07 Escalade,battery problems

[Super]

Does anybody have a picture of the install?

[Wes2]

If your having problems with your battery going dead, I would do this first!
I did a Google search on Test PIT4816 and found the following:
PIT4816: Multiple Electrical Concerns With DTC C0900 - keywords battery c/k cable clock crank cycle door dimming flicker gage gauge gmc hvac inop inoperative instrument ipc lock no panel power radio stall - (Feb 27, 2009)


Subject: Multiple Electrical Concerns With DTC C0900


Models: 2007 -2009 Cadillac Escalade, ESV, EXT

2007-2009 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2007-2009 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL

(Equipped with Gasoline Engines)




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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Some customer may experience one or all of the following concerns.

1) Intermittent No Crank or No Vehicle Power ( The customer may get the impression that the vehicle actually has a dead battery )

2) Volt gauge fluctuates, and seems to decrease when a high load accessory is turned on ie.. headlamps, wipers

3) IPC backlighting flickers or IPC goes blank

4) Diagnostic Code: B1325 set in several modules followed with a Dtc: C0900 set in the EBCM.

5) Radio clock resets

6) Intermittent Stall

7) Hvac temperature actuator defaults to hot

8) Door locks cycle

Recommendation/Instructions:
If you experience one or all of the following concerns and a cause for the concern can't be identified, please check the following items:

1) Remove the 175 amp Mega fuse and inspect for arcing, if any type of arcing is found replace the effected components.

2) When re-installing the 175 amp Mega fuse, torque fastners that attach the mega fuse to the positive cables to specification in SI.

2) Check the voltage drop reading on the positive and negative battery cables. The voltage drop should be performed with the fuel injectors disabled and while cranking the engine. The voltage drop should not exceed 200 Mv. If the voltage drop is above 200 Mv, replaced the effected cable.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

Since my cable going to the starter was replaced, I haven't had anymore problems, but it's only been a week. The week before the cable was replaced I wasn't sure if it would crank after I turned it off. The battery would some how bleed off. A jump was all I needed to start it back up. I don't think a second battery would have done me any good, unless if there was a way I could have removed it from the circuit and just connected it back up after the primary battery ran down.
Wes

[Wes2]

Well after having the Starter Cable replaced, I haven't had any more problems with finding a dead battery when I go to start it back up after shutting it off for awhile. So now my problem is that if I don't shut it down after I turn off the engine, than it starts having problems with enough power to crank it over. I did find the other day when it would not crank that after I got out and used the Remote Start it started right up. This is probably because a Remote Start doesn't turn on anything until it is started. Where when you get in all the lights internal and external, Nav. System and everything else comes ON. So to fix this problem I'm installing a second battery, would anyone care to share some pictures of their installation?
I did find the part numbers helpful from previous post but the negative cable part number has been changed.

Positive Battery Cable Part # 25825642
Old Negitive Battery Cable Part # 15888242
New Negitive Battery Cable Part # 25876896
Battery Retainer Part # 14005061
Battery retainer screw Part # 11509853

So any pictures on the hookup would be very helpful.
Thanks!
Wes

[hcvone]

If yours starts by remote and not be the key there must be something in the key wiring and or the key wiring and theft system, two batteries will do nothing for that, I first did this to guard against problems, and because I tow in cold strange places.

[Wes2]

I would think the key switch is okay, because it would try to crank but then it would stop trying to crank. All of this is control by the computer. No more switch to solenoid, the Key Switch is just that a switch, that tells the computer a request has been made to crank the engine. That's why you no longer have to hold the Key when cranking the engine.
Wes

[hcvone]

Originally Posted by Wes2

I would think the key switch is okay, because it would try to crank but then it would stop trying to crank. All of this is control by the computer. No more switch to solenoid, the Key Switch is just that a switch, that tells the computer a request has been made to crank the engine. That's why you no longer have to hold the Key when cranking the engine.
Wes

I do understand how these things work, something is cutting the power, either the switch or the theft system, and yes everything goes thru the computer. It maybe backfeeding thru the key switch and killing it too.

[CTS-V Racing]

Dual battery install pics.

1st second battery in place. Note that the red plastic cover comes with the cable, the black neg cover has to be ordered ($5).

Install.jpg

2nd negative cable installed. Note I purchased an extra bolt and attaced to an open threaded spot on the block.

Install 2.jpg

3rd Positive cable routing down under block. Sorry about the pic quality.

Install 4.jpg

4th Positive cable attached to plastic support already in place. There are two push fasteners on the OEM cable and two holes in the support all lined up. Nice to have the OEM, no thinking required.

install 3.jpg

5th Attaced to the starter, at the same place the 1st battery cable attaches. Stud is long enough, just remove the nut, slide the 90 degree bent connector on the stud and put the nut back on the stud. Done

install 5.jpg


Sorry about the quality of some of the pics. Just not enough room to get camera in place. This is a really simple install. Oh, I did remove the right front wheel to attach the pos cable to the starter as it was just a lot easier to get my hands in to do the work. Hope this helps those thinking about doing the upgrade.

[Super]

Thanks for the pics!

[Wes2]

Yes! Thanks for the pictures! Well I still don't know what's wrong with my Escalade, went to the Zoo came back home, parked it after putting on about 30 miles. Got up this morning went to do a remote start. Got a clunk sound as if the start started to turn over the engine, but nothing. Tried again and this time it wouldn't even attemp to crank, no clunk. So do I have a drain problem on the battery or is the battery not being fully charged. Without an Amp Meter being hooked up it'a a little hard to troubleshoot while going down the road. Or could it be something else?
Plus for now, I'm looking at the second batttery to only be used when I can't get it to crank over with the primary battery. This will be my back up, hate waiting over a half hour for a jump.

[Wes2]

Well it looks like to me I have a charging problem. Went down to Harbor Freight and picked up a 12 VDC Battery/Alternator Tester. Plugged it in the cigarette lighter socket and found system was showing Too Low on the Alternator. Than the next time I was driving it started showing Too High, so I called OnStar to run a daig. on my Escalade and they said they could not find anything wrong. I wasn't so sure what I was looking for so I plugged it into my 1994 C1500 and the Alternator Normal light stays on all the time while the engine is running. I know this isn't comparing apples to apples, but it does give me an idea how this Tester works.
So next I started checking the the voltages when the lights would come ON, sometimes after I would just start up and sometimes up to after 20 minutes of driving, is when the lights would change. When ever the Yellow light came ON, at the Cigarette Lighter it would read 12.8 volts or lower and when the Red light would come ON it would read around 14.9 volts. I would think this is too much of a change in voltage with the amount of electronics in it. These new vechiles have me lost, give me an Amp Meter on the dash any day to see the the charging system is doing.