails in 3 years with unlimited miles.

I had my engine rebuilt from custom innovations (twice) I was also a tech before....Dave didnt engineer a damn thing, he stole a pat pending design from a guy on e-bay that sells monster northstar inserts and gave one to a machine shop....Who knows if they are as good- but the e-bay guy has awesome inserts. I MADE him buy the ones from that guy for my engine for the second rebuild. My engine STILL is no good. It now leaks oil from the rear main seal and oil pan, plus my entire powersteering system is ruined from metal shavings- Either he added them or they got in there when the block was being drilled to accept the inserts. I can go on an ON about that shop. Im all the way in RI and I sent my STS to him due to his convincing ad's- My worst move I ever made. I just filed in WI district court- Has ANYONE Else had similar problems?? And oh, as far as his unlimited warranty? YA RIGHT! I didnt make it 100 miles before mine overheated again & leaked oil (which it never did before) Nice feeling at 1 A.M. trying to make it back to RI from WI!!
He'll blame YOU for any problems- Need any more info?? I've got plenty on that shop. Oh, I was also called (and I quote) "a cheap *******" as a reward for forking over almost $5,000 CASH after I disagreed with his over the phone "its your fault theory" So come on....there HAS to be more Caddy owners who had dealing with him.

Mountie
06-06-07, 11:46 AM
He'll blame YOU for any problems- Need any more info?? I've got plenty on that shop. Oh, I was also called (and I quote) "a cheap *******" as a reward for forking over almost $5,000 CASH after I disagreed with his over the phone "its your fault theory" So come on....there HAS to be more Caddy owners who had dealing with him.[/quote]

Shame on them....... Contact the local B B B & the District Attorney's Office ( Consumer Affairs / Complaints) to inquire of other complaints.

I figured any repair cost near the price of a new OEM engine, I'd take the factory warranty engine.

tripledoil
06-06-07, 03:41 PM
I plan on that as well. Yeah he blamed me alright......even going to the extreme saying "hey you asked for a rebuild" not my fault if its your radiator! (which it wasnt) its the first thing I checked- Thats like your Doctor saying...look Pal, you told me to chop your leg off with a rusty sword....then 4 days later stating LOOK, its not my fault you cant walk! You probably have cancer-
After he had my car for 6+ weeks for the second rebuild (he was "busy") it actually came down to getting the Police involved. They then called back and refered me to a fraud investigator for the State of WI. He works with the District Attorneys office and gathers info to see if charges will be filled. Once Dave Branchfield found this out the car zipped right into the shop. The guy actually has the nuts to use a photo of my car on his new website- The (only car) that shows work being done. You should see his E-bay photo's! ALL FAKE- except for 2 I found the same pictures with hyped out Northstar engines on a Northstar performance website. I also caught him in several out and out lies....There were over 100 e-mails that went back and fourth to get him to rebuild it the second time. I shipped the car back to WI, then back here for the 2nd build. When I went out side to meet the truck driver it was still up on the trailer.....I looked up to see the engine SOAKED with oil. The car also looked like total crap from sitting in the dirt for 6 weeks. He practically claims to be the worlds best Northstar guy- what a joker. He boasts about being a Jet mechanic etc etc etc---
If you CAN'T get the ONE and only engine you fix repaired then it might be time to hang up the mechanic shirt.
As far as anyone else who has a Northstar overheating problem.....Don forget the check & clean the metal coolant return line!! mine was never done-

Ranger
06-06-07, 05:42 PM
WOW. I just recommended these guys (custom Innovations). I think it was on caddyinfo. Wish I could remember who it was. Won't be doing that again.

Mountie
06-06-07, 05:56 PM
Some mechanics are plain stupid....... Wouldn't this guy rather say "No" to a Northstar, and have a simple day pulling out a '70's Bug engine and have lunch?

