: Water Pump Drive Pulley Removal



Zorb750
03-27-07, 10:33 PM
Ok... I'm working on a FWD Northstar engine, space is unlimited as it is on an engine stand. How do I removal the water pump pulley from the intake camshaft on the even (front) side? I've removed these things before but this one will NOT come off. I've hit it with about 8 kinds of penetrating oil, I don't want to warp the camshaft so I'm not going to heat it excessively.

Last time, all I did was put a small puller onto the ring at the outer side of the hub of the pulley (hub is metal, pulley is plastic), and off it came.

Any better suggestions?

Raze
03-28-07, 06:47 AM
naa, yeah like you said, clamp on the inner metal portion, just borrow a pulley removal kit from Autozone, Advance, NAPA, otherwise get a larger pulley remover with more arms (the 3-4 variety) and just clamp on the plastic, it'll come off and even if you break it they're not expensive to replace...

eldorado1
03-28-07, 09:20 AM
Rent a power steering pulley puller from Autozone (or Advance). It will slip on the metal collar and won't break anything.

Once they snap they'll slip right off (relatively speaking)

Zorb750
03-28-07, 12:00 PM
Power steering pulley puller. Ok. Will try that. I assume it has a fixed jaw size?

eldorado1
03-28-07, 03:03 PM
yes, it just slips on the collar. It will look something like this:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/pspump/psp-2.jpg

clarkz71
04-04-07, 12:13 PM
It takes the same puller as the p/s pump pully.

z06bigbird
04-09-07, 10:14 PM
Good luck.

Ed

RickyHenry
04-26-08, 02:04 PM
naa, yeah like you said, clamp on the inner metal portion, just borrow a pulley removal kit from Autozone, Advance, NAPA, otherwise get a larger pulley remover with more arms (the 3-4 variety) and just clamp on the plastic, it'll come off and even if you break it they're not expensive to replace...

not expensive to replace? try $65 to replace the plastic pulley. I broke mine just now... the junk yard wants $125!!!! for one.

David Olinger
01-24-11, 01:51 PM
How do you get the pully back on once u get it removed? I am changing the belt, pump, and pully right now. Got everything disassembled but the pully is 40 bucks and I don't want to have to buy a new one by breaking it by beating it back on...any suggestions?

tateos
01-24-11, 03:32 PM
http://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-remover-and-installer-set-40749.html

Submariner409
01-24-11, 03:47 PM
How do you get the pully back on once u get it removed? I am changing the belt, pump, and pully right now. Got everything disassembled but the pully is 40 bucks and I don't want to have to buy a new one by breaking it by beating it back on...any suggestions?

Don't even come close to trying to force the pulley onto that intake cam snout. You'll be buying a whole new left head valvetrain if you do.

Use either the GM pulley removal/install tools ($300), the posted Harbor Freight (or NAPA store) power steering pulley kit, or use a proper size/length metric bolt, greased washers, and nut to press the pulley back with the hub flush with the end of the cam snout. I assume the Torx-headed plastic cam protector button is removed. Look at the diagram for the idea of how to press the pulley back onto the cam.

Ranger
01-24-11, 04:10 PM
:yeah:

I'll echo that warning. Beat it on and a replacement pulley will be the least of your worries. :tisk:

RippyPartsDept
01-24-11, 05:00 PM
FYI folks:
#3535846 - $53.36 (GM List price) -- $39 (forum member discount price)

tjohnson20
04-05-11, 09:52 AM
Does anybody know the size of the bolt needed to press the Cam Pulley back on the Cam shaft? I plan on using a bolt and washers as noted.

Submariner409
04-05-11, 10:53 AM
The bolt measures to be 7.94mm - probably an 8mm bolt, fine or medium pitch thread.

JohnnyGauge
11-20-11, 05:25 PM
I am currently trying to remove the pulley on the camshaft. I rented a 3 prong pulley remover. The pulley itself is chewed up from the water pump pulley seizing up. The prongs are slipping off the pulley. Is it safe to dremel the plastic off the inner metal portion and use the pulley remover to pull the metal portion off?

