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Cadillac Forums: Transmission Fluid Change
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Old 11-09-08, 04:06 PM
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Transmission Fluid Change

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Alright, changing the transmission fluid in an Escalade...

Again, these photos are from a 2004 Escalade, AWD, 6.0 Liter V8, Vin N Engine. If you're not sure on the engine, the 8th letter of your Vin is the Engine code.

Right up front, I'm gonna tell you, this may not be "according to Hoyle", okay.... This method is sort of "borrowed" from what I picked up from some guys who used this method on Eldorados and Sevilles.... I did this to my Eldorado Touring Coupe, and it worked great. I just did the Escalade a month ago, and it worked out great, I have no issues whatsoever.

This is not flushing. This is merely pumping out the old, and filling it with new. No dropping of the pan is required. I'm very suspicious that this is what they do at dealers, maybe, because the dealers near me don't stock filters, you have to order it. So, I get the impression they don't drop the pan either.

Whatever. Ideally, in a perfect world, you would drop the pan, change the filters and gasket, replaced the pan, refill with fluid, and THEN do the procedure you are about to read.

I admit, all I did was what you are about to read. The truck only had upper 40's on it, so....

Okay, first, you are going to need an assistant to do this. The assistant will sit in the truck, and will start the engine when told to do so, and will shut off the engine when told to do so. I am very fortunate to have my GF, "The Doc", as my assistant.... You'd think a University Professor and Research Scientist at a Hospital would be smart enough not to associate with people like me.... what can I say.

Alright, with the hood up, standing on the passneger side of the engine bay, looking in at the backside of the radiator area, you should see something like this:

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


See that little silver line, with the rag under it?? That's a return line from the transmission cooler. In that photo, I have pulled back a black plastic thing over the fitting. The fitting is now exposed.

That line is held in place by a tiny circlip, or "C" clip. Use a little pick, or a real small screwdriver, and pull that out of it's little channel. Be careful, it likes to go flying when it comes loose...

Once that is off, you should be able to simply pull the line out. Pulling to the left, as seen here... This apparently is just a tapered fitting...

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


You can see there, I have pulled off the line. Some will probably drip. That's what the rag is for.

Now, you are going to have to purchase (or find in your garage) some line... I used a 3/4 inch inside diameter by 1" outside diameter piece of plastic line, like so.

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


That is the line, forced over the entire fitting area.

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


In case this picture is a little better, another look.

Now, you need an assistant because you are going to have to stand there and hold the line in place.

The other end of the line should be routed into a large drain pain. I used a big yellow radiator style pan, and it was barely big enough. Also, it would really help if fluid didn't "back up" in the line, so route the line DOWN through the engine compartment, into your pan. I used like about a 5 or 6 foot piece of that line.

What's going to happen is this:

Step 1: Assistant will start the truck. Transmission Fluid will start flowing STRONGLY out of that fitting, into your hose, and down into the pan. It comes out HARD. Keep holding that hose! There is no need to rev the engine. Just start it and let it idle.

Step 2: It will only take a few seconds, and the flow will start to sputter. 7 or 8 seconds maybe??? Not real long.

Step 3: IMMEDIATELY when you see sputtering, signal your assistant to shut off the truck. Roughly 2 or 3 quarts will have come out.

Step 4: Add 2 or 3 quarts of Dexron VI (thats dexron six) through the dipstick tube, thus replacing what you just pumped out.

Step 5: Go back to step One.

You will do that a few times. I ended up pumping out about 15-16 quarts, roughly....

You are looking for bright clean red Dexron to come out into your line. If you use a clear line, like I did, it will be quite apparent when you are no longer pumping out scuzzy brown fluid, and are now pumping bright ruby red fluid....

When bright red fluid comes out, you could stop.... or you could do ONE more cycle, for laughs, just to be sure....

When you've had enough, get your clear plastic line out of there.

Replace the circlip in the fitting, and then press the silver line back into the hole. The line will "click" back into place when the fitting on the line passes through the circlip.

It doesn't seem like the greatest setup, but I must say, I have no seeping, no leaking, nothing. Total bone dryness.

Then do the last refill, put like 2 quarts in through the dipstick tube. To sum up, basically you are using the engine to pump out, and you are replacing with fresh. Just keep repeating that until fresh stuff makes it all the way back to you, and your tube.

Tranny fluid on this truck should be checked with the truck on level ground, engine warm, engine on and idling.