Some people make life so complicated.

tripledoil
06-06-07, 09:37 PM
Your right- But thats all he works on I guess....I would have done it myself if the engine didnt have to come out though the bottom. It takes a blue collar guy awhile to save 5K to blow on a Caddy- He told me "good luck in court all the way from RI" well, I spent 3 days typing a 36 page law suit and will have a telephone trial. I love a challange- Id have more repect for the guy if he said- Hey, what can I do to make you happy? I probably would have settled for a low amount (before) Instead, you'll be told to pound sand....esspecially if you dare question the "Northstar King". Well, I'll fight this one for 5 years if thats what it takes.:want:

chazglenn3
06-06-07, 11:48 PM
Oh man...this doesn't sound good at all. I was just setting up a plan to have the motor removed and shipped back to him to fix. I should probably rethink this plan. Damn.

tripledoil
06-07-07, 10:53 AM
Oh man...this doesn't sound good at all. I was just setting up a plan to have the motor removed and shipped back to him to fix. I should probably rethink this plan. Damn.

You said back? he didnt fix yours the first time either? Let me guess, did you have an "airpocket" HA- BS But, If its free why not- those new inserts he uses are because of me. I demanded the monster inserts.. Time Serts Do not hold up- and never have. The big ones go into the virgin aluminum and have a better bite. Just dont give him a nickel.....If he did work on it, do me a favor.....have your mechanic take off the front valve cover (its easy) then remove one or two head bolts.... look in there to see if there are "any inserts at all" I'll betcha there isnt. I believe he'd only install inserts if he see's a flakey head bolt when he was "rebuilding" --- with mine, he didnt mill the cylinder heads the first time either. So what happens is, when he re-tightens the head thats when the head bolts would start to strip out. All this to save what......$100 bucks on a 5000 rebuild? :rant2: Also, if you find no inserts- why should you then pay for labor? It is clearly advertised he is frantic over doing that as part of the supposed rebuild.

chazglenn3
06-07-07, 01:35 PM
I mean ship it back to repair. This is the first failure of the motor.

tripledoil
06-07-07, 02:14 PM
Well if you do plan on that I'd recommend sending the whole car to him so he cant blame your installer if there was a problem- If you notice all his e-bay engine listings - all his good ratings are from people he purchased things from. One guy left feedback saying "dave's the man for engines" but I dont know what he purchased- I even e-mailed that person to see but he never responded...So where are the ratings??? why use MY car for his site if he's so great? why take a chance? I'd go with a real engine co with real machining eqipment.....anyone can make a mistake- thats human, but he just takes the cake in dozens of ways. One thing he does repond to is money going in his pocket....once that happens good luck!

Mountie
06-07-07, 02:40 PM
Your right- But thats all he works on I guess....I would have done it myself if the engine didnt have to come out though the bottom. It takes a blue collar guy awhile to save 5K to blow on a Caddy- He told me "good luck in court all the way from RI" well, I spent 3 days typing a 36 page law suit and will have a telephone trial. I love a challange- Id have more repect for the guy if he said- Hey, what can I do to make you happy? I probably would have settled for a low amount (before) Instead, you'll be told to pound sand....esspecially if you dare question the "Northstar King". Well, I'll fight this one for 5 years if thats what it takes.:want:

I used to be an insurance adjuster, where we did difficult cases..... If you have nearly full coverage, inquire if this engine case would be simular to a "theft" or " vandalism", where you may have your insurance cover a new engine while you wait for reimbursment from the 'fraud' & have the settelment be sent to your insurance company. ( Couldn't hurt to try?)

tripledoil
06-07-07, 03:50 PM
I used to be an insurance adjuster, where we did difficult cases..... If you have nearly full coverage, inquire if this engine case would be simular to a "theft" or " vandalism", where you may have your insurance cover a new engine while you wait for reimbursment from the 'fraud' & have the settelment be sent to your insurance company. ( Couldn't hurt to try?)

Thanks for the tip, but this has gone on for 6 months, about 3-4 months into this I dropped my full coverage seeing how I wasnt able to drive it. He's supposed to have shop keepers insurance but I bet he doesnt have that either....Its probably public record- in the slight case I loose in court I'll file a claim.

thu
06-08-07, 03:12 AM
He boasts about being a Jet mechanic etc etc etc---
The thing about him bragging to be a jet mechanic - I'm a pilot and I have been partners in several airplanes. I deal with many of the mechanics myself.

Let me tell you....jet/turbine mechanics know almost ZIP about piston engines. Jet aircraft and piston aircraft are pretty much two completely different beasts. You cannot work on jet/turbine engines/airplanes, be good at that, then work on piston engines/airplanes and also be good at that. This seems to be pretty universal.