Ranger
11-20-11, 10:14 PM
OMG! DO NOT use a 3 jaw puller. Didn't you read the first 15 posts?

Submariner409
11-21-11, 04:23 PM
I am currently trying to remove the pulley on the camshaft. I rented a 3 prong pulley remover. The pulley itself is chewed up from the water pump pulley seizing up. The prongs are slipping off the pulley. Is it safe to dremel the plastic off the inner metal portion and use the pulley remover to pull the metal portion off?

This ^^^^ is an identical post to a new thread that he started - the two threads are now close together, both refer to water pump drive pulleys, and no, he didn't read the rest of the thread.

houster2002
07-27-12, 12:08 AM
What is so wrong with a key way and a bolt or a slotted shaft for this pulley to attached to the cam shaft someone give me 5 Min's alone with the Northstar engineers they need 32 punches in the face each!!!!!!!
Remember when you could remove 6 or 8 bolts and change a valve cover gasket. Not to mention pulling the motor and separateing the transaxle just to drop the oil pan these guys got it comming to them. This engine is over enginered and is sicking that its an American!!!!!

Ps The thing thats burning me up is the guy washed his car often and pressured washed his motor. This caused water to get into the top of the head and rust the little bit of steel in under the valve cover causing the pickup tube screen to clog and caused the pressure relife valve to be stuck open hence loss of oil pressure. Normally undoing the motor mounts and droping the pan would fix this or a easier valve cover removal may have prevented it. But NO!!! Drop the motor remove transaxel and a pile of parts and gaskets to boot and BTW no bolt holes in a Harminoic Ballancer WTF!!!! SO GM / Caddy nice job sell a pretty car that people want to wash and have it cause a $3,500 to $4,000 dollar repair now thats thinking PROFIT!!!! Why did we bail these guys out again please remind me!!!!!

RippyPartsDept
07-27-12, 09:07 AM
:wave: nice rant :welcome:

1 - don't pressure wash your engine bay... i wouldn't even recommend spraying a garden hose in the engine bay ... just too risky

2 - the northstar was introduced to the world 20 years ago in 1992 for the 1993 allante - it was a lotus 32 valve DOHC design that GM had been working with (first with the Corvette LT5 engine) ... it was and probably still is one of the most technically complex V8s GM has ever made.

3 - luxury cars will require luxury repairs ... just because it's not worth $50,000 anymore doesn't mean the repairs will get cheaper too

4 - would you really rather GM had stuck with the HT engines???

Submariner409
07-27-12, 09:40 AM
My, oh my ! :helpless:

The water pump drive pulley pulls off and presses onto the cam snout quickly and easily using either the GM shop tools or a slightly modified P/S pump pulley puller and a metric bolt/nut/stack of greased washers.

Too bad the OP never worked on '50s and '60s Jaguars, MGs, Austin Healeys - and don't mention Ferrari or Lamborghini.........or anything with a Lucas electrical "system".

BTW - Welcome Aboard !!! :welcome:

Seville-SLS-Lover
04-21-13, 09:27 AM
Yeah ive heard horror storys of that famous "Lucas Electrical System. :banghead:

Getting ready to do this Water Pump job today.
Wish me luck... I'll probably need it :cookoo:

jeffrsmith
04-25-13, 12:26 PM
Yes, Lucas Electrical. Just the mention brings back fond memories of my Triumph TR6.

For the Water Pump job, just make absolute certain that the cartridge removal tool properly engages the tabs on the pump. This can be a horrendous job if you cannot get the removal tool properly engaged.

Derek79
08-10-14, 09:34 PM
What metal tube is connected to the throttle body that is in the way of removing the drive pulley and is it safe to remove it.

