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118K views 46 replies 24 participants last post by  Tree11 
#1 ·
Alright, changing the transmission fluid in an Escalade...

Again, these photos are from a 2004 Escalade, AWD, 6.0 Liter V8, Vin N Engine. If you're not sure on the engine, the 8th letter of your Vin is the Engine code.

Right up front, I'm gonna tell you, this may not be "according to Hoyle", okay.... This method is sort of "borrowed" from what I picked up from some guys who used this method on Eldorados and Sevilles.... I did this to my Eldorado Touring Coupe, and it worked great. I just did the Escalade a month ago, and it worked out great, I have no issues whatsoever.

This is not flushing. This is merely pumping out the old, and filling it with new. No dropping of the pan is required. I'm very suspicious that this is what they do at dealers, maybe, because the dealers near me don't stock filters, you have to order it. So, I get the impression they don't drop the pan either.

Whatever. Ideally, in a perfect world, you would drop the pan, change the filters and gasket, replaced the pan, refill with fluid, and THEN do the procedure you are about to read.

I admit, all I did was what you are about to read. The truck only had upper 40's on it, so....

Okay, first, you are going to need an assistant to do this. The assistant will sit in the truck, and will start the engine when told to do so, and will shut off the engine when told to do so. I am very fortunate to have my GF, "The Doc", as my assistant.... You'd think a University Professor and Research Scientist at a Hospital would be smart enough not to associate with people like me.... what can I say.

Alright, with the hood up, standing on the passneger side of the engine bay, looking in at the backside of the radiator area, you should see something like this:

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


See that little silver line, with the rag under it?? That's a return line from the transmission cooler. In that photo, I have pulled back a black plastic thing over the fitting. The fitting is now exposed.

That line is held in place by a tiny circlip, or "C" clip. Use a little pick, or a real small screwdriver, and pull that out of it's little channel. Be careful, it likes to go flying when it comes loose...

Once that is off, you should be able to simply pull the line out. Pulling to the left, as seen here... This apparently is just a tapered fitting...

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


You can see there, I have pulled off the line. Some will probably drip. That's what the rag is for.

Now, you are going to have to purchase (or find in your garage) some line... I used a 3/4 inch inside diameter by 1" outside diameter piece of plastic line, like so.

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


That is the line, forced over the entire fitting area.

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


In case this picture is a little better, another look.

Now, you need an assistant because you are going to have to stand there and hold the line in place.

The other end of the line should be routed into a large drain pain. I used a big yellow radiator style pan, and it was barely big enough. Also, it would really help if fluid didn't "back up" in the line, so route the line DOWN through the engine compartment, into your pan. I used like about a 5 or 6 foot piece of that line.

What's going to happen is this:

Step 1: Assistant will start the truck. Transmission Fluid will start flowing STRONGLY out of that fitting, into your hose, and down into the pan. It comes out HARD. Keep holding that hose! There is no need to rev the engine. Just start it and let it idle.

Step 2: It will only take a few seconds, and the flow will start to sputter. 7 or 8 seconds maybe??? Not real long.

Step 3: IMMEDIATELY when you see sputtering, signal your assistant to shut off the truck. Roughly 2 or 3 quarts will have come out.

Step 4: Add 2 or 3 quarts of Dexron VI (thats dexron six) through the dipstick tube, thus replacing what you just pumped out.

Step 5: Go back to step One.

You will do that a few times. I ended up pumping out about 15-16 quarts, roughly....

You are looking for bright clean red Dexron to come out into your line. If you use a clear line, like I did, it will be quite apparent when you are no longer pumping out scuzzy brown fluid, and are now pumping bright ruby red fluid....

When bright red fluid comes out, you could stop.... or you could do ONE more cycle, for laughs, just to be sure....

When you've had enough, get your clear plastic line out of there.

Replace the circlip in the fitting, and then press the silver line back into the hole. The line will "click" back into place when the fitting on the line passes through the circlip.

It doesn't seem like the greatest setup, but I must say, I have no seeping, no leaking, nothing. Total bone dryness.

Then do the last refill, put like 2 quarts in through the dipstick tube. To sum up, basically you are using the engine to pump out, and you are replacing with fresh. Just keep repeating that until fresh stuff makes it all the way back to you, and your tube.

Tranny fluid on this truck should be checked with the truck on level ground, engine warm, engine on and idling.

Because the dipstick tube is so long, and at such a "flat" angle, I tended to get a "false full" reading. It was close, however. But if you wait a day, drive it somewhere, and check it, that's a better reading.

Over the course of 3 or 4 days, I added maybe another quart, in 1/2 quart increments. You don't want to over fill this!!

Also, let me note:

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


I used this stuff. There's a service bulletin out there somewhere that says going forward, all tranny fluid should be Dexron VI. It's apparently backwards compatible with anything that ever used Dexron III. Now, the GM Dex 6 has an amazing price, at least around here. This stuff I found at Advance Auto Parts for about $4 a quart. I have also seen at Wal-Mart, there is a "Super-Tech" brand Dexron 6 that is even more reasonable.

That's what I did, and it worked for me. Admittedly, this is a little "quick and dirty", but it's probably WAY better than the "nothing" that most people do....

Good luck.
 
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#32 · (Edited)
Question regarding transmission filter and fluid change in low mileage 2004 ESV:
I bought this truck with very low mileage and wanted to ensure all maintenance was up-to-date. I did have a hard time removing the transmission pan, but eventually did and got the fluid changed too (Dex VI). However, now I feel some "slipping" between 4-5th gear shifts around 50-55mph where the tachometer jumps between 1500-2000rpm very briefly. It does not always happen, but often enough that I concerned I knocked something loose while under there.

The truck (2004 ESV) has only 60k miles and the old fluid looked very clean when I 'flushed' using the pump method into bucket. Therefore I think the transmission is good, but I must have done something. What could I have done that would have taken a nice shifting transmission and caused a poor 4-5th shift?


UPDATE: Thanks to 'Cadillac Man', I now understand that I was not checking the fluid level properly. Checking and adding fluid while at 'operating temp' revealed I was nearly 2 qts low! Thank you, sir.
 
#34 · (Edited)
I have just changed my fluid and filter a couple days ago in my 2006 and it took exactly 5 quarts like the service manual states to top it off when warmed up.

Also 5 quarts of oil is what came out of the pan when I measure the amount I removed.

Tip: To minimize making a large mess if you have the pan without the drain plug like I did, use a suction device to suck the fluid out of the pan when you first crack it open and a little fluid begins to drain out.

I used my Power Built fluid extractor to drain the pan which made the job much cleaner and easier especially if you have to use a pry bar to move the shift cable bracket to remove the pan.

The Power Built extractor has a very small and flexible hose that can slide though a narrow crack in the pan opening.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-6...d=1469883573&sr=8-18&keywords=fluid+extractor

I also added an extra round magnet on top of the existing round magnet in the pan for a stronger magnetic field to pull more metal crap out of the fluid as well as changing out my pan for a Dorman steel pan with the drain plug so I can drain-and-fill every 30k miles.

Tip for the new steel pan with drain bolt, open the drain plug before filling it with fluid and lubricate the threads with fresh transmission fluid to minimize corrosion and reinstall since the plugs are very tight from the factory which could be an issue later down the road when it comes time to open them the first time since they are steel.
 
#35 ·
I just had a local shop do a complete drain and filter for $200.00 OTD. First they dropped the pan and changed filter. Then removed the 2 radiator cooler transmission lines. Hooked a machine up to both, the machine did not force any ATF through, it allows the trucks transmission pump to pump/dump ATF. The total process took about an hour and a half. All ATF was replaced. I have noticed smoother shifting. I went a little over the scheduled service this time. First time was at 100,000, this time 140,000 (240,000 total miles on my transmission). I believe I might full service at every 75,000 in the future.

I don't know if I truly believe that the ATF needs to be drained 4~5 qts. every 30,000 miles. As most of you know, I DIY everything on our vehicles. I was going to try the 5 gallon buckets, 1 filled with new ATF and one empty to pump and dump. I just wasn't up to the task.
 
#36 · (Edited)
To be honest every 30k miles would be over-kill in my opinion if I removed all the fluid at once like in a flush, however since I only drained 5 quarts (about half the fluid)I will just drain about 3.5 quarts from the drain plug in my new pan every 30k miles to keep fresh fluids in the transmission.

Maybe over-kill, but I always just over do something that not doing enough.

I will drop the pan every 100k miles and change the filter.

So actually i will do two 30k drain and fills and then a 40k filter change in a 100k mile time period.

LOL. I should have just flushed the transmission.:bigroll:
 
#37 ·
Alright, changing the transmission fluid in an Escalade...

Again, these photos are from a 2004 Escalade, AWD, 6.0 Liter V8, Vin N Engine. If you're not sure on the engine, the 8th letter of your Vin is the Engine code.

Right up front, I'm gonna tell you, this may not be "according to Hoyle", okay.... This method is sort of "borrowed" from what I picked up from some guys who used this method on Eldorados and Sevilles.... I did this to my Eldorado Touring Coupe, and it worked great. I just did the Escalade a month ago, and it worked out great, I have no issues whatsoever.

This is not flushing. This is merely pumping out the old, and filling it with new. No dropping of the pan is required. I'm very suspicious that this is what they do at dealers, maybe, because the dealers near me don't stock filters, you have to order it. So, I get the impression they don't drop the pan either.

Whatever. Ideally, in a perfect world, you would drop the pan, change the filters and gasket, replaced the pan, refill with fluid, and THEN do the procedure you are about to read.

I admit, all I did was what you are about to read. The truck only had upper 40's on it, so....

Okay, first, you are going to need an assistant to do this. The assistant will sit in the truck, and will start the engine when told to do so, and will shut off the engine when told to do so. I am very fortunate to have my GF, "The Doc", as my assistant.... You'd think a University Professor and Research Scientist at a Hospital would be smart enough not to associate with people like me.... what can I say.

Alright, with the hood up, standing on the passneger side of the engine bay, looking in at the backside of the radiator area, you should see something like this:

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


See that little silver line, with the rag under it?? That's a return line from the transmission cooler. In that photo, I have pulled back a black plastic thing over the fitting. The fitting is now exposed.

That line is held in place by a tiny circlip, or "C" clip. Use a little pick, or a real small screwdriver, and pull that out of it's little channel. Be careful, it likes to go flying when it comes loose...

Once that is off, you should be able to simply pull the line out. Pulling to the left, as seen here... This apparently is just a tapered fitting...

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


You can see there, I have pulled off the line. Some will probably drip. That's what the rag is for.

Now, you are going to have to purchase (or find in your garage) some line... I used a 3/4 inch inside diameter by 1" outside diameter piece of plastic line, like so.

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


That is the line, forced over the entire fitting area.

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


In case this picture is a little better, another look.

Now, you need an assistant because you are going to have to stand there and hold the line in place.

The other end of the line should be routed into a large drain pain. I used a big yellow radiator style pan, and it was barely big enough. Also, it would really help if fluid didn't "back up" in the line, so route the line DOWN through the engine compartment, into your pan. I used like about a 5 or 6 foot piece of that line.

What's going to happen is this:

Step 1: Assistant will start the truck. Transmission Fluid will start flowing STRONGLY out of that fitting, into your hose, and down into the pan. It comes out HARD. Keep holding that hose! There is no need to rev the engine. Just start it and let it idle.

Step 2: It will only take a few seconds, and the flow will start to sputter. 7 or 8 seconds maybe??? Not real long.

Step 3: IMMEDIATELY when you see sputtering, signal your assistant to shut off the truck. Roughly 2 or 3 quarts will have come out.

