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Cadillac Escalade, EXT and ESV Forum - 1999 - 2006 Discussion, My 2003 Escalade 6.0 Project... in Cadillac Escalade Forums; My Front diff fluid looked that bad at about 50k. After i drained it out i wished i had done ...
  1. #16
    hotrodln is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: My 2003 Escalade 6.0 Project...

    My Front diff fluid looked that bad at about 50k. After i drained it out i wished i had done it sooner. I didn't know these diffs like to eat themselves like that. but i'm at 93k now and it works fine.

  2. #17
    z0lt3c's Avatar
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    Re: My 2003 Escalade 6.0 Project...

    Based on the service records I have this was the 2nd change at 80k miles with the first change at 44K miles. It does make a low whine at some speeds but I've learned to live with it. It will be changing it at 15K miles intervals until it explodes....

    Been making alot of progress recently but I've run into 2 programs which I can use some assistance;

    1) After replacing the inner/outer tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm, idler arm bracket/pivot and the intermediate steering shaft, somehow my steering wheel wound up offset 90 degrees from center. I had two other mechanics look at it and they are both stumped, everything seems to be assembled correctly, marks were used to maintain relative alignment of old pieces to new pieces ... but 2 different alignment shops couldn't figure out how to recenter the wheel. Anybody run into something similar?? Hoping for a silver bullet here.

    2) Something of a Noreaster blowing through my area right now, and of course I decided to take a 2 hours drive in the pounding rain. Come to discover water leaking from the headliner after about 60 minutes into the drive. It's leaking from two places, both on the driver side; screw holding visor to headliner and from the map light button on the overhead console. My thoughts are the antenna, sunroof or windshield is leaking (in that order of possibility). Anybody seen anything similar.

    Will post some good pics once I get them resized.

  3. #18
    the cadillac man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by z0lt3c
    Based on the service records I have this was the 2nd change at 80k miles with the first change at 44K miles. It does make a low whine at some speeds but I've learned to live with it. It will be changing it at 15K miles intervals until it explodes.... Been making alot of progress recently but I've run into 2 programs which I can use some assistance; 1) After replacing the inner/outer tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm, idler arm bracket/pivot and the intermediate steering shaft, somehow my steering wheel wound up offset 90 degrees from center. I had two other mechanics look at it and they are both stumped, everything seems to be assembled correctly, marks were used to maintain relative alignment of old pieces to new pieces ... but 2 different alignment shops couldn't figure out how to recenter the wheel. Anybody run into something similar?? Hoping for a silver bullet here. 2) Something of a Noreaster blowing through my area right now, and of course I decided to take a 2 hours drive in the pounding rain. Come to discover water leaking from the headliner after about 60 minutes into the drive. It's leaking from two places, both on the driver side; screw holding visor to headliner and from the map light button on the overhead console. My thoughts are the antenna, sunroof or windshield is leaking (in that order of possibility). Anybody seen anything similar. Will post some good pics once I get them resized.
    Not sure on the wheel alignment but check the tracks of the sunroof for debris

    If you have the xm radio then that is a possible leak but it would be on the passenger side I doubt the on star antenna is the cause given it's coming from the middle of the truck

    Trust me if the windshield had a leak you would hear a air leak while driving

    FYI use photobucket for the pics much better trust me been there before

  4. #19
    wesyder's Avatar
    wesyder is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Unsure on the leak, could be coming from any of those, however the alignment is not rocket science.. Center the steering wheel and perform the alignment, standard procedure

  5. #20
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    Steering wheel cannot be fixed w tie rod adjustments its off too much. Based on searching, others have had this problem w a defective pitman. I think I will try another pitman from a different manufacturer.

  6. #21
    wesyder's Avatar
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    Ok keep us posted and if it still has an issue a decent alignment shop should be able to tell you what the problem is

  7. #22
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    Re: My 2003 Escalade 6.0 Project...

    Strutmasters front shocks and engery suspension front sway bar links & bushing w/ new tie rods ends;





    Arnott/Bilsten rear shocks;





    This is what my original suspension compressor looked like (still waiting to replace this);




    And finally here is a preview of my new wheels;


  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by z0lt3c
    Strutmasters front shocks and engery suspension front sway bar links & bushing w/ new tie rods ends; Arnott/Bilsten rear shocks; This is what my original suspension compressor looked like (still waiting to replace this); And finally here is a preview of my new wheels;
    Looks good how's the ride qulity

    Your compressor looks worser then what mine did FYI avoid arrnotts compressor unless you want to splice wires

    Nice rims

  9. #24
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    Re: My 2003 Escalade 6.0 Project...

    Quote Originally Posted by the cadillac man View Post
    Looks good how's the ride qulity
    As I expected, it's a big improvement (night & day) as compared to the 4 blown shocks I removed. At first I had just replaced the rears and tried to keep the original fronts but the ride quality was still poor so I went ahead and took the plunge and had the front installed as well. So far, no major complaints, kit went on both axles easy enough and I have no error codes from the suspension system in the ECU. I did have to cut the connector off the harness to install the front resistors, but I think I will be able to solder the connectors back on later if I ever decide to go back to electric front shocks. I think the strutmaster/arnott mashup make a good solution, the arnott rear product is a little stiffer, which is nice when hauling or handling bumps while the strutmaster front product is a little softer, a little floaty, but solid at low and high speed. There does seem to be a little excessive body roll, not sure if because of the active to passive conversion or not, but I can live with it. Considering what I paid compared to OEM solution I am happy.

  10. #25
    the cadillac man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by z0lt3c
    As I expected, it's a big improvement (night & day) as compared to the 4 blown shocks I removed. At first I had just replaced the rears and tried to keep the original fronts but the ride quality was still poor so I went ahead and took the plunge and had the front installed as well. So far, no major complaints, kit went on both axles easy enough and I have no error codes from the suspension system in the ECU. I did have to cut the connector off the harness to install the front resistors, but I think I will be able to solder the connectors back on later if I ever decide to go back to electric front shocks. I think the strutmaster/arnott mashup make a good solution, the arnott rear product is a little stiffer, which is nice when hauling or handling bumps while the strutmaster front product is a little softer, a little floaty, but solid at low and high speed. There does seem to be a little excessive body roll, not sure if because of the active to passive conversion or not, but I can live with it. Considering what I paid compared to OEM solution I am happy.
    Mine was floaty when my shocks went I to passive mode(scary at high speeds)
    Now its stable at high speeds(trust me I have tried it)
    Still running the stock fronts but they are starting to show age but not going to mess with it while it works
    Plus side I got no body roll compared to how it used to be

    Also when you replace your compressor be ready for it to kick on with stuff in the back

    I stuck with factory as I haul large stuff (eg crt projectors) at times

  11. #26
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    Re: My 2003 Escalade 6.0 Project...

    Finally solved the off center steering wheel issue today. It was, in fact, a defective manufactured pitman arm. This pitman arm was made by the Chinese company "OEM Brand" and is frequently sold on ebay and many auto parts stores as the lower priced option (usually with a 6 month warranty) . I replaced the cheap pitman arm w/ a Moog pitman arm (Made in the USA w/ a lifetime warranty).

    Sure enough, when we removed the cheap pitman arm, we found that it was off by 1 spline, when compared to the original arm, and the Moog part. With the Moog part installed the steering wheel instantly came back to center and a proper alignment was now possible. Let this be a lesson... some parts you need to go for the more expensive option. My "OEM Brand" idler arm and tie rods ends were all fine and of good quality so feel free to save some $$$ on these parts. I only had to R&R the pitman three times to figure this out!!

  12. #27
    the cadillac man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by z0lt3c
    Finally solved the off center steering wheel issue today. As the interweb suggested, it was, in fact, a defective manufactured pitman arm. This pitman arm was made by the Chinese company "OEM Brand" and is frequently sold on ebay and many auto parts stores as the lower priced option (usually with a 6 month warranty) . I replaced the cheap pitman arm w/ a Moog pitman arm (Made in the USA w/ a lifetime warranty). Sure enough when we removed the cheap pitman arm, we found that it was off by 1 spline, when compared to the original arm, and the Moog part. With the Moog part installed the steering wheel instantly came back to center and a proper alignment was now possible. Let this be a lesson... some parts you need to go for the more expensive option. My "OEM Brand" idler arm and tie rods ends were all fine and of good quality so feel free to save some $$$ on these parts. I only had to R&R the pitman three times to figure this out!!
    Wow glad to hear you got it fixed though

  13. #28
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    Re: My 2003 Escalade 6.0 Project...

    I got the new Dorman 949-000 compressor unit installed today. Took about 90 minutes because I had to figure some things out for the first time, I can see it taking less if I had to do it again.

    When I removed the air line from the old compressor it was under pressure... so maybe my old pump was working despite it's nasty physical condition. I decided to replace it anyway

    No error codes but I still can't hear it run. Maybe I need to get somebody else to start it while I listen closer.


    Next job is to drop the headliner and fix the sunroof and rear aspirator.

  14. #29
    the cadillac man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by z0lt3c
    I got the new Dorman 949-000 compressor unit installed today. Took about 90 minutes because I had to figure some things out for the first time, I can see it taking less if I had to do it again. When I removed the air line from the old compressor it was under pressure... so maybe my old pump was working despite it's nasty physical condition. I decided to replace it anyway No error codes but I still can't hear it run. Maybe I need to get somebody else to start it while I listen closer. Next job is to drop the headliner and fix the sunroof and rear aspirator.
    The rear shocks work as a sealed system and them still being under pressure is a good sign that your shocks ain't leaking

    Easy way to tell if it kicks on is turn the key to run but don't start the engine(be sure to turn off the hvac blowers and have the window down)

  15. #30
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    Re: My 2003 Escalade 6.0 Project...

    I had another odd problem today. I used the parking brake for the first time, and when i engaged the p-brake the passenger side rear window rolled down. At this point the driver side window controls did not work, but I could roll it up from the passenger door controls, but as soon as I turned the car off the window rolled back down!!! I disengaged the p-brake and the window went back to working normally... any ideas?

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