: which plug is right?



jgr7
03-23-04, 12:13 AM
Hi all, I think this board is great. First a little background I just bought a 94 Eldorado from my mother-inlaw for $1200, 135k miles body is all but perfect as is most of the whole car. I wanted to put new plugs and wires in before I get it smoged, so I go to the cady dealer and get the parts and take them home. I take out the wires and they are the wrong ones, standard wires not for a through the valve cover. I check the plugs and they are AC delco 41-902, the owners manual said they should be 41-900, at $8.44 each I decide to call Autozone and see what they have, they tell me that the oem plug is an 41-950 for $7.96. I go out to the car and pull a plug and it has the 41-950. My mother inlaw told me she had a mech. at the place she worked at do the 100k tune up so i'm guessing he went to the auto parts store and got plugs. The 41-950 are the double platinum however they have a smaller center electrode. I called the dealer back and talk to another guy and he tells me that indeed the plugs and wires are both wrong. Can some one tell me what plugs you would use, are the 41-950 ok? Also two fo the plugs had some oil around them when I pulled them out, not a lot but it was there. also thetwo closest to the front of the engine were kind of gray not white like the two in the back. My mother inlaw used regular gas instead of premium too will this cause any problems? I will be using premium from know on.

Also have a S044 history code can someone tell me what that is.

Thanks Jeff

LCLCLC
03-23-04, 01:48 AM
Good questions. I've recently bought a 97 Deville, and have same question about 41-900 (owners manual) and 41-950 (Autozone, O'Reilly's) recommendation.

BeelzeBob
03-23-04, 01:57 PM
Either are OK. The dual platinum plugs have been sourced from several different manufacturers over the years and imporvements to the plug have been made. You are just looking at the ungraded part numbers.

No sense in replacing any dual platinum plug regardless of miles if it is clean and not fouled and both the platinum pads are in place. Pull the plug and look. The tiny platinum pads are very evident on both the cente electrode and the ground electrode. As long as the pad is there the plug is fine . Those plugs will run for hundreds of thousands of miles as long as the platinum pads stay in place (eventually they will fatigue and start to disappear....). Replacing them is really a waste of money and will not help anything at all.

On the 94.....search using the site search feature using "phenolic spacer plates" and read up. That is what you need to do before an emission check. That and the "fuel pressure regulator".... Plug wires might be a good idea but usually the plug wires are pretty robust as long as they are not abraded or broken by pulling them off the plugs/coils. Check each plug wire for continuity/resistence and the presence of the metal terminals inside each boot at each end. Spray a mist of water over the plug wires with a spray bottle in a dark place with the engine running and watch for arcs and sparks. If there is a break in a plug wire then that will show it.

The 94 needed very frequent coolant system maintenance to keep the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant up to strength to prevent internal engine damage due to corrosion. Drain the cooling system and refill with fresh 50/50 coolant/distilled water. It needed/needs that at least every 2-3 years/24-35K miles. Use the conventional green silicated coolant and distilled water and install the GM coolant supplement (sealer) or the BarsLeaks "golden seal" powder in the radiator hose when doing the coolant refresh. Search for "coolant supplement" and read up.

On the 94 check the water pump drive belt (at the rear of the engine on a separate small belt off the inlet cam pulley) and the water pum belt tenioner. Make sure the belt is good and the tensioner moves freely. Lube the tensioner pivot and exercise the tensioner.

A 94 is probably also due for a brake fluid purging/bleeding and a trans fluid change when you get around to it. Search in the archives for "trans fluid change" (do NOT flush the trans...just change the fluid).


Spend some time reading thru the back posts as there is a ton of info on "tuneups" and such in there. When reading archival info be aware that your 94 is a bit unique in that the 93/94 Northstars had the large intake with the silver top cover acting as part of the manifold. The 95 and later Northstars had a different manifold, a one piece plastic intake, that used the silver top cover only as a beauty shield....so don't be confused about some of the comments.

The use of regular didn't hurt anything. Using premium will assure you the most power and fuel economy as the engine was tuned and optimized for premium....but the knock sensor will have protected it against any detonation from the regular.

jgr7
03-24-04, 12:52 AM
Thanks for all the info bbobynski, I have read many of your post and feel very fortunate to have found this form with you and so many others with all the knowledge to share:worship: .
I did the plugs and wires tonight and also got the front end up in the air to look where the oil leak is comming from. It is dripping, no running out of the pan in about 6 or 7 places in the front and front sides of the engine. The oil filter adapter is not leaking nor is the lower case. It looks like I will have to drop the pan and fix this as it is running out pretty fast.
Is there any thing else I should do while I'm inside the pan?:hmm:

