: Annoying Hubcap Noise and more

04-30-07, 08:59 PM
92 Brougham 5.7L 173000KMS Pleas help again!!!

When I drive next to walls, or even normally on the street, I hear this noise with the turning of my wheels not engine. It goes like zip...zip...zip...zip...zip squeaking tick noise. I removed my wire wheel hubcaps, and its quiet as hell. What can I do? I did a search here, and it said to put rtv or lube somewhere or something. I don't even know what rtv is.

I have a sweaty oil pan, that drips a bit ever so often. Where can this be comming from?

There are 2 little holes (on top and bottom) of the water pump. The bottom hole is leaking very little sometimes. Why is this?

When I first start in the morning, I hear 2-3 little poping sounds when I push the gas from initial takeoff. It goes away after a bit of driving. Sounds like it's comming from the front suspension or something. I have changed many pieces in front (shocks, sleeve, tie rod ends...)

Pros/cons of aluminum vs regular 2 or 3 core radiators.

I was hearing pinging under load, I went to my mechanic to check the timing. He didnt use a gun. He plugged some gage on my intake near the TBI, and played with the distributor by turing it. What is that? My timing was too advanced (I always run supreme 91). He retarded it just a bit. He told me that its a bit advanced than stock now. Pinging went away. hope timing is not too retarded...Do I have to change Knock sensor?? Where is it?

Many thanks again

04-30-07, 10:45 PM
Your wire wheel covers need to be cleaned, oiled, and tightened properly. The wheels are steel and the covers are aluminum. If they're not tight they flex differently and thus the squeak.

You'll only have to change your knock sensor if it's gone bad. You'll be getting codes 42, 43, or both up the ass if you've got a problem with your knock sensor or spark advance. Find another mechanic and have him properly time the engine, or go to the parts store and borrow theirs and DIY, it takes 5 minutes, literally.

05-03-07, 10:44 AM
A little silicone will eliminate clicking noise with caps.

05-03-07, 01:31 PM
ok.thanks ..where exactly do i put the sillecone?

05-03-07, 02:26 PM

My check engine light is burned..is there any other way to check these codes???

05-03-07, 04:40 PM
Hold down "OFF" and "WARMER" for a second or two. The climate control display will go nuts. Then, press "WARMER" until the screen shows "01". Now press "OUTSIDE TEMP". Every time you press it, it will show a different code, if you have any. Write them down and post them here.

05-04-07, 10:22 AM
90Brougham350, I did as you said. Thanks.

This is what happens. I pressed off and warmer at the same time, climate control display went nuts for a second as you said, and then it just shows numbers 132. When I press Warmer, it does not show me number 01. When I press Outside Temp, it just shows -00. It does not change no matter how many times I press it.

05-04-07, 01:03 PM
Shit, my mistake. Once you've held down "OFF" and "WARMER" and gotten into diagnostic mode, you use the "INCREASE FAN SPEED" button to get to "01". Sorry about my error.

05-04-07, 11:32 PM
90Brougham350, I did what you said, and I got code 23.

05-05-07, 09:27 AM
First, please call me Brian, it's easier than typing out my handle, lol.

Code 23 is an "open MAT sensor circuit fault" code. The MAT sensor has probably just gone bad.

This link helps alot.


05-05-07, 11:01 AM
Thanks Brian,

What is a MAT sensor? According to my Haynes, it sais that "low manifold air temp". Where is this sensor and what does it do???

05-06-07, 07:00 PM
any help on the other questions ? ?

05-06-07, 10:52 PM
Unfortunately, my service manual is at my parent's house, and I'm still at school for 6 more days. But from what I remember, the MAT is the little sensor that sits inside the air cleaner, only 2 or 3 wires coming from it. This is just memory though, I could be totally wrong. Might be best for someone else to chime in.