Alright, changing the transmission fluid in an Escalade...
Again, these photos are from a 2004 Escalade, AWD, 6.0 Liter V8, Vin N Engine. If you're not sure on the engine, the 8th letter of your Vin is the Engine code.
Right up front, I'm gonna tell you, this may not be "according to Hoyle", okay.... This method is sort of "borrowed" from what I picked up from some guys who used this method on Eldorados and Sevilles.... I did this to my Eldorado Touring Coupe, and it worked great. I just did the Escalade a month ago, and it worked out great, I have no issues whatsoever.
This is not flushing. This is merely pumping out the old, and filling it with new. No dropping of the pan is required. I'm very suspicious that this is what they do at dealers, maybe, because the dealers near me don't stock filters, you have to order it. So, I get the impression they don't drop the pan either.
Whatever. Ideally, in a perfect world, you would drop the pan, change the filters and gasket, replaced the pan, refill with fluid, and THEN do the procedure you are about to read.
I admit, all I did was what you are about to read. The truck only had upper 40's on it, so....
Okay, first, you are going to need an assistant to do this. The assistant will sit in the truck, and will start the engine when told to do so, and will shut off the engine when told to do so. I am very fortunate to have my GF, "The Doc", as my assistant.... You'd think a University Professor and Research Scientist at a Hospital would be smart enough not to associate with people like me.... what can I say.
Alright, with the hood up, standing on the passneger side of the engine bay, looking in at the backside of the radiator area, you should see something like this:
Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image
See that little silver line, with the rag under it?? That's a return line from the transmission cooler. In that photo, I have pulled back a black plastic thing over the fitting. The fitting is now exposed.
That line is held in place by a tiny circlip, or "C" clip. Use a little pick, or a real small screwdriver, and pull that out of it's little channel. Be careful, it likes to go flying when it comes loose...
Once that is off, you should be able to simply pull the line out. Pulling to the left, as seen here... This apparently is just a tapered fitting...
Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image
You can see there, I have pulled off the line. Some will probably drip. That's what the rag is for.
Now, you are going to have to purchase (or find in your garage) some line... I used a 3/4 inch inside diameter by 1" outside diameter piece of plastic line, like so.
Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image
That is the line, forced over the entire fitting area.
Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image
In case this picture is a little better, another look.
Now, you need an assistant because you are going to have to stand there and hold the line in place.
The other end of the line should be routed into a large drain pain. I used a big yellow radiator style pan, and it was barely big enough. Also, it would really help if fluid didn't "back up" in the line, so route the line DOWN through the engine compartment, into your pan. I used like about a 5 or 6 foot piece of that line.
What's going to happen is this:
Step 1: Assistant will start the truck. Transmission Fluid will start flowing STRONGLY out of that fitting, into your hose, and down into the pan. It comes out HARD. Keep holding that hose! There is no need to rev the engine. Just start it and let it idle.
Step 2: It will only take a few seconds, and the flow will start to sputter. 7 or 8 seconds maybe??? Not real long.
Step 3: IMMEDIATELY when you see sputtering, signal your assistant to shut off the truck. Roughly 2 or 3 quarts will have come out.
Step 4: Add 2 or 3 quarts of Dexron VI (thats dexron six) through the dipstick tube, thus replacing what you just pumped out.
Step 5: Go back to step One.
You will do that a few times. I ended up pumping out about 15-16 quarts, roughly....
You are looking for bright clean red Dexron to come out into your line. If you use a clear line, like I did, it will be quite apparent when you are no longer pumping out scuzzy brown fluid, and are now pumping bright ruby red fluid....
When bright red fluid comes out, you could stop.... or you could do ONE more cycle, for laughs, just to be sure....
When you've had enough, get your clear plastic line out of there.
Replace the circlip in the fitting, and then press the silver line back into the hole. The line will "click" back into place when the fitting on the line passes through the circlip.
It doesn't seem like the greatest setup, but I must say, I have no seeping, no leaking, nothing. Total bone dryness.
Then do the last refill, put like 2 quarts in through the dipstick tube. To sum up, basically you are using the engine to pump out, and you are replacing with fresh. Just keep repeating that until fresh stuff makes it all the way back to you, and your tube.
Tranny fluid on this truck should be checked with the truck on level ground, engine warm, engine on and idling.
Because the dipstick tube is so long, and at such a "flat" angle, I tended to get a "false full" reading. It was close, however. But if you wait a day, drive it somewhere, and check it, that's a better reading.
Over the course of 3 or 4 days, I added maybe another quart, in 1/2 quart increments. You don't want to over fill this!!
Also, let me note:
Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image
I used this stuff. There's a service bulletin out there somewhere that says going forward, all tranny fluid should be Dexron VI. It's apparently backwards compatible with anything that ever used Dexron III. Now, the GM Dex 6 has an amazing price, at least around here. This stuff I found at Advance Auto Parts for about $4 a quart. I have also seen at Wal-Mart, there is a "Super-Tech" brand Dexron 6 that is even more reasonable.
That's what I did, and it worked for me. Admittedly, this is a little "quick and dirty", but it's probably WAY better than the "nothing" that most people do....
