: Cost of a half-case reseal ?



codewize
02-28-07, 09:04 PM
Ok so we've discussed this a few times but has anyone here had a half-case seal done? If so what was the cost? Was it at a dealer?

I'm only wondering because I think mine leaks and I want to know if I should plan to fix it.

The book is a little deceiving because it calls for 10 hrs of labor but then it says not including engine removal. Does it include engine replacement?

I just want to know what the bottom line is on the job. 10 hrs is $750 in my world. People talk like it's a $3000 job or something.

Ranger
02-28-07, 09:22 PM
Dealer did my '97 just before the warranty ran out. I want to say they told me 20 hrs or so. Roughly $2000 as I recall.

codewize
02-28-07, 09:54 PM
Wow 2k is a lot. If it's that much it can wait a while. I think.

Ranger
02-28-07, 10:06 PM
The engine has to be pulled to do it, hence the high cost. If it is just s little seepage, I'd live with it.

codewize
02-28-07, 10:11 PM
Well you may remember form another thread that I have not positively located the leak. I personally think it's either that or the rear main seal. The oil is slowly dripping onto the exhaust crossover. Where the transaxile brace is.

It's very difficult to see up there.

Ranger
02-28-07, 10:21 PM
Have you ruled out the pan gasket?

codewize
02-28-07, 10:39 PM
Well interestingly enough I think I have. That I can see pretty well and it didn't look like it was wet from itself. It looked to be wet only from oil coming down on it.

Probably not much cheaper to do though is it?

Ranger
02-28-07, 10:54 PM
No, but if it was a pan gasket, there is a "fix" that might slow it down to a tolerable level.

clarkz71
03-01-07, 05:51 AM
Dealer did my '97 just before the warranty ran out. I want to say they told me 20 hrs or so. Roughly $2000 as I recall.

I think 20 hrs is in the ball park.

blb
03-01-07, 11:31 AM
In 1996, the dealer charged GM, through warranty, $2358, to reseal the half case on my 1994 STS. GM claimed the problem had been corrected by model year 1996 and you wouldn't see the same issue thereafter. So, here we are in 2007, and the issue still persists at least up through the 1999 model year. Apparently, GM has taken the same position on this issue as they have on the headgasket issues.....it's not really a problem, and this is an acceptable level of quality to our customers.

blunted
03-02-07, 03:31 PM
I got quoted $800 out the door.. which I need to do ASAP before this smoke gives me cancer! :eek:

clarkz71
03-02-07, 04:54 PM
I got quoted $800 out the door.. which I need to do ASAP before this smoke gives me cancer! :eek:

I'd like to see that in writing. I wouldn't do that job on the side for $800.

Ranger
03-02-07, 07:46 PM
I suspect the guy who quoted that does not know what he is getting into. Get that quote in writing.

codewize
03-02-07, 11:57 PM
Yeah that sounds pretty low unless he didn't catch the footnote in the book where it specs 10 hr NOT INCLUDING ENGINE REMOVAL TIME.

blunted
03-05-07, 11:49 AM
No, that's from a shop that does these alllll day. In fact, when I called they were in the middle of timesertin a 94 Eldo. If you want, I'll give you guys the number and you can check it out. I saw another guy on here that got his halfcase resealed for $850. Not impossible, just improbable thanks to most shops adding the "well its a Northstar" fee.

clarkz71
03-05-07, 12:29 PM
Well, I just checked my Chilton labor guide and it calls for 17.8 hrs to do the re-seal. At $850 the shop is only charging $47.75 an hour and if that includes parts even less. I can only guess that the overhead is low otherwise they would be losing money. Not only that, but if they have a come back (casehalf still leaking) they will really lose money since they low balled the job to begin with.

codewize
03-05-07, 10:04 PM
Well I know both of my local dealer charge $85 /hr so that's just a little over $1500 plus parts. At a dealer, a little less at a third party shop of course.

Mountie
03-06-07, 03:13 AM
My Cadillac Dealer service friend stopped using the oil rings to seal. They use liquid rubber sealant instead. All's he works on is the North*. His good friend is Alan Johnson / CHRR.

Just a suggestion when or if you get the reseal.

codewize
03-06-07, 10:40 AM
That's interesting but I have to do this. All's is not a word. That's like saying 'those ones' or 'these ones'. It's just those or these. It would just be 'All he works on'

Totally improper English and I really wish kids wold stop using those phrases.

