Cadillac Escalade, EXT and ESV Forum - 1999 - 2006 Discussion, Codes in Cadillac Escalade Forums; Asked a non Cadillac garage to pull my codes and here is what he found. In no particular order. Engine ...
- 08-13-14 08:05 PM #1
Asked a non Cadillac garage to pull my codes and here is what he found. In no particular order. Engine / EVO auto ride , C0660 , exhaust valve circuit , U 1300 class 2 data link low. If this makes sense to anyone , please explain it to me. Thanks.
- 08-13-14 08:12 PM #2
You can ignore the U code if it's necessary.
The exhaust valve in the compressor head for the rear level control system has failed. Your leveling system can't function without it.
- 08-13-14 09:07 PM #3
Does that mean I need to replace the compressor?
- 08-13-14 09:19 PM #4
It's probably not worth installing a new valve solenoid on the existing compressor, if you could even find one. Arnott sells repackaged OEM units. Check their site.
- 08-14-14 12:20 AM #5Originally Posted by michael tanis
- 08-15-14 12:25 AM #6Cadillac Owners Fanatic
- Automobile(s): 2003 escalade
- Join Date
- Mar 2014
Agree compressor is the culprit. But... before spending big bucks on a compressor whether GM, Arnott, or Dorman make sure everything else is good. Like all the air lines, and your rear shocks. This could all end up costing a lot of money. Weigh your options and decide if you want to keep the air/level ride system with electronic ride control or convert to a passive shock system. There are as many arguments for keeping factory as there are for converting. It's your money and your choice. Search on here what all others have done and choose what suits your needs. I personally tow a 28' camper and kept stock shocks, but disabled the electronic ride control and air compressor but added the Airlift 1000 airbags to my rear coil springs.Works wonderful for me and I have 22" rims. My setup may not work for you if you never load it heavy like I do.
- 08-15-14 04:10 PM #7
Well it sits fine , rides well and I don't tow anything heavy. I think I may leave it alone , for now.
- 08-15-14 09:25 PM #8Originally Posted by michael tanis
- 08-15-14 10:15 PM #9
Well it won't start now. Something that just came up over the last 5 days. Oh well
- 08-15-14 11:45 PM #10Originally Posted by michael tanis
- 08-20-14 08:33 PM #11
It only clicks once, not the normal clicking constantly.
- 08-21-14 12:24 AM #12Originally Posted by michael tanis
If its the relay then replace it(or swap it with one from the lights or horn)
If its the solenoid then the starter will need replacing
- 08-23-14 08:27 AM #13
Latest update. The starting issue is a drain on the battery....The alternator isn;t the problem. The main engine computer is allowing 3.4 V out on the charge control circuit (that plugs into the alternator). Either the computer is bad or you have a bad ground. I'll keep you posted.
- 08-25-14 10:50 PM #14
Well the repair guy says I need a new ECM. Apparently the ECM is telling the alternator to charge the battery when the truck is shut off. This leads to an open circuit and drains the battery. Does this sound correct to anyone ?
- 08-25-14 11:07 PM #15
The PCM does control the alternator on its charge cycles so it sounds pretty much possible