: Whats tickin, good lookin?



97candylacdevil
05-12-07, 08:07 PM
2 days ago i bought a 97 concours with 85k and a slight tickin. The price was right so i picked it up 100 percent expecting to replace the motor. It runs strong and doesent seem to eat oil but i could swear the tickins gettin louder (maybe im just paranoid LOL) but i was wondering if there was anyway to determine what it is exactly b4 i go rippin off the head and find out it just the piston slappin some carbon. I would like to go WOT and see if it is just carbon but im afraid if sumpin breaks i could just be makin more work for myself. Also ive never worked on a northstar b4, if it is the lifter or valve or sumpthin how much trouble did i get into. Any tips on how to repair it would be greatly appriciated.

JimHare
05-12-07, 09:50 PM
It sounds like you may have the somewhat common, but not very disastrous "cold carbon rap", caused by carbon in the CC. Read up on the tech archives up at the top of the home page here, and try a few high rev 2nd gear runs.

A ten year old car with only 85K miles sounds to me like the typical "only went to the grocery store and church on sunday in it" style of owner, in which case the CCR is even more strongly indicated. The engine needs some exercise.

Change the coolant and oil, read up on the archives, and enjoy it.

AJxtcman
05-12-07, 10:36 PM
pre 2000 Have a bad design problem with the cams. The lifters and cams fail. In the majority of the engine from 96 to 99 that I pull down I find Bad cams. Usually the exhaust cams and more fronts that rears.

97candylacdevil
05-13-07, 05:53 PM
k tried the wot to get rid of the tickin and the car overheated(2 runs @0 - 100mph+, and one 50 - 100mph+). could it be a timing problem? also im not getting any heat from my interior vents but it sounds like the fan is blowing; could a heater core problem cause it to overheat that easily? Also i occasionally hear a crunch/grinding noise from behind the dash when the heat is on. i plan a proper coolant flush but any ideas beyond that to help get this beauty runnin right would be greatly appriciated.

Ranger
05-13-07, 08:17 PM
Overheating and no heat from the vents make me think that there is air in the system. Check the purge line to be sure it is clear and flowing.

97candylacdevil
05-13-07, 09:27 PM
When i went to pick up the car where i left it to cool earlier i noticed all the water i refilled it with when it was hot outside had disapeared, so i refilled it to drive home when it was cooler outside and made it home with out even passing midline on the temp gauge. fluid level looks fine again. no visible leaks or white exhaust. could it be a head gasket?

Ranger
05-13-07, 10:20 PM
Certainly a possibility.

jadcock
05-14-07, 10:44 AM
pre 2000 Have a bad design problem with the cams. The lifters and cams fail. In the majority of the engine from 96 to 99 that I pull down I find Bad cams. Usually the exhaust cams and more fronts that rears.

Can you elaborate some more on that? In the 5 years we've been talking Cadillacs on the Internet (here and in other boards), that's the first time I've heard of that issue.

eldorado1
05-14-07, 02:12 PM
pre 2000 Have a bad design problem with the cams. The lifters and cams fail. In the majority of the engine from 96 to 99 that I pull down I find Bad cams. Usually the exhaust cams and more fronts that rears.


... or...people keep filling up with mobil 1 instead of "good" oil, and trash their cams.

jadcock
05-14-07, 02:32 PM
That must be it. I bet the cars run on Amsoil never waste a cam.

jholland
05-14-07, 03:15 PM
Heating up under load and no heat can indicate possible loose head bolts and someone tried to cure it with engine block sealer. The sealer may have plugged the heater core.

Ranger
05-14-07, 04:10 PM
Can you elaborate some more on that? In the 5 years we've been talking Cadillacs on the Internet (here and in other boards), that's the first time I've heard of that issue.
Same here.


I bet the cars run on Amsoil never waste a cam.
Hehe, boy if HighTech Steve were here to read that he'd be all over it.

eldorado1
05-14-07, 04:24 PM
To be fair though, he's a cadillac tech that has probably pulled more cam covers than the rest of us. I imagine a little cam/lifter wear won't hurt anything besides some HP, which isn't something that the butt dyno can notice reliably; especially over time. i.e. maybe 90% of the people here "suffer" from this problem and don't know it. Who knows....