The amount jet mechanics know about piston engine aircraft and of the piston powerplant is DANGEROUS. Almost every time I sent airplanes for repair or maintenance (major or minor) to a jet/turbine A&P (Airframe and Powerplant) mechanic, the work had to be redone by a *real* mechanic. Yup, pretty much every single time.

The kind of crap that happened is stuff like hooking up alternators BACKWARDS, routing simple hoses in the WRONG place. etc etc etc. Then, failing to own up to the mistakes and pay for them. So, we had to pay for repairs and upgrades twice.

Just about the only thing they haven't fouled up is changing the oil.

The exception is one guy that I call on regularly that I trust. He does simple things, like change instruments and tires and bulbs, but for more esoteric things, he tells me to call someone else. He will not attempt to do anything to the engine itself except change the oil. Why? Because he's a jet/turbine mechanic, NOT a piston engine mechanic.

The more honest ones warn me that they're jet mechanics and can do very little for our piston aircraft.

Guess what kind of mechanic I don't send my piston engine airplanes to anymore?

So, the fact that this guy brags about being a jet mechanic should send shivers up and down your spine.

tripledoil
06-08-07, 08:53 AM
Thats intersting, I can picture that with the jets...Its also the people who brag about anything w/ the Military are usually the one's who never finished and have some sort of nutty military discharge- Its also guys like this who have their wives convinced they are a real "Tough guy" They get so use to people buying their BS for so long they are extra angry when someone out and out busts them on anything.... Bow to the master who cant fix a thing- & don't question any bs :worship:
Here's one funny story from this Jet Mechanic, Dave (out of at least 15)
After my first engine "rebuild" from custom innovation we had been going back and fourth on the phone for days....I then highly suspected he didnt do half of what he claimed. I asked, Dave, you didnt have those cylinder heads milled did you? Oh course he said yes, but as he continued with blaming me and offering sad excuses I said- Listen, I plan of having this engine removed and checking the entire job, including looking for the mill swirl marks on the bottom of the heads. He then said, Ummmm, well, I use a scotch brite ziz wheel and remove those marks. I then said, so let me get this straight- you find it necessary to mess with a true flat surface from a machine shop lathe that probably cost over $50,000? He then changed the conversation...talking about other excuses- I then said, No no- Im not done with the head topic. I then requested the name of the machine shop. He answered saying, I would Never give that information out! Gee, I wonder why?

Ranger
06-08-07, 12:47 PM
He then said, Ummmm, well, I use a scotch brite ziz wheel and remove those marks.

This is from our old Guru (GM powertrain engineer)

"Someone in another thread mentioned using scotchbrite to clean up gasket surfaces during an engine rebuild.....not a good idea....

Scotch brite.......!!!!............?????????

NEVER USE SCOTCHBRITE TO CLEAN UP GASKET SURFACES OF AN ENGINE.

NEVER, EVER, EVER USE SCOTCHBRITE ON AN ENGINE. At least not one you want to run again for a long time.

Scotchbrite seems so benign but it is death to engines. Scotchbrite pads are nylon fibers with 40 micron particles of aluminum oxide in them. Scotchbrite dust leaves behind all those 40 micron particles hidden everywhere. Aluminum oxide is an extremely aggressive abrasive. It imbeds in the bearings and eats the crank....and other things.

Scotchbrite is the bane of the aftermarket re-man engine industry. There are lots of "new" re-mans ruined by cleaning up the old parts with scotchbrite pads and then installing them. Eats up the engine immediately. That is why many engines fail the main and rod bearings after a head job or other work...scotchbrite. People think it is because of coolant getting into the oil ruining the bearings or something when it was really the scotchbrite the mechanic used to clean up the parts... especially a Northstar engine where the block deck surface cleaning funnels the scotchbrite dust down the oil drain back passages.

If you cleaned up parts with scotchbrite you now have a HUGE cleanup job ahead of you cleaning up after the scotchbrite. You must make positively sure that none of the dust remains anywhere on any parts or got into the oil cavity. Hopefully the valley of the engine was covered if you used scotchbrite on the deck surface as if it drifted into the valley or into the pan your engine is toast.

I am very very serious about this. Scotchbrite has a very bad reputation in the industry as it seems like such an ideal cleanup method, seems so benign, yet can cause such extreme damage. Most mechanics in the know stay miles away from scotchbrite as it is harder to clean up after it than any labor it saves.


