the water pump was easy it's just every other possible thing related to it that I can't seem to manage.

I cannot for the life of me get my fan-air pump belt back on. I know there is the adjustment on the air pump to loosen it, but its buried so far into the engine that it's all I can do to just get the wrench on it, and there is no chance of trying to turn it at all. The service manual is no help. Does anyone have any ideas?

You need to do it from underneath the car. then you can get the wrence on the adjusting nut. I rthink thare a total of three huts holding the infernal contraption on.

Let me know if you want to bypass it, I'll tell you what you need to get.

you can bypass the air pump? what effect does that have? I can't say I do or don't want to without more information. For what its worth I managed to get it on by putting in on the water pump pulley before the pulley was attached.

You need to do it from underneath the car. then you can get the wrence on the adjusting nut. I rthink thare a total of three huts holding the infernal contraption on.

Let me know if you want to bypass it, I'll tell you what you need to get.

Please tell, i would love to bypass that if possable.

Here is the link where Mike ran through the procedure for doing away with the AIR pump:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/500-472-425-368/105194-1968-engine-overhaul.html#post1058462

I think it's enough information, Mike, but if you can think of anything else, please post it up. Mini freeze plug size if you remember, and a little more description of the pulley swaps. You did this on your '68. I have a '69, so my procedure will probably be similar? Did you say you used a crank pulley off a '70 472?

Thanks brother B for helping me out.

The mini freeze plugs - 2 needed one for each cylinder head - are small, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter. you tapp them in in then weld (or otherwise secure) them in place. they go in each cylinder head where that cross tube goes.

Any vacuum hoses to the AIR pump down below the alternatos should be plugged at their source, or you be sorry!

The Water pump and crank pulley ( a dual pulley unit) from a 1970 need to be obtained. ted Holcombe in Bensalem PA had them. You can do the bypass without these pulleys but that requires ofsetting your alternator back towards the block about 1 inch, using spacers, etc, so that it will line up with the original fan and crank pulleys. The 1970 pulley set has the WP pulley set away from the twin Climate Conteol/PS pulleys and the single WP pulley has a different offset to line them up with the alternator.

That's pretty much all there is to it.

1968 and 69 were so similar that they would be the same as far as bypassing the AIR pump.

You end up with one less belt, slightly cooler cylinder head temps, less ugly black rubber hoses above your alternator and probably a slight HP increase.

The 1970 shop manual has a error in the belt lengths, they say 36 inch long, that's WAY too short. I think its about 55.5 inches.

The Climate Control/PS belts sbould be 59 or 59.5 and if you bypass the Climate control compressor the belt size is 48 inches. I carry a set of 48s in the trunk, because if the compressor fails ans seizes up, there goes your PS and these cars a a PITA to drive without PS. :rant2:

Thanks Mike, this will be my next project.

Assuming I am thinking of the correct setup you are reffering to...
Removing the smog pump will cause pemature failure of the cats if installed.
The air carries oxygen to promote burning of unburned fuel in the cats.

If you do not have cats, no problems.