Sorry.

Thanks for the info. I wonder what the deal is with that.


My Cadillac Dealer service friend stopped using the oil rings to seal. They use liquid rubber sealant instead. All's he works on is the North*. His good friend is Alan Johnson / CHRR.

Just a suggestion when or if you get the reseal.

zonie77
03-06-07, 11:14 AM
blunted, where are you located?

blunted
03-09-07, 11:47 AM
New York Cityyyy

DocHemi
03-26-07, 10:18 PM
That's interesting but I have to do this. All's is not a word. That's like saying 'those ones' or 'these ones'. It's just those or these. It would just be 'All he works on'

Totally improper English and I really wish kids wold stop using those phrases.

Sorry.

Thanks for the info. I wonder what the deal is with that.


LOL I WOULD HAVE DONE IT IF YOU HADN'T:stirpot:

cadillacmike68
05-27-07, 01:00 AM
So here's another thread with discussion on the NorthStar case halves STILL leaking after the problem was supposedly corrected (before my model year) but of course NONE of this is official from GM.....

That and I'm still not sure exactyl where my leak is coming from...

Ranger, what's the inexpensive fix for a leaking oil pan gasket - if that turns out to be where my car is leaking? thanks.

codewize
05-27-07, 06:30 PM
I have never heard anything about the half-case leaking being addressed until 06. They went to a silicon sealer rather than a gasket. Up until 06 nothing in that respect changed.

The quick and dirty for the oil pan is to remove the bolts, drop the pan as far as you can. Wipe it dry and seal with silicone. Torque bolts to spec.

If it's not leaking profusely don't bother. If it is leaking profusely get it repaired the right way.

I created a new slogan at the Hooters meet last week.

If you buy a N* GET A WARRANTY. I cant even tell you how mush I stress that. Just spend the cash and have the safety net.


So here's another thread with discussion on the NorthStar case halves STILL leaking after the problem was supposedly corrected (before my model year) but of course NONE of this is official from GM.....

That and I'm still not sure exactyl where my leak is coming from...

Ranger, what's the inexpensive fix for a leaking oil pan gasket - if that turns out to be where my car is leaking? thanks.

Ranger
05-27-07, 06:34 PM
Pull the pan bolts, one at a time. Spray the bolt holes as well as the bolts with plenty of Brakleen. Blow out the bolt holes with compressed air. Use some Permatex thread sealer on the threads and reinstall them. That has been said to have helped greatly. I do not speak from experience though.

Ranger
05-27-07, 06:50 PM
The quick and dirty for the oil pan is to remove the bolts, drop the pan as far as you can. Wipe it dry and seal with silicone.
First off, I am not sure it is possible to drop the pan at all, even a 1/2 inch as some bolts I believe are inaccessible. That said, I would be VERY VERY careful with that procedure. Someone on this or the other board had to replace an engine. When it was torn down, they found silicone clogging the oil pump intake, which starved the bearings. I believe they also found silicone in the case joints so this exact "repair" was suspected. The previous owner probably attempted to fix the leak. I am not positive, but I want to say it was Chazglenn3.

cadillacmike68
05-27-07, 09:52 PM
First off, I am not sure it is possible to drop the pan at all, even a 1/2 inch as some bolts I believe are inaccessible. That said, I would be VERY VERY careful with that procedure. Someone on this or the other board had to replace an engine. When it was torn down, they found silicone clogging the oil pump intake, which starved the bearings. I believe they also found silicone in the case joints so this exact "repair" was suspected. The previous owner probably attempted to fix the leak. I am not positive, but I want to say it was Chazglenn3.

Ranger is correct, you Cannot get to all the bolts to drop the pan.

codewize
05-27-07, 10:29 PM
I withdraw my previous statement.

You definitely DON'T want top get silicone inside at all. I had that happen to me on a fuel line once. Someone did a quick repair and the pump sucked it up into the carb. Fortunately it was a Holly and I was able to rebuild it in the parking lot and be on my way.

I wasn't sure of the exact procedure that's been discussed int he past so I threw that our there. Sorry. :canttalk:

DON'T USE SILICONE.

Having said that I think we should have the mods add a sticky to the top of the page that says

'THERE IS NO EASY FIX FOR OIL LEAKS.' :)