If you doubt this at all call JASPER or any of the main engine re-man companies and ask them if it is OK to use scotchbrite to clean up the manifold you are going to put on your Jasper re-man...."

tripledoil
06-08-07, 06:38 PM
This is from our old Guru (GM powertrain engineer)

"Someone in another thread mentioned using scotchbrite to clean up gasket surfaces during an engine rebuild.....not a good idea....

Scotch brite.......!!!!............?????????

NEVER USE SCOTCHBRITE TO CLEAN UP GASKET SURFACES OF AN ENGINE.

NEVER, EVER, EVER USE SCOTCHBRITE ON AN ENGINE. At least not one you want to run again for a long time.

Scotchbrite seems so benign but it is death to engines. Scotchbrite pads are nylon fibers with 40 micron particles of aluminum oxide in them. Scotchbrite dust leaves behind all those 40 micron particles hidden everywhere. Aluminum oxide is an extremely aggressive abrasive. It imbeds in the bearings and eats the crank....and other things.

Scotchbrite is the bane of the aftermarket re-man engine industry. There are lots of "new" re-mans ruined by cleaning up the old parts with scotchbrite pads and then installing them. Eats up the engine immediately. That is why many engines fail the main and rod bearings after a head job or other work...scotchbrite. People think it is because of coolant getting into the oil ruining the bearings or something when it was really the scotchbrite the mechanic used to clean up the parts... especially a Northstar engine where the block deck surface cleaning funnels the scotchbrite dust down the oil drain back passages.

If you cleaned up parts with scotchbrite you now have a HUGE cleanup job ahead of you cleaning up after the scotchbrite. You must make positively sure that none of the dust remains anywhere on any parts or got into the oil cavity. Hopefully the valley of the engine was covered if you used scotchbrite on the deck surface as if it drifted into the valley or into the pan your engine is toast.

I am very very serious about this. Scotchbrite has a very bad reputation in the industry as it seems like such an ideal cleanup method, seems so benign, yet can cause such extreme damage. Most mechanics in the know stay miles away from scotchbrite as it is harder to clean up after it than any labor it saves.


If you doubt this at all call JASPER or any of the main engine re-man companies and ask them if it is OK to use scotchbrite to clean up the manifold you are going to put on your Jasper re-man...."

I believe it- makes sense.... I even knew that but didnt even bother to say anything to him. I used a ziz wheel when I was on the dealer line but I purchased my own special cleaning pads on it. It was a rubber type material with a bunch of stubby ends.
I guess its not only the scotch brite that was a joke, but who the hell would ruin a perfect machine surface doing that, just to "take away" those faint swirl marks- Im so glad I treated myself & sent my car out this time! :thepan:

99Classillac
06-12-07, 01:02 AM
Damn if my heads go I'll make sure to stay away from this rip-off. And I'm an A&P mechanic. I know more about a piston engine than the jet/turbine engine. I don't even work on them. I just got the P part because everyone wants to hire an A&P licenced mechanic instead of just an A licence mechanic. Don't ever ask me to work on your turbine, I'll probably screw it up. Haven't touched one except when I was learning. Airframe on the other hand, I'm the shit, lol.

thu
06-12-07, 01:28 AM
Yes, that is the experience I'm having in the aircraft industry. During training, all A&Ps learn about both turbines and pistons.

After that, they seem to go work in one or the other, but not both. They get very good at one or the other, but not both.

Mountie
06-12-07, 01:37 AM
Damn if my heads go I'll make sure to stay away from this rip-off. And I'm an A&P mechanic. I know more about a piston engine than the jet/turbine engine. I don't even work on them. I just got the P part because everyone wants to hire an A&P licenced mechanic instead of just an A licence mechanic. Don't ever ask me to work on your turbine, I'll probably screw it up. Haven't touched one except when I was learning. Airframe on the other hand, I'm the shit, lol.

I've hung on, at 191 MPH in the water.... then we make a turn!

Funny..... the turbine sound is always like if you are on take-off ..... The water doesn't get thinner at high speed, like an aircraft.

dkozloski
06-12-07, 02:17 AM
Yes, that is the experience I'm having in the aircraft industry. During training, all A&Ps learn about both turbines and pistons.