Good luck.
Again, these photos are from a 2004 Escalade, AWD, 6.0 Liter V8, Vin N Engine. If you're not sure on the engine, the 8th letter of your Vin is the Engine code.
Right up front, I'm gonna tell you, this may not be "according to Hoyle", okay.... This method is sort of "borrowed" from what I picked up from some guys who used this method on Eldorados and Sevilles.... I did this to my Eldorado Touring Coupe, and it worked great. I just did the Escalade a month ago, and it worked out great, I have no issues whatsoever.
This is not flushing. This is merely pumping out the old, and filling it with new. No dropping of the pan is required. I'm very suspicious that this is what they do at dealers, maybe, because the dealers near me don't stock filters, you have to order it. So, I get the impression they don't drop the pan either.
Whatever. Ideally, in a perfect world, you would drop the pan, change the filters and gasket, replaced the pan, refill with fluid, and THEN do the procedure you are about to read.
I admit, all I did was what you are about to read. The truck only had upper 40's on it, so....
Okay, first, you are going to need an assistant to do this. The assistant will sit in the truck, and will start the engine when told to do so, and will shut off the engine when told to do so. I am very fortunate to have my GF, "The Doc", as my assistant.... You'd think a University Professor and Research Scientist at a Hospital would be smart enough not to associate with people like me.... what can I say.
Alright, with the hood up, standing on the passneger side of the engine bay, looking in at the backside of the radiator area, you should see something like this:
See that little silver line, with the rag under it?? That's a return line from the transmission cooler. In that photo, I have pulled back a black plastic thing over the fitting. The fitting is now exposed.
That line is held in place by a tiny circlip, or "C" clip. Use a little pick, or a real small screwdriver, and pull that out of it's little channel. Be careful, it likes to go flying when it comes loose...
Once that is off, you should be able to simply pull the line out. Pulling to the left, as seen here... This apparently is just a tapered fitting...
You can see there, I have pulled off the line. Some will probably drip. That's what the rag is for.
Now, you are going to have to purchase (or find in your garage) some line... I used a 3/4 inch inside diameter by 1" outside diameter piece of plastic line, like so.
That is the line, forced over the entire fitting area.
In case this picture is a little better, another look.
Now, you need an assistant because you are going to have to stand there and hold the line in place.
The other end of the line should be routed into a large drain pain. I used a big yellow radiator style pan, and it was barely big enough. Also, it would really help if fluid didn't "back up" in the line, so route the line DOWN through the engine compartment, into your pan. I used like about a 5 or 6 foot piece of that line.
What's going to happen is this:
Step 1: Assistant will start the truck. Transmission Fluid will start flowing STRONGLY out of that fitting, into your hose, and down into the pan. It comes out HARD. Keep holding that hose! There is no need to rev the engine. Just start it and let it idle.
Step 2: It will only take a few seconds, and the flow will start to sputter. 7 or 8 seconds maybe??? Not real long.
Step 3: IMMEDIATELY when you see sputtering, signal your assistant to shut off the truck. Roughly 2 or 3 quarts will have come out.
Step 4: Add 2 or 3 quarts of Dexron VI (thats dexron six) through the dipstick tube, thus replacing what you just pumped out.
Step 5: Go back to step One.
You will do that a few times. I ended up pumping out about 15-16 quarts, roughly....
You are looking for bright clean red Dexron to come out into your line. If you use a clear line, like I did, it will be quite apparent when you are no longer pumping out scuzzy brown fluid, and are now pumping bright ruby red fluid....
When bright red fluid comes out, you could stop.... or you could do ONE more cycle, for laughs, just to be sure....
When you've had enough, get your clear plastic line out of there.
Replace the circlip in the fitting, and then press the silver line back into the hole. The line will "click" back into place when the fitting on the line passes through the circlip.
It doesn't seem like the greatest setup, but I must say, I have no seeping, no leaking, nothing. Total bone dryness.
Then do the last refill, put like 2 quarts in through the dipstick tube. To sum up, basically you are using the engine to pump out, and you are replacing with fresh. Just keep repeating that until fresh stuff makes it all the way back to you, and your tube.
Tranny fluid on this truck should be checked with the truck on level ground, engine warm, engine on and idling.
Because the dipstick tube is so long, and at such a "flat" angle, I tended to get a "false full" reading. It was close, however. But if you wait a day, drive it somewhere, and check it, that's a better reading.
Over the course of 3 or 4 days, I added maybe another quart, in 1/2 quart increments. You don't want to over fill this!!
Also, let me note:
I used this stuff. There's a service bulletin out there somewhere that says going forward, all tranny fluid should be Dexron VI. It's apparently backwards compatible with anything that ever used Dexron III. Now, the GM Dex 6 has an amazing price, at least around here. This stuff I found at Advance Auto Parts for about $4 a quart. I have also seen at Wal-Mart, there is a "Super-Tech" brand Dexron 6 that is even more reasonable.
That's what I did, and it worked for me. Admittedly, this is a little "quick and dirty", but it's probably WAY better than the "nothing" that most people do....
Good luck.