----------

You can also go to autozone and rent one for 43 bucks but that tube in front of the pulley that's connected to the throttle body is worrying me. Is it safe to remove?

rodnok01
08-10-14, 10:15 PM
Should start your own post but...
The pipe is Egr tube. Use caution as not to bend or break it but yes can remove.

skibumstevo
02-01-17, 06:41 PM
Sorry to awaken a somewhat old thread, but I was wondering how the pulley can be evaluated for replacement? I intend to do the water pump in the next couple weeks...decided to throw a new tensioner on for good measure while I'm at it...but would prefer to not go as deep as the pulley unless it really needs to be changed. :/ Any advice would be appreciated!

Submariner409
02-01-17, 07:08 PM
If the large water pump drive pulley looks good with no obvious nicks or breaks - don't fix it.

The tensioner pulley - not the entire tensioner arm assembly - can be easily replaced witha $24 pulley/bearing from either RockAuto (your make, year, model, belt drive, the 3-rib small pulley) or a NAPA store.

Ranger
02-01-17, 08:54 PM
About the ONLY time the drive pulley gets replaced is if the tensioner pulley seizes and the belt melts the drive pulley.

skibumstevo
02-02-17, 11:28 AM
Thanks for the info...the drive pulley looks alright, but I'll inspect closely for cracks once I get all the surrounding stuff off there. And I 100% agree, normally the tensioner wouldn't need replacement, just the idler pulley...but the tensioner on there is aftermarket (from some previous repair I didn't do) and has a chunk of the metal broken off. No idea how that could have happened, but it's clearly not in good shape. Found a factory original ACDelco assembly on Amazon for $85, so just decided it would be better to return the water-works to "stock".

Submariner409
02-02-17, 12:28 PM
The original water pump belt drive tensioner entire assembly by Gates (an OEM supplier) is $40 and the AC Delco (made by several different suppliers) is $51 in RockAuto.

The AC Delco listed for $90 is a ripoff. You may find that the several different assemblies are all made in Canada - as was my original on the STS - notice the origin of the assembly that is currently on my garage shelf.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1999,seville,4.6l+v8,1352922,belt+drive,b elt+tensioner,11659

skibumstevo
02-04-17, 01:34 PM
With all due respect, the ACDelco OEM tensioner through RockAuto is $90.75 (plus shipping). Amazon is $85.42 with free shipping. Here are the links:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=12555153
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q13AZS

I don't buy aftermarket parts unless OEM is no longer available or more than 3x as much. The cost savings is trivial compared the R&R time and piece of mind knowing everything is stock. Regardless, I appreciate your perspective and info.

Submariner409
02-04-17, 03:35 PM
Although it appears that your mind is made up, FWIW I work behind the parts counter part time at our local Western (Tire &) Auto store. I can tell you that the Gates/DAYCO and a couple of other tensioner brands are original equipment parts. AC Delco does not make these tensioners - they are sourced from contractors. (I did post that the $90 tensioner listed as "OEM" was the second one branded as AC Delco.)

If you go to the RockAuto site, callup the tensioners in Belt Drive, click INFO for each, and hover over the enlarged pictures of the $39 Gates and $51 Delco water pump tensioner pulleys you'll see that the pulley part numbers embossed on the black grease seals are identical. The $90 Delco tensioner is made in Canada and is identical to the $51 item.

AC Delco does not make the spark plugs for our cars, either - they are made and branded by DENSO in Japan. Read the box.

Our AC Delco water pumps come from Canada or China; our fuel system injectors and pressure controls come from Robert Bosch in Germany .......... and on and on.

Your choice - it's your wallet. Just tryin' to save you a buck or two ..........

Submariner409
02-05-17, 09:46 AM
I'm currently at work .......... the water pump tensioner pulleys with the black grease seals are made in China. The pulleys with the orange grease seals are made by SKF, Fafnir, New Departure , others.

Here'a a replacement pulley only - RockAuto. Gates part number. Same SKF pulley as in my picture of the failed original pulley in Posts 27 and 30.