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Cadillac Escalade, EXT and ESV Forum - 1999 - 2006 Discussion, Led map light issue in Cadillac Escalade Forums; Originally Posted by Mark Edward Morrison You got one heck of a deal bro!! They can be a bit stubborn ...
  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Edward Morrison
    You got one heck of a deal bro!! They can be a bit stubborn to remove due to the pins, try a flat blade screw driver and "gently" pry it out and then plug in the new one, that's it!
    Thanks I have the page to get the lcm in case the outside LEDs don't work with my stock flasher(I have the trailer package if that makes a difference)

    I looked on the reviews of the bulbs I got and it shows someone else got them for a gm truck and had no problems so hopefully I can get this dim map light issue licked without having to splice the wiring

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    Anyone think I went overboard with my back up lights I got a set of 80 watt cree LEDs for them

    If they do good I will use them in my blinker

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    Re: Led map light issue

    I tried the autolumination 80 watt and 60 watt Cree switchbacks in my front turn signals. With the Cree switchbacks I had A LOT of trouble with the stock Caddy wiring even though I was using the proper load equalizers. The electronics would freak out. My turn signals would change back to the parking lights and would flicker/strobe by themselves. I talked to the tech guys at autolumination and they suggested that I change from the Cree switchbacks to the Tower switchbacks. Once I swapped them, they worked perfectly.

    They told me different vehicles have different circuitry compatibility issues and sometimes it is trial and error. I also added in the matching Tower II drl bulbs.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retrax
    I tried the autolumination 80 watt and 60 watt Cree switchbacks in my front turn signals. With the Cree switchbacks I had A LOT of trouble with the stock Caddy wiring even though I was using the proper load equalizers. The electronics would freak out. My turn signals would change back to the parking lights and would flicker/strobe by themselves. I talked to the tech guys at autolumination and they suggested that I change from the Cree switchbacks to the Tower switchbacks. Once I swapped them, they worked perfectly. They told me different vehicles have different circuitry compatibility issues and sometimes it is trial and error. I also added in the matching Tower II drl bulbs.
    I am going to use this in place of the stock lighting control unit for the blinkers
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KS...dir_mdp_mobile

    Its in the mobile format thanks to my phones browser but it should work
    But the bulbs I am asking about are for my back up lights but i will try them in my blinkers to see if they act crazy or not(rapid flash) and I will get the lcm in the link if they do as I want bright blinkers and not have to splice the wiring(not fun)

    I have the tower LEDs in my drls nice but could be a tad brighter then they are for the amount of LEDs that is on them(they look cool of the night though)

    If I ere you I would get the lcm in the link and give the cree bulbs another try(if you still have them)

    I am glad my car doesn't have this issue and I will be using cree bulbs in it for the exterior lights(also plan on adding the cornering lights)

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    Ok got the LEDs today but I think I need the canbus ones for the rear reading lights as they are dim (or won't come on)unless a regular bulb is pulling power

    Other then that they are a tight fit but work and are almost as bright as the regular bulbs

    Any ideas on a way to make them work with a problem??

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    Re: Led map light issue

    I haven't had a chance to work on my EXT this past week. It has been below zero for the past 5 or 6 days and I haven't kicked on the furnace in the garage. My rear reading lamps are alongside the single overhead cab lamp in my EXT. They function fine along with my door panel lamps. If I ever get some down time I think I am going to use some spare wire and rig up one of the old incandescent bulbs in series ahead of my front swivel map light LEDs to see if that solves the occasional dimming issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Retrax
    I haven't had a chance to work on my EXT this past week. It has been below zero for the past 5 or 6 days and I haven't kicked on the furnace in the garage. My rear reading lamps are alongside the single overhead cab lamp in my EXT. They function fine along with my door panel lamps. If I ever get some down time I think I am going to use some spare wire and rig up one of the old incandescent bulbs in series ahead of my front swivel map light LEDs to see if that solves the occasional dimming issue.
    If the old style bulb truck works then I will go and do it but I am wondering if the canbus LEDs will work without issue

    If you mind get one and try it so I will know if it will solve the issue as all of my reading and my map lights are dim if I use a led bulb on the switch

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    Re: Led map light issue

    Here is what I found when I was experimenting with different leds on my truck. I used vleds for the following:
    License plate lights, 194_HP_W_6K. These were about the same brightness as the stock bulbs but in the nice cool 6K color. I also tried the 194_4_RB_W_6K but they were really bright.