After that, they seem to go work in one or the other, but not both. They get very good at one or the other, but not both.
What's worse than a jet mechanic working on recips is a tin bender trying to do dope and fabric work. That can get downright comical. Everything is specialized nowdays.

Mountie
06-12-07, 02:26 AM
What's worse than a jet mechanic working on recips is a tin bender trying to do dope and fabric work. That can get downright comical. Everything is specialized nowdays.

Are ya talking about a skin on a plane?

99Classillac
06-12-07, 01:13 PM
Yea we're talking about th skin. I do a lot of sheetmetal and I'm pretty good with the fiberglass and kevlar. Army helicopters like the Apache that I worked on have a lot of kevlar and fiberglass and the Blackhawks have a lot of glasswork too. I used to fix them a lot.

dkozloski
06-12-07, 01:17 PM
Yea we're talking about th skin. I do a lot of sheetmetal and I'm pretty good with the fiberglass and kevlar. Army helicopters like the Apache that I worked on have a lot of kevlar and fiberglass and the Blackhawks have a lot of glasswork too. I used to fix them a lot.
What do you know about fabric and dope on tubular and wood structure?

Mountie
06-12-07, 09:32 PM
How's this for an ultra-light?

tripledoil
06-13-07, 02:20 AM
[QUOTE=thu;1112012]Yes, that is the experience I'm having in the aircraft industry. During training, all A&Ps learn about both turbines and pistons.

After that, they seem to go work in one or the other, but not both. They get very good at one or the other, but not both.[/QUOTE

The Jet thing is just another way to make himself feel better- Some techs get pissed & frustrated when they are challanged. Tech's who cant fix a damn thing know it deep down. He'd tell you he was the Prince of Bel-Air if it Helped part you with your 5K..... Come on Dave- log on- show your true colors for us all. Maybe you should gvet into the Velcro business? Because thats what your customers will need for engine mounts after you work on it.

Playdrv4me
06-17-07, 03:33 AM
I just read this whole thing. Im always cautious about chastising someone who isnt available to post their side of an argument, but I believe weve got a serious enough situation here to warrant either changing the name of this thread or creating a new thread about Custom Innovations and making it a sticky in the Northstar vehicle section or at least this Northstar Tech forum. Perhaps one day this Dave character will show his face here and at least attempt to explain what the hell is going on.

This information shouldnt be hidden in a thread that will end up 10 pages deep.

tripledoil
06-17-07, 10:43 PM
I just read this whole thing. Im always cautious about chastising someone who isnt available to post their side of an argument, but I believe weve got a serious enough situation here to warrant either changing the name of this thread or creating a new thread about Custom Innovations and making it a sticky in the Northstar vehicle section or at least this Northstar Tech forum. Perhaps one day this Dave character will show his face here and at least attempt to explain what the hell is going on.

This information shouldnt be hidden in a thread that will end up 10 pages deep.

Well its just the plain truth- I lived it.....I KNOW others have too. As far as a warrant he almost had one if he had my car another 10 days. Also, after his F*** up he threatened to put a lien on my car if I didnt pay for more parts....he planned on blaming the radiator & charging me twice-?! This was (before) he started the second rebuild.....I went absolutly nuts. I told him do NOT touch that car...send it back- Gee, all of a sudden he admitted he pulled out a head bolt when he first rebuilt it. Why would a tech tell a customer "well" I dont think I messed up, But....I'll rebuild the entire engine again, THEN, if it doesnt fix it- I'll try a radiator. Isn't that a little backwards.?
***UPDATE*** I found a great local shop here in RI. The engine is now out for the 3rd time- It needs another set of head gaskets, a rear main seal, and the oil pan gasket.....Whats funny is- the tech noticed the Mid Case seal is not leaking, however, GM has an updated gasket for the midcase block. Instead, Custom Innovations used a tube of silicone! Sweet! Now I get to paythe tech another 6 hours to scrape that crap off and do it right.....

Ranger
06-17-07, 11:30 PM
Have them check it out closely. That is what killed Chazglenn's engine. They found silicone or RTV in the oil pump pickup from a previous half assed attempt at a halfcase repair and the engine eventually starved for oil.

chazglenn3
06-18-07, 10:47 PM
Yep...the entire oil pickup screen was clogged with silicone...killed the motor dead. I now this motor evidently has been sealed with the stuff. I am just going to sell the car if I can ever get it running right and buy myself a '91 Seville.

tripledoil
06-19-07, 12:20 AM
Yep...the entire oil pickup screen was clogged with silicone...killed the motor dead. I now this motor evidently has been sealed with the stuff. I am just going to sell the car if I can ever get it running right and buy myself a '91 Seville.

