03-29-04, 02:18 AM
As you know the factory exhaust system is pretty restrictive..I mean my bros. 5.0 'stang comes stock with 2 x 2 1/4" pipes But my 6.0 exits into one 2 1/2" to the muffler where it exits at 2". I just sort of remidied some of the dilemna today. My buddy has a 4100 which the previous owned killed the exhaust after the cat, it sounds pretty mean. I did almost the same but just removed the muffler back.. It sounds realllly mean, a bit too much. But it's breathing much better now. This isn't my final solution. I'm planning on having the entire exhaust redone, the Y pipe off the headers is cracking anyway. I want dual exhaust but I want to exit in front of the wheels so the tips wont scape. My question is what would be my best option (mufflers, pipe diameter, etc) for power and a nice sounding rumble?
Thanks for the input.
03-29-04, 07:06 PM
Sound is all personal preference......I like the sound of Flowmasters...other people don't. Some people like glasspacks......I don't. Just depend on what you like. As far as power in a muffler........Dynomax (not sure which one) is supposed to be one of the best.
If the engine is stock, and going to stay pretty much stock, 2.25" duals should be fine.
Just remember, the closer to the front of the car the tailpipes exit, the louder it will be in the car. If you want to keep it as quiet as possible inside, take the tailpipes all the way to the back and exit them straight out the rear.
03-30-04, 10:17 PM
The factory exhaust manifolds are restrictive too, so as long as you're at it, you might want to consider some SS auto chrome headers. They're around $125-150 a set last time I checked on ebay, or $300 from ssautochrome.com.
03-31-04, 12:52 AM
The factory exhaust manifolds are restrictive too, so as long as you're at it, you might want to consider some SS auto chrome headers. They're around $125-150 a set last time I checked on ebay, or $300 from ssautochrome.com.Those headers are block huggers (fit close to the engine) and dump straight down. Most block huggers are made for street rods where there is no cross-member behind the motor mounts. They may not allow enough room to connect the exhaust in many applications.
03-31-04, 03:04 AM
The auction says "FITS BASICALLY ALL CADDY'S 425-500," I Didn't realise that his was a 368 until now, but it should still fit. It would only take a look under the car to see though.
03-31-04, 09:32 AM
Those headers should bolt up to any 368, 425, 472 or 500 engine. My concern is whether or not they will fit the chassis. They definitely won't work on a FWD car. I'm not going to say that they won't work on a RWD car (because I don't know for sure without trying) but I think if you look, the cross-member will cause interference in RWD applications. Besides that, headers are not the best choice for a daily driver....especially one without engine mods. They rust out easily, they require attention to the bolt torque (unless extra money is spent on special fasteners), they can raise the under-hood temperature, they make more noise under the hood than stock manifolds, etc.
Lots of down sides.....the only up side is they may flow better.
03-31-04, 08:31 PM
I said consider, not go out and buy.
06-27-04, 02:04 AM
Just FYI, the SS Auto Chrome headers I bought didn't fit my 1974 Coupe Deville with a 472. I bought a new set of motor mounts, though, and I'm looking into getting them extended to allow the headers to clear the crossmember. They only need about 0.5-1.0 inches of room to clear.