    For the swivel map lights I used 194_8_W_6K. These have 8 little LEDs and I really like the light output. I removed the silver cone shaped light reflector to get them to fit. I also tried 194_HP_W_6K which were a little brighter but they have one bright LED as opposed to the 8 little LEDs in the bulb above. The one bright led was a little annoying to my eyes. I also tried 194_4_RB_W_6K but those were REALLY bright to the level that they hurt my eyes at night unless I pointed the swivel completely away.

    I have to order the bulbs for my cargo lamps in the bed of the truck and my backup lamps still. I never noticed the dimming issue on the swivel map lights until i had the LEDs in there for a while so maybe the brighter led bulbs won't dim but they are too bright for my taste.

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    Anyone know how to get the darn puddle light lens off without breaking it?

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    Re: Led map light issue

    Make sure you get your truck some place warm if possible. Brittle plastic cracks very easily. There is a small tab you press in with a flat blade screw driver then carefully pivot the lens down and out. Take your time and don't force it, the replacements are ridiculously expensive.

    On another note, now that it finally got above zero degrees here again, I pulled one of my led bulbs out of the swivel map lights and replaced it with the old incandescent bulb. I left the passenger led in the map light and left all 4 led bulbs in the vanity mirrors. With the one bulb swapped out, everything works fine again so it definitely looks like a resistance issue. If I can find the time I will measure the resistance difference between the led and incandescent bulbs. An inline resister added in before the map bulb should solve the problem

    ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by the cadillac man View Post
    Anyone know how to get the darn puddle light lens off without breaking it?
    Here is a walk through on the chevy avalanche site. Ours are the same. Look at the last picture on reply #8 on the thread, it will give you a good visual on how the lens assembly looks out of the mirror and you can see what direction you will need to bend the clear plastic tab with a flat blade screw driver. Be gentle!

    http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/caf...topic=131912.0

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    Quote Originally Posted by Retrax
    Make sure you get your truck some place warm if possible. Brittle plastic cracks very easily. There is a small tab you press in with a flat blade screw driver then carefully pivot the lens down and out. Take your time and don't force it, the replacements are ridiculously expensive. On another note, now that it finally got above zero degrees here again, I pulled one of my led bulbs out of the swivel map lights and replaced it with the old incandescent bulb. I left the passenger led in the map light and left all 4 led bulbs in the vanity mirrors. With the one bulb swapped out, everything works fine again so it definitely looks like a resistance issue. If I can find the time I will measure the resistance difference between the led and incandescent bulbs. An inline resister added in before the map bulb should solve the problem ---------- Here is a walk through on the chevy avalanche site. Ours are the same. Look at the last picture on reply #8 on the thread, it will give you a good visual on how the lens assembly looks out of the mirror and you can see what direction you will need to bend the clear plastic tab with a flat blade screw driver. Be gentle! http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/caf...topic=131912.0
    Cool once you find the correct value I will look and see where the main feed is for the map lights and visor lights(they and the glove box light along with the rear reading lights work off the same feed)

    Its warming up but having time now to tackle the puddle light is rare now as I have been working on my car

    I have to take the truck in for a oil change and tranny fluid and filter change soon so I may try when I get at the shop

    I know they are pricey as I seen where others have broke them(hopefully I don't break mine)
    Going to check out the link

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    UPDATE Re: Led map light issue

    Update: TCM and I have been trying to sort through this issue. I have researched some other forums and see it is a somewhat common problem. I have the EXT pickup style body so my lighting is slightly different from the SUV body style. This is what my truck has for interior lights: glovebox is a 194 bulb, 4 door panels each have one 194 bulb, two swivel style map lights up by rear view mirror have one 194 bulb each, one overhead dome lamp has a 211 style Festoon bulb for the center, one 211 style Festoon bulb on the left and one on the fright side for switched reading lights (three 211 bulbs under one large plastic cover). Each sun visor vanity mirror has two mini festoon (sometimes referred to as "fuse lights") bulbs in each mirror for a total of four bulbs.

    Some bulbs are only on the main circuit. Those bulbs turn on when you open the door or turn the rotary switch all the way up to turn on your interior lights. These main circuit bulbs on my truck are the four door panel bulbs and the main overhead center light (NOT the reading lights along each side - we'll get to those in a minute). These bulbs cause no problems within the system when you switch to led.

