Who has replaced their 02-06 shocks? Where can you buy a set at a resonable price?!?

tc3 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-17-07, 01:20 AM

I think I've got a leak in my rear shock. Compressor goes off too often, plus the boot looks torn.
Thinking of doing all 4.
Where can you buy a set without getting raped?!?
I've never heard of aftermarket?
Who has found the best solution?
THX

tc3 · #2 (**permalink**) 02-18-07, 06:33 PM

someone has done it?!?!

Caddydude420 · #3 (**permalink**) 02-20-07, 02:25 PM

The company mechanic told me $2500 to do them!!! It was going to be about the same on my parents Denali but they traded it in before.

worldpartsexpress.com has them for $282 a piece (MSRP of $451, i guess that's how the shops rape you)

The best I saw for OEM shocks was $700 for all 4 shocks on eBay. ($350 for rear only)

Can we use some aftermarkets for the front? I've seen some Rancho, Pro Comp and Bilstein on eBay. I've always felt that aftermarket has better performance and better price than OEM. Can anyone confirm this? Also, does anyone have instructions do do the rear shocks? Is it pretty straight forward just like any shock replacement or does the autoleveling feature really mess things up?

I wanted to bag the rear end because it seemed like it would come out to the same price but money is tight just buying the truck and the 24s for it.

Caddydude420 · #4 (**permalink**) 05-22-08, 03:11 AM

Bump^

My rear shocks are overdue, the compressor is kicking in a lot more than normal. I'll be getting the rear shocks from eBay.

While I'm at it, how can I tell if the front are bad? It's an 03 with 70k miles. I looked at all the papers I got with the truck and it doesn't look like they were ever replaced.

Does anyone know the answers to these:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caddydude420

The best I saw for OEM shocks was $700 for all 4 shocks on eBay. ($350 for rear only)

Can we use some aftermarkets for the front? I've seen some Rancho, Pro Comp and Bilstein on eBay. I've always felt that aftermarket has better performance and better price than OEM. Can anyone confirm this? Also, does anyone have instructions do do the rear shocks? Is it pretty straight forward just like any shock replacement or does the autoleveling feature really mess things up?

Thanks.

ZX_man · #5 (**permalink**) 05-22-08, 03:23 AM

There was a a thread on rear shocks a few weeks ago. One of the forum members suggested this site.

http://www.arnottindustries.com/part...id6_pid77.html

Walter

Caddydude420 · #6 (**permalink**) 05-22-08, 04:04 AM

I've been following those threads. eBay is still cheaper though: $350 for the rear set vs. $400. Thanks for the link though.

I'm really trying to get instructions for the replacement and info about the front shocks.

Caddydude420 · #7 (**permalink**) 06-12-08, 12:54 AM

Has anyone replaced the rear air ride shocks themselves or have the procedures for them?

Caddydude420 · #8 (**permalink**) 07-02-08, 01:09 AM

Does anyone know whats involved so I can have a heads up? I just got the shocks in today and plan on doing them sometime next week after camping. $350 with free shipping from eBay!

g9s8r · #9 (**permalink**) 07-03-08, 03:32 PM

WOW. I couldn't imagine them being that difficult. Than again, I have never tried. I'll be dropping my EXT soon with a McGaughy's kit. I'll definitely look at how difficult it is to change the shocks as I plan on doing the lowering myself. If you do them yourself, try and take pictures and post the install. I am sure that others would appreciate it. (I guess those who can afford a Cadi just pay to have these things done?)

ItsAdam1 · #10 (**permalink**) 07-04-08, 09:21 PM

I replaced a rearshock that was leaking. The R&R is straight forward just support the truck on a jack stand, remove the wheel (my case I was working on the rear drivers side and I removed that wheel) there is a nut and a bolt on the top that is cover by the plastic inner fender. and there is a nut and bolt on the axle. Don't forget about the air line the the sensor plug on the top of the shock. remove and install the new one in the same oreder. I ordered my shock off of ebay for like $150.00 (each). I have only done the drivers rear but I do need to do both fronts. So when I do those I let u know how hard it is.............. but I may just ditch the whole thing and do bags.....

Caddydude420 · #11 (**permalink**) 07-07-08, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ItsAdam1

I replaced a rearshock that was leaking. The R&R is straight forward just support the truck on a jack stand, remove the wheel (my case I was working on the rear drivers side and I removed that wheel) there is a nut and a bolt on the top that is cover by the plastic inner fender. and there is a nut and bolt on the axle. Don't forget about the air line the the sensor plug on the top of the shock. remove and install the new one in the same oreder. I ordered my shock off of ebay for like $150.00 (each). I have only done the drivers rear but I do need to do both fronts. So when I do those I let u know how hard it is.............. but I may just ditch the whole thing and do bags.....

I've been thinking about doing bags myself, but I don't want the headaches. I didn't think this looked too bad. I'll try and take pictures, if not I'll try and get more detailed instructions. Thanks for the heads up though.

stbt · #12 (**permalink**) 10-28-08, 10:25 PM

There are a lot of great threads regarding shocks and this one looks good for my question. I picked up an 06 ESV this summer with 35K miles. At highway speed I get a lot of side to side and front to rear diagonal bobble when going over grade transitions. Good example is when I come off a bridge with a drop back down to the road the front left always dips first and lower than the right and the truck just kind of rolls back and forth (left to right). This is evident for most uneven road variations whether they're perpendicular or angled relative to line of travel. The handling always gets sloppy while it's doing this and at times is a little scary if traffic is fast and tight. To make this more confusing I've tried going over speed bumps and other straight-on obsticals at lower speeds to see if it's evident then but so far this hasn't helped figure this out either.

Unfortunately I don't know anyone with a similar truck to try driving the same road section to compare ride and I'm actually a little confused as to what it should really feel like. I know it's a truck at heart but I've never driven any car or truck that feels as unbalanced as this and I'd gladly sacrifice some ride softness for a more predictable and even suspension response. What is good/best way to determine if it's 1. just me 2. 1 or more shocks Or....? I asked at the Caddi shop and was told it's just me and did I realize how big the tires/wheels are because it's just how it is with big rollers...so now I'm asking the experts...please advise or point me to another more appropriate discussion. If it is 'just' the shocks this thread will become even more vital.

Cirefly · #13 (**permalink**) 10-30-08, 11:26 AM

I got mine from these guys on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=130254832725

Really nice people, quick shipping, amazing price. Item was exactly as described, brand new take-offs. Not a mark on 'em.

the blur · #14 (**permalink**) 10-31-08, 04:22 PM

you can buy my used pair for $50.
new ones are $300 each.

Scott in Milwaukee · #15 (**permalink**) 11-04-08, 12:21 AM

The shocks on the Escalades are really cool in that the rears are air shocks plus all four are electronic. The damping ability of the shocks is altered by sending a mild electrical current through them. So one shock can be altered to be both soft or stify or anything in beteween. The respond within micro-seconds. Found this in an online owner's manual.