Thanks again Jeff

BeelzeBob
03-24-04, 01:08 AM
Thanks for all the info bbobynski, I have read many of your post and feel very fortunate to have found this form with you and so many others with all the knowledge to share:worship: .
I did the plugs and wires tonight and also got the front end up in the air to look where the oil leak is comming from. It is dripping, no running out of the pan in about 6 or 7 places in the front and front sides of the engine. The oil filter adapter is not leaking nor is the lower case. It looks like I will have to drop the pan and fix this as it is running out pretty fast.
Is there any thing else I should do while I'm inside the pan?:hmm:

Thanks again Jeff

I would clean off all the oil underneath with brakeclean or some other solvent and double check the leak source. It is pretty uncommon for an oil pan to leak that badly.... this is a Northstar, right??...if so you can't get the pan off with the engine in the car.... You might try snugging the oil pan bolts to make sure that they are tight. No need to reef on them....just make sure they are snug. Otherwise, if it really is the pan, you might be able to drain the oil, loosen all the oil pan fasteners, clean the gap at the pan to block interface and pack some RTV/silicone seal into the gap around the perimeter of the pan interface before retightening the bolts to pull the oil pan back into place. Let the RTV cure 24 hours before refilling with oil to let it cure completely before it sees oil as that is the most common mistake with RTV that causes it to not seal up. Make positively sure that the oil filter adapter to block is not the leak source. The o-ring seals between the oil filter adapter and the block will harden with time and miles and that, and the oil cooler lines/fittings, are the most common source for oil leaks actually.

jgr7
03-24-04, 02:09 AM
I was looking for the adapter leak when went under, the pan was very oily under the crank pully and not by the adapter. I took some spray parts cleaner and cleaned what I could then started the engine and sure enough oil was comming out out of the pan on both sides of the crank and around the sides also. in a couple of minutes I had a small puddle on the ground.
Jeff

BeelzeBob
03-24-04, 10:37 AM
I was looking for the adapter leak when went under, the pan was very oily under the crank pully and not by the adapter. I took some spray parts cleaner and cleaned what I could then started the engine and sure enough oil was comming out out of the pan on both sides of the crank and around the sides also. in a couple of minutes I had a small puddle on the ground.
Jeff


Did you check the bolts for tightness??

A dripping leak like that from the oil pan is pretty unusual..!! There is no oil pressure per se behind the pan seal and the oil level is below the oil pan gasket so there is really nothing to cause an active leak that would drip like that around the oil pan seal...it is just splash oiling to seal in that area. The oil pan seals to the oil distribution plate...not directly to the block. You might look carefully at the joint. You will see a thin aluminum plate between the oil pan flange and the block...that is the oil distribution plate. Make sure to determine whether the leak is at the oil pan flange to the oil dist. plate OR between the oil distribution plate and the block.

dloch
03-24-04, 01:01 PM
Did you check the bolts for tightness??

A dripping leak like that from the oil pan is pretty unusual..!! There is no oil pressure per se behind the pan seal and the oil level is below the oil pan gasket so there is really nothing to cause an active leak that would drip like that around the oil pan seal...it is just splash oiling to seal in that area. The oil pan seals to the oil distribution plate...not directly to the block. You might look carefully at the joint. You will see a thin aluminum plate between the oil pan flange and the block...that is the oil distribution plate. Make sure to determine whether the leak is at the oil pan flange to the oil dist. plate OR between the oil distribution plate and the block.
I'd be willing to bet it may be coming from the area where the oil distribution plate to LCC meet. One side would leak more than the other side if thats the case, wouldn't it? If memory serves me the front side is the pressurized area of the plate, is it not?

BeelzeBob
03-24-04, 02:32 PM
I'd be willing to bet it may be coming from the area where the oil distribution plate to LCC meet. One side would leak more than the other side if thats the case, wouldn't it? If memory serves me the front side is the pressurized area of the plate, is it not?

Yes , there is pressurized oil behind the distribution plate seal on the left (front) side of the engine. It is still pretty rare for the plate to leak there, though. If it leaks it will leak in the area where the exhaust crosses under the oil pan and goes close to the engine block on the other end and other side.

jgr7
03-24-04, 08:04 PM
I did check all the 10mm bolts on the front of the engine and they were tight, the largest amount of oil was comming out on the right front side as you face the crank, and just to the right of the bottom of the crank pully. there was no drip until I started the car and it 2 min. it was hitting the floor.
I'll see if I have time tonight to get back under the greasy beast:hmm: and clean it up a little more and let you guys know what I find.
Thanks so much for the input.
Jeff