Because the dipstick tube is so long, and at such a "flat" angle, I tended to get a "false full" reading. It was close, however. But if you wait a day, drive it somewhere, and check it, that's a better reading.

Over the course of 3 or 4 days, I added maybe another quart, in 1/2 quart increments. You don't want to over fill this!!

Also, let me note:

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


I used this stuff. There's a service bulletin out there somewhere that says going forward, all tranny fluid should be Dexron VI. It's apparently backwards compatible with anything that ever used Dexron III. Now, the GM Dex 6 has an amazing price, at least around here. This stuff I found at Advance Auto Parts for about $4 a quart. I have also seen at Wal-Mart, there is a "Super-Tech" brand Dexron 6 that is even more reasonable.

That's what I did, and it worked for me. Admittedly, this is a little "quick and dirty", but it's probably WAY better than the "nothing" that most people do....

Good luck.
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Old 11-10-08, 04:39 PM
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Re: Transmission Fluid Change

Making a sticky. thanks Patrick.
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Old 11-10-08, 05:17 PM
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Re: Transmission Fluid Change

Nice post Patrick. Does anyone have any comments about how to utilize this method AND drop the pan/change the filter? After dropping the pan and replacing the filter, I'm guessing that most of the fluid will not come out so I suppose I could do the pan first, refill whatever fluid drains out, then use this method until the fluid coming through the system is clean.

Or I could do this first to replace the fluid, drop the pan while collecting all the new fluid that comes out, button things back up and then pour the new fluid back in again. Does anyone think that one method is better than the other? It seems like it would take the same amount of time either way since you're doing the same amount of work, just in a different order.

Maybe dropping the pan first would allow me to clean junk off the magnets, etc. first so it would not get stuck in the new fluid so maybe that's the way to go.

I dunno...what do you guys think?
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Old 11-10-08, 05:21 PM
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Re: Transmission Fluid Change

Nevermind. I just reread Patrick's post where he recommends changing filter/dropping pan first and then flushing out the rest of the fluid. Makes sense I guess...
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Old 03-15-09, 11:57 AM
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Re: Transmission Fluid Change

This is a great idea and thank you for the pics. I tried a similar tactic with my jeep...by accident. I forgot to tighten the hose clamp for the tranny cooler and it came off and shot fluid everywhere. :-(
But then I got the same idea listed here on how to drain the tranny using a similar method.

I think changing the fluid first, then dropping pan makes more sense. This way the filter you put in is 100% clean. You can still chemically clean the pan and magnets before putting back on.

Anyone here use lucas when doing a tranny oil change???
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Old 09-22-09, 10:54 PM
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Re: Transmission Fluid Change

Great post! I decided to drop the pan on mine, after reading there's a magnet in there, I just had to take a peek on how bad (or good) a condition the tranny is. And also replace the filter. Proper filter for the pan you see pictured is the shallow model. I found on another site that the deep pan measures closer than 6" in depth. Mine is under 4".

The job started rather bad... I was praising the GM engineers (that doesn't happen often) for adding a drainplug to the pan! Great idea. Unfortunately, some moron tightened it so hard that I wasn't able to remove it! I didn't try with an air impact, not wanting to break anything. The clip for the shift lever just slides off, then squeeze both sides of the cable to release it from the bracket. The end just pops off the lever easily. Removing all 16 13mm screws was easy, all were properly and evenly tightened. I let the fluid drip by loosening the bolts a little and waiting. Then I realized the pan cannot come off unless the cable holder, which is sitting very close to the tranny, comes off. It's held in place by 2 T40 screws that are very hard to access on top of the tranny. I managed to get a ratchet on em, but those were stuck there for good! Plan B; bend the upper tab on the bracket and pry it with a long prybar while negotiating the pan downwards (while trying not to get soaked by the oil still in there!) End result shown here:



The magnet was covered in metallic goo, but no big chuncks of metal. Good! Since I picked the wrong filter, I had to let the thing drip down all weekend in the garage. Pic of the pan before and after cleanup.



Since the pan was off, I tried to remove the drain plug and coat it with anti-seize for the next oil change. Niet! It's stuck there for good!



I also cut a small notch in the pan to help reinstall it. I find it hard to believe nobody at GM has ever bothered to remove that pan while the tranny is still attached to the engine to realize what a poor design that cable bracket is!



Added 4 litres of regular Dexron III ATF, went for a test drive, had to add another 2 liters to bring the level up to the correct spot. Pan bolts torque is 12 N-M. No leaks, tranny doesnt shift any differently, but I did notice a slightly lower operating temperature.
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