: Bose subwoofer replacement - Info request



RockinV
03-07-07, 01:21 PM
I am about to ask an old question…please don’t yell back at me with any “Search is your friend” :rant2:replies... I have done plenty of searches on the topic and have seen a bunch of really awesome installs… but, I am still coming up short on a simplified answer to my question:confused:…
(and the fact that all the radio wiring guides have been removed from the FAQ is no help either)

I installed an aftermarket mono amplifier and a small sub enclosure to replace the Bose sub in my 2005 CTS-v….
It is a very simple install -
I ran the power wire up to the battery, ground to the same bolt as the Bose amp, the remote turn on to the climate control fuse under the back seat, and disconnected the Bose sub and used that as my “speaker level” inputs into the amp.

But I was told that using the rear speaker inputs into a simple “speaker level to RCA converter” and then RCA inputs from that into the amplifier will provide much better sound…I just don’t know which wires at the factory Bose amp are the rear speaker inputs.

Can any one give me any advice…(in very simple language, pls) as to:
Which wires coming from the Bose amp are the rear speaker inputs or any alternative solutions?
Thank much for any info

nikon
03-07-07, 01:55 PM
i believe this was discussed before and that the conclusion was that the rear speakers although would giver a 'nicer' sound, didn't carry the whole sound spectrum....so you'd be missing a bunch of notes...the reason that you don't hear of people complaining about that much anymore is because the guys that are really into it just installed a cleansweep and were done with it........now a quick question for you...since I wanna do basically the same setup you have is how does is sound just coming from the sub leads??? and did you leave the stock sub in place? or remove it to get the sound in the car?? because my idea is to leave the stock sub in place and do a simple 2 pole switch to turn it from completly stock to re-routing the sound to the aftermarket sub...it's a JL 500-1 so it'll turn on/off by it-self....

heavymetals
03-07-07, 02:03 PM
The amount of distortion will not change attenuating the speaker level to a line level.

I use the same type of setup on my replacement sub.

The reason for the external attenuator is to match up the level to an amplifier that has no "speaker level" input.

GMBOUND
03-07-07, 03:54 PM
I currently have a JLW710 in my Grand Prix. Has anyone tried replacing the factory 10 with a W7 or other speaker using the trunk as a box (free air)? How does it sound? I have two 500-1, one I haven't used yet.

ssmith100
03-07-07, 04:18 PM
The rear door speakers are not a full range signal. The "only" signal in the car that covers the bandwidth from 20 to 100 hrtz is the subwoofer signal going to the factory Bose sub. For the best input signal possible I "would not" use an LOC going to the aftermarket amp. I have my signal to both my JL amplifiers speaker level (Bose amp) to preamp level into both my JL amps and the signal is fine. Not the cleanest or strongest, but it works fine. To be honest for us all that are running aftermarket amplifiers the best thing to do would be for us to be using either a CleanSweep, 3sixty, Audio Control DQL-8 or the new Alpine PXE-H650. I had the 3sixty in my car for a while and it worked great cleaning up the signal. I'm leaning now more toward the Alpine or the Audio Control piece. All the guys running the new Audio Control piece have been raving about it. I would have replied with "search is your friend":stirpot: but I was feeling generous today.:)

Shane

nikon
03-07-07, 05:21 PM
one thing, how are you guys hooking up the power wire to the battery?? one of those little side terminal things with an extra bolt on it??

heavymetals
03-07-07, 06:06 PM
one thing, how are you guys hooking up the power wire to the battery?? one of those little side terminal things with an extra bolt on it??


Under the rear seat there are two 8 guage (?) wires that run to the fuse boxes there.

I tapped into those.

RockinV
03-07-07, 06:18 PM
now a quick question for you...since I wanna do basically the same setup you have is how does is sound just coming from the sub leads???

It sounds pretty descent… I think if I wired in a remote bass control knob I would be a lot happier...some songs sound awesome… but then the next song will come on and it will sound rather disappointing. So maybe if I had active sub control it would be better.



...and did you leave the stock sub in place? or remove it to get the sound in the car??
I left it in place but it is coming out as soon as I get around to digging down to it again...I can hear it rattling a little when I turn up a song with alot of bass. I plan on removing it and just putting some black fabric across the hole and gluing it down. That will probably improve the sound also.

RockinV
03-07-07, 06:24 PM
To be honest for us all that are running aftermarket amplifiers the best thing to do would be for us to be using either a CleanSweep, 3sixty, Audio Control DQL-8 or the new Alpine PXE-H650. I had the 3sixty in my car for a while and it worked great cleaning up the signal.

Thanks for the info...I will just leave it hooked up to the factory sub wires for now... and wire up a remote knob so I have active control over the sub level.
But I will definitely be looking into those suggestions you gave.

RockinV
03-07-07, 06:29 PM
I would have replied with "search is your friend":stirpot: but I was feeling generous today.:)

Shane

I am glad I caught ya in a good mood:o.
I really hate being scolded!:hitstick:

THaNks:D

RockinV
03-07-07, 06:38 PM
one thing, how are you guys hooking up the power wire to the battery?? one of those little side terminal things with an extra bolt on it??
I actually drilled a hole into the corner of the fuse box in front of the battery and bolted the amp wire onto the main power terminal coming from the battery. Really for no other reason than I didn't have a aftermarket side terminal for the battery lying around.:elvis2:

nikon
03-07-07, 08:12 PM
Under the rear seat there are two 8 guage (?) wires that run to the fuse boxes there.

I tapped into those.

how big of an amp are you runnin off those wires??? I'll prolly just get the proper battery terminal, but this would be a nice, easy alternative.

heavymetals
03-07-07, 09:05 PM
how big of an amp are you runnin off those wires??? I'll prolly just get the proper battery terminal, but this would be a nice, easy alternative.


KENWOOD KAC8402 for the front and rear speakers (JBL).

BAJA HA700M to power the subwoofer (INFINITY 1040W).

If I turn it up enough it even drowns out the B&B!:thumbsup:

ssmith100
03-07-07, 11:31 PM
You can make room for a circuit breaker and use a GM Batt tap at the battery. I've got 0 guage running to the back of my car configured like the pic. The below pic is an old pic with just the 4 gauge. I modified the red plastic cover to still fit on the Chrome batt tap. I would highly recommend running whatever power wire you are going to use staight to the battery.

Shane

nikon
03-08-07, 06:21 PM
^^ ya I figured as much..was it a PITA to get it through the firewall?? I'm only gonna run 4ga.....sorry for the thread jack ;)

I just figure It wont cost me any money since it's out of my tahoe...oh ya, sorry another thing..am I safe putting a self tapper in the trunk floor to hold the box in place? or will I nail a gas tank or something??

ctsvett
03-12-07, 01:15 AM
you can pull power from the rear fuse block as well and have it go off with the radio/ RAP.

Not the easiest procedure, but it works!

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/amprap/


Reed