Check the drl relay and fuseOriginally Posted by tla11384
If that don't fix it I will look and see where the grounds are for the head lights
You do realize the DRL's will only work when it is light out and your vehicle is running and the transmission is out of park. This is a common mistake. Drive your truck where you can pull up to a glass window or door and look at the reflection to see if they are on, or have a friend start your truck and put the transmission into drive, they should turn on.
What kind of LEDs are you using for DRL's? There are a lot of them that can not handle the forward voltage the cadillac electrical system puts out. It can spike to 14 volts DC which can fry 12 volt LEDs unless they have overload protection like the autolumination ones do, or you use an led protector inline. Yes, you do need to use load equalizers with your led turn signals. If you are only using 2 LEDs for the front or two LEDs in the back you only need two 6 ohm equalizers (one for left and one for right). If you are running led turn signals front and rear you need four 3 ohm equalizers (front left, front right, rear left and rear right).
I have check and double checked the fuse and also used different ways to see if the drl were operating correctly and im certain that they are out. I only thing now is to check the ground or replace both sockets. It's just weird to me that they would both go out at the same time. I've tested the bulbs and they are not burnt out.
ps thanks for answer the resistor question!
I think they operate on the same circuit, which would explain why they both went out at the same time. If you don't have a blown fuse, the relay could be bad. If you have a helper you and put your finger on top of the relay when the helper starts the car during day light and places it in gear. You will feel the relay click on. If not, I would swap it for the high beam relay to see if it works. If the relay is good, use a multi meter to see if you are getting power at the sockets. Do the sockets look burnt at all? The contacts may be scorched and not making good contact. That is about all I can think of at the top of my head.
Also try covering the twilight sensor with a thick paper or a can to make the truck think its dark and then hit the unlock buttonOriginally Posted by tla11384
Provided the perimeter lighting feature is on the drls and back up lights will kick on when the button is hit (this is configurable in the drivers settings using the steering wheel controls
More then likely its a ground issue or bad socketsOriginally Posted by tla11384
Look at my service manual and see where the ground points are for the headlights
Looks light I have a bad ground or connection. After tinkering with the lights they came on. Any ideas of what I can do to make a better connection on the lights.
Thanks again for all the suggestion and help.
Replace the sockets for one as those can melt due to the regular bulbs generating some much heat while in useOriginally Posted by tla11384
TRUST ME, get a Tridon LM487 heavy duty light module and your LED blinkers will work perfectly! I installed LED's for my blinkers and the Tridon light module and have never had a problem. Plus who wants to use resisters and crap to splice into lines. I think I bought my Tridon from RockAuto.com if I am not mistaken and have had my LED's in over a year and no hyper flash or any other problems.
Will that work with incandescent trailer lights? I checked with all the LED bulb makers who sell electronic flashers and they said a heavy duty turn signal/hazard electronic flasher unit did not exist for our trucks or chevy trucks. Wish I knew this before I wired in the load equalizers!
Not sure who you asked but I have one the Tridon LM487 and it works perfect on my LED blinkers. Google it and read about them, I highly recommend them.
I tow with my truck. My trailer does not have led lighting. Most trucks use a heavy duty standard flashing unit in order to allow the towing package to operate the added burden of trailer lights. This is why some cars have to have a "booster" wired in so that the trailer lights would work properly. I was told the stock gm heavy duty flasher was required for towing and that there was not a digital equivalent.