Ranger
05-14-07, 05:59 PM
Just to be clear here and give credit where credit is due, when you say "He is a Caddy tech", you are talking about AJxtcman, not HighTech Steve.

eldorado1
05-14-07, 06:21 PM
correct. Not sure I know a hightech steve?

AJxtcman
05-14-07, 06:21 PM
I have many pictures of this.

Ranger
05-14-07, 06:54 PM
correct. Not sure I know a hightech steve?

Amsoil salesman from another oil thread.

Submariner409
05-14-07, 08:35 PM
:confused: AJ....In repairs at your shop, what percentage of "flat" OHC followers cause excessive lobe wear as opposed to "roller" OHC followers ? What percentage of all N* engines experience excessive cam follower wear ? If you have identified an inherent weakness in the N* design, we may be able to go after GM for redress of early failure.

AJxtcman
05-14-07, 08:47 PM
:confused: AJ....In repairs at your shop, what percentage of "flat" OHC followers cause excessive lobe wear as opposed to "roller" OHC followers ? What percentage of all N* engines experience excessive cam follower wear ? If you have identified an inherent weakness in the N* design, we may be able to go after GM for redress of early failure.

I work at CREST CADILLAC. I AM A WORDCLASS CERTIFIED GM TECH.
80% or more of 99 and prior have bad cams.
0% of 2000+ are bad.
THEY ALREADY FIXED THE PROBLEM IN 2000!
.
the quad 4 has problems, the ECOTECH has major catastrophic failures, S10 ball joints have problems, intake manifold gasket on V6 and V8's. cross over gaskets leak on northstars, I can go on and on with common failure, but they could have designed the S10 ball joints to be 2" in diameter and the truck to be a tank. I need to make a living and it is ok by me.

AJxtcman
05-14-07, 08:53 PM
I deleted the pictures of the valve covers. The valve covers have spray patterns of metal on them from the cams. This is over along period say 50k.

AJxtcman
05-14-07, 09:18 PM
The material in 99 and prior blocks is not even close to the quality of the 2000+. The alloy material used in the 99 and prior breaks down. When I drill the head bolts threads out to install timeserts the metal is gray and powdery. On a good bolt hole the metal is shiny. On the couple of 2000+ bolt holes the material is shiny. I have done less than a handfull of 2000+ timeserts in a minimum of 50 piston jobs and most of the 99 and prior get at the least 10 on average per block.

97candylacdevil
05-14-07, 09:39 PM
it almost seems like when i get into the throttle it eats coolant or spits it out the overflow(ive seen the overflow dripping but not enough to warrant the amount of coolant lost) i tried the heater today at midrange on the temp gauge in cool weather and the air came out hot unlike yesterday. im a little bit of a novice when it comes to newer cars, should i check cylinder pressure to see if thats were all of my coolants going? Also the tickin doesent always happen, just at random times (hot or cold).

oldsauroraman1
05-14-07, 09:51 PM
How are you diagnosing the cam/lifter problem? Here's my situation. I am getting a tapping/knocking noise in my Aurora 4.0 when the engine warms up. It does go away if we throttle up to 5 grand and decelerate in 2nd gear. Carbon? Or, cam/lifter?

AJxtcman
05-14-07, 09:51 PM
it almost seems like when i get into the throttle it eats coolant or spits it out the overflow(ive seen the overflow dripping but not enough to warrant the amount of coolant lost) i tried the heater today at midrange on the temp gauge in cool weather and the air came out hot unlike yesterday. im a little bit of a novice when it comes to newer cars, should i check cylinder pressure to see if thats were all of my coolants going? Also the tickin doesent always happen, just at random times (hot or cold).

Go to napa and get a block test kit. It is used to check head gaskets. use the kit to find out youe head gaskets are blow and your head bolts pulled loose. Then you will need Timeserts, but they don't work so well in 99 and prior blocks so then you will need to get some of Norms inserts. They are the best.