That stinks.... It can be frustrating- I just wouldnt give up with mine. I may have the only STS that runs good and doesnt have oil leaks 3 years from now. The 1997-2002 STS models look sweet, just has that look like the driver window will open and a sub-machine gun pops out. You can see mine on Daves website, he must be so proud!...just type in custom innovations northstar on google and his site is the second one down. Even GM cant figure the Northstar out- They just hope they "go away" It took a tool maker on e-bay to make inserts that work.....but it was pretty much 3 years too late. & again, Don't bother w/ GM timeserts-----they Do Not work...if they work for a short time, (you were lucky)
And Oh, the 91 Seville- nice- I had a sweet 91 dark red Deville w/ a 4.9 - Like sitting on a leather couch & they can be fixed (sort of)

Anyone can laugh at will about Volvo's but I was working on the line from 1994-2001 & really, that is one car that is "meant to be fixed" at least for those years. I've worked on many that have 300,000 miles plus- any Caddy owners out there still tickin along at 300K?.
People say they are high maintenence because somone figured out years ago that Volvo customers will pay $800.00 for a 60,000 mile tune-up & another $1500.00 for brakes...the good old days- thats why Dave at Custom Innovations is pissed- you cant con a dealership tech. :thehand:

tripledoil
06-23-07, 12:17 PM
Im Sure the story is already to long and old for most readers already....But get this new update! (as of 6/22/07)

My new local guy has been doing a perfect and careful job on the removal and repair of my engine on its 3rd removal. He's attending to the oil leaks and a ton of other problems Custom Innovations hacked..... I stopped by his shop yesterday to see how he was making out. He had the engine on an engine stand showing me a half dozen things Dave at Innovations broke. Such as a twisted EGR tube, snapped coolant temp sensor, an oil pick up tube 1/2 full with silicone bits and more.
Bet get this one- when Custom Innovations installed my "new" front engine mount that they sold me- he must have snapped the bolt while putting it on with an impact gun (SO) He WELDED the engine mount onto the subframe.....he didnt even put a weld bead all the way down the sides. Also, my new guy found two bolts for the power steering bracket laying on top of the P/S lines. I guess when Dave dropped them he didnt feel my steering was important enough to be secured. And still, metal shavings all over the block- the new shop will blow/clean it off, he just wanted me to see.
Gee, I wonder where all those metal shavings in my power steering fluid came from as I posted ealier. Hummmmm- Im damn glad Dave wasnt in my line sight yesterday.

Ranger
06-23-07, 04:25 PM
WOW! That is some real shoddy workmanship. Sorry I ever recommended them. I certainly don't anymore.

clarkz71
06-24-07, 02:22 PM
UN-believable what hacks are out there. I've seen plenty in my years as a Mercedes Benz dealer tech.

chazglenn3
06-24-07, 11:51 PM
Wow...I'm glad I was able to sell my '99 STS before any of these other issues turned up. I certainly don't want to deal with the silicone in the oil pickup problem again! I too am now sorry I recommended them. I have some things to fix on the '91 but at least they are not drivetrain related.

tripledoil
07-20-07, 02:30 AM
I heard custom innovations has some extra nuts for sale for the northstar

nesto44
07-20-07, 04:17 AM
Hi i have been reading this thread in much frustation and anger because I, as it seems, am also one of those persons to have been convinced by the "Custom Innovations" Ads...I bought the motor about just recently and after paying for the motor and installation im out of about 6000 Bucks that i spent countless overtime hours trying to gather the money to bring back to life my beloved 1999 cadillac deville concours while still trying to pay all of my bills...The Car Still Overheats but I havent had a leak down test but will try to have one done ASAP...On top of that the car has New Water Pump,Radaitor, CKP Sensors, Cam Sensor, Coilpacks Sparkplugs and Wires and the list Goes On and on.....tripledoil i wanted to ask if u could possibly give an update about ur sit against Custom Innovations as i am currently in the process to file a suit as well......Oh yeah and did u ever file a complaint against them with the BBB because i was actually looking them up On the BBB and it seems that they have no complaints....I almost forgot to mention that on The Custom Innovations site they claim to be members of the BBB and the BBB site saids that they are Not members....Thanx advance

GregA
07-20-07, 05:10 PM
Wow, that right there is fraud - contact the Attorney General. Take a screen shot (before they remove it), and forward this.

CADDYLUVA
07-20-07, 06:48 PM
try autozone or advanced auto if they are in your area. i replaced mine at a local partshouse in my area for 145.00.

tripledoil
07-26-07, 09:57 PM
Hi i have been reading this thread in much frustation and anger because I, as it seems, am also one of those persons to have been convinced by the "Custom Innovations" Ads...I bought the motor about just recently and after paying for the motor and installation im out of about 6000 Bucks that i spent countless overtime hours trying to gather the money to bring back to life my beloved 1999 cadillac deville concours while still trying to pay all of my bills...The Car Still Overheats but I havent had a leak down test but will try to have one done ASAP...On top of that the car has New Water Pump,Radaitor, CKP Sensors, Cam Sensor, Coilpacks Sparkplugs and Wires and the list Goes On and on.....tripledoil i wanted to ask if u could possibly give an update about ur sit against Custom Innovations as i am currently in the process to file a suit as well......Oh yeah and did u ever file a complaint against them with the BBB because i was actually looking them up On the BBB and it seems that they have no complaints....I almost forgot to mention that on The Custom Innovations site they claim to be members of the BBB and the BBB site saids that they are Not members....Thanx advance

Hello, my computer has been on the fritz' - Sorry to hear someone else was toasted from this guy. I spoke to a nice guy today (Richard) over the phone for 20 minutes. He go 10,000 miles out of his rebuild!! Wow! but his failed as well, Dave from Innovations is giving him the same BS. Also, Richard found 2 others who didnt make it over 3000 miles- I have their phone numbers as well. As far as court.....Dave waited until the last day to file his response to the Court (gee I wonder why?) His write up was quite funny....pretty much stating, well its Not My Fault! the guy has 150,000 miles on his car. (it has 84,000) Anyway, Im waiting for my phone trial date. The woman at the Court told me today I should find out next week & they're booking small claim trails about 4 weeks out.....so Im looking at Mid-Late August. I put a LOT of work into this- if anyone needs my help I can assist. My e-mail is volvoguydan@yahoo.com If your engine failed, keep in mind Id bet my bottom dollar you have had no time serts at all inserted. Have your mechanic pull off your front valve cover and pull a few bottom head bolts. Use a flexy (bendy) light to look.....I believe when he rebuilds an engine, if the bolts come out OK- no heli coli is used at all. Then when its re-torqued the threads get messed up. I can PROMISE your heads were NOT milled either. 40% of Daves problem is he's a cheap sack of crap. Anyway, let me know if you need help. remember, if you have no time serts at all its skating on fraud......& not only should he rebuild it again free, if it was done at another shop he should pay for the labor! Those "serts" are his claim to fame for the sale after all.

tripledoil
09-17-07, 11:19 AM
Hi i have been reading this thread in much frustation and anger because I, as it seems, am also one of those persons to have been convinced by the "Custom Innovations" Ads...I bought the motor about just recently and after paying for the motor and installation im out of about 6000 Bucks that i spent countless overtime hours trying to gather the money to bring back to life my beloved 1999 cadillac deville concours while still trying to pay all of my bills...The Car Still Overheats but I havent had a leak down test but will try to have one done ASAP...On top of that the car has New Water Pump,Radaitor, CKP Sensors, Cam Sensor, Coilpacks Sparkplugs and Wires and the list Goes On and on.....tripledoil i wanted to ask if u could possibly give an update about ur sit against Custom Innovations as i am currently in the process to file a suit as well......Oh yeah and did u ever file a complaint against them with the BBB because i was actually looking them up On the BBB and it seems that they have no complaints....I almost forgot to mention that on The Custom Innovations site they claim to be members of the BBB and the BBB site saids that they are Not members....Thanx advance

Hi have you seen the new posts against the Guru? Dave is now trying to defend his actions

skip339
09-17-07, 11:46 AM
I also just replaced my radiator in my 1995 eldee called 1-800 -Radiator from the phonebook and they shipped it to my house. $163.95 (next day)