    Here is where it gets interesting. The remaining bulbs are dual circuit. The vanity mirror bulbs, the front swivel map bulbs, the glove box bulb, and the overhead left an right reading lamp bulbs on the left and right side of the overhead dome light (but NOT the center overhead dome bulb - remember, we already addressed that bulb above), speak to each other on the CAN Bus system. This is what confuses the truck when we switch out all those bulbs to LED. The LED bulbs draw so much less power than the incandescent bulbs we replaced so the CAN Bus system gets confused and causes bulbs along this dual circuit to dim or turn off especially when competing with each other.

    When you open a door, all the lights on the main circuit and dual circuit get full power and look beautiful (with the exception of the vanity mirror, glove box and overhead reading lamps which communicate on the dual circuit but are activated by their own independent power switches). When you take that power away and the main circuit bulbs turn off (door panel bulbs and center dome bulb in my truck) the remaining LED bulbs get confused on how to act.

    What are the solutions? I already spent a pretty penny on top notch bulbs from VLEDs and they all match in 6000k so I don't really want to get rid of them. I have verified if I remove only one LED bulb from the front swivel map lights and replace it with the old incandescent bulb the system will work perfectly. My vanity visors, map and reading bulbs along with the glove box do NOT dim! The old incandescent bulb does not even have to be turned on to allow all the other bulbs to now get along in harmony. As long as there is one old incandescent bulb present (it can be on or off) everything works the way it should.

    However, now I have all these nice 6k LED bulbs and one ugly yellow one in my map light. Remember that the two reading lights next to the overhead dome light are on this same dual circuit? The only time these bulbs turn on is if someone physically turns the switch on. They do not turn on with the doors or the rotary interior switch. I took out both the left and right fancy LED festoon bulbs I paid about ten bucks apiece for and put the old 211 incandescent bulbs back in. Presto, problem solved. ALL the remaining LED bulbs work perfectly with no dimming issues. I never use those overhead rear seat reading lights anyway so I don't even notice them because they are never turned on (they don't put out much light).

    The truck senses there are bulbs present in the circuit so it behaves. There is probably another way to get this to work but so far this has solved my problem. Hopefully I haven't spoken too soon.

    Some other ideas: I have read that if you buy CAN Bus compliant LEDs and use them on ALL of the dual circuit bulb locations (vanity mirror, swivel map, rear left and right reading lamps, and glove box) this will also supposedly solve the problem. I didn't do this because I didn't want to re purchase all new LED bulbs again. The CAN Bus compliant LED bulbs have a small resistor chip in them but replacing just one or two won't solve the problem, you have to do them all (even though you can get away with the two incandescent bulbs I described because they use more power). I could not find anyone who made CAN Bus compliant vanity mirror lights and the posts I read where guys replaced all but these said they had problems with the other LED bulbs any time they opened a mirror.

    The other theory we have is using a resistor or load equalizer somewhere along the dual circuit to simulate the presence of an incandescent bulb. I don't know what size or value to use and don't want to risk electrical damage or fire if the thing gets too hot. My education on electrical theory and ohm's law is too long ago for me to experiment. I would think a resistor piggy backing an LED in the reading lamp socket could also solve the issue and allow for LED bulbs to also be used there but I wouldn't know where to start. Also it should be possible to wire in an incandescent 211 bulb somewhere in the system which was present but not lit, in order to trick the CAN Bus. If this were hidden somewhere behind the dash or up in the headliner maybe it would allow LED bulbs to go back into the reading lamp slots. The bulb would not ever have to turn on but just be detected. I'm not sure how to proceed on that but I think it would work.

    I know there's a lot to digest here but hopefully it makes sense.

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    Retrax

    The front map lights only are dual curcuit

    The visor lights, glove box and rear reading lights are on the separate circuit(which also power the map lights when switched)

    Also the only bulbs I have on that circuit is the map lights and one visor light being led the rest are regular(haven't had time to finish the rest)
    I still get the dimming with just LEDs bummer

    If you want I can email you the wiring diagrams so we can both be able to look it over ( shoot me a email if you do)

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    Re: Led map light issue

    TCM, I sent you an email response. I thought I had this thing all figured out. It is dark here now so I'm going to do some more tinkering. I swear these trucks are haunted. Some people have zero problems from day one. I haven't been so lucky. If you pull one of your map lights and replace it with a regular old 194 bulb, will the vanity LEDs and your other map light work at full brightness?

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    My vanity LED's are not as bright as my other 6000K LED's in my truck but I don't use the vanity lights very often so it doesn't really bother me. I do wish they were as bright as ALL my other interior LED's though.

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