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Diy - freshen up leather seats for $20 - no more ugly seat bottoms

140K views 177 replies 99 participants last post by  regranite 
#1 ·
OK, as a profession I do mobile auto reconditioning. I mostly fix scratches, dings, dents and exterior work for used car dealers and private owners who have lease returns or want their cars looking good. However, I do some interior reconditioning as well, so I thought I'd share a few pointers.

As everyone knows the Escalade seat bottoms wear like no tomorrow! Instead of spending $200+ (EACH!) on a new seat bottom, I'd rather freshen it up a bit, much like I do on lease returns and used cars. You will need a $9 bottle of SEM SOAP and an $11 bottle of SEM 149B SHALE (#17203) Classic Coat leather paint. You can find these at most auto body supply shops. SEM has a list of their distributors on their website.

Lets get started! Here's what you need:









^^^ Notice the slight discoloration? ^^^


You will need to thoroughly clean the leather to be painted to get rid of any conditioner or grease left behind. Dab a little on a heavy duty Blue paper towel and use a spray bottle to spray the leather with water. Mask the area you don't want over-spray.





You will want to apply 3-4 light coats. You may want to go slightly heavier to fill in the "cracks", NOT THE CREASES! If you look closely at the seats, you will notice the black "dirty" spots are actually really small cracks. Those will be filled in.







And the other side.... (sorry no before pics, it was just as dirty/worn as the driver side)





Pics don't do any justice. The difference in person is night and day! Although the problem with the creases will not be solved, it will definitely make you happier to live with. The paint is amazing, the blending properties within the SEM paint are unbelievable. You will notice the paint is really not a paint, but more like a dye. It just disappears into the leather and blends perfectly. You will not have to paint the entire seat. Just don't lay the paint on thick, and you will be pleased!
 
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#3 ·
Amazing! Thanks!
 
#10 ·
When you clean leather seats, you will always notice the color will come off the seat a little bit, whether the seat was ever painted or not. But like I said, this is more of a dye than a paint, you will see it is very watery when it come out. I did this over a week ago and its holding up great!
 
#15 ·
SEM recommends that you leave it for 24 hours to cure.... The paint is dry to the touch in about 10-20 minutes. Like I stated, its more of a dye than a paint, the color is sucked into the leather. I have not had a problem with that.... I wear white shorts to the gym and haven't found any beige on them in the last couple of weeks! I also do this for used car dealers and never had anyone complain!

And thanks for adding another story to my thread ESCALADOR! Glad it worked for you! Been a few weeks for me, nothing has peeled or worn out yet! And yes its a very quick and easy project, 45 mins at the most for both seats!
 
#16 ·
Guys would it be better to pull the seat cushions? Is that too much of a pain? I would rather have then on a work bench to clean and paint. Just a thought....
I have not pulled me seats yet for any reason mainly because the airbag scares the crap out of me... I can see myself on you tube making a mistake!
 
#17 ·
Theres no need to take the leather off the seats or even take the seats out. Just mask it off, i promise you the paint will blend 100% into the leather that doesnt get painted, so u don't have to do the whole seat. the can have a very nice fan on it, with very little overspray.
 
#24 ·
Good info on this site:
Directions For Use
Return to SEM Classic Coat for Leather
Directions for use
Preparation:
Vinyl:
# Clean first with SEM SOAP and a gray scuff pad, paying close attention to textured or recessed areas.
# Rinse with water. If contamination still exists, water will bead on the surface. Repeat this step until beading no longer occurs.
# Next, clean thoroughly with VINYL PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping in one direction.
# Rinse with water and dry.

Leather:
# Clean first with SEM SOAP and a gray scuff pad, paying close attention to textured or recessed areas.
# Wipe with a clean damp towel to remove all residue and allow to dry.
# Next, clean with SEM PLASTIC/LEATHER PREP.
# Scuff the leather with a clean, gray scuff pad and clean again with SEM PLASTIC/LEATHER PREP.

MIXING: Agitate thoroughly! Shake can vigorously for one minute after mixing ball rattles to ensure color uniformity and to prevent clogging. For best results, use only when can temperature is approximately 70°F (21°C).

APPLICATION: Apply light “mist” coats, allowing 5-10 minutes between coats.

It should be noted that even though film is dry to touch, the substrate should not be subjected to heavy abuse or abrasion for 24 hours.

NOTE: Spray tip may be adjusted for either a vertical or horizontal fan spray pattern.
 
#25 ·
Yes, those are the exact directions on the can.... i didnt feel like typing them.... the grey scuff pad however can sometimes damage soft leather, like the escalade has.... i wouldn't reccommend using the scuff pad, i used a foam pad instead to lightly scuff before paint... and i used simple green degreaser instead of the leather prep.... I have been using this method for years ^ and never had a problem.
 
#27 ·
Here you go I pulled the seats to make it easier - I also wanted to clean under them and the sides of the center console. I think Elvira the mistress of the dark and her bank of hounds used to own this Lade. over all I am pleased with this outcome. Take your time plan on three coats

Before


after
 
#30 ·
its worth it imo. it took 20 minutes to get the seats out get a deep well 15mm socket for the front nuts. take your time and use light coats. Like luxury said the creases are still there but the seats look a lot better. SEM soap cleaned them up nice even areas that I did not paint (in those areas I used very light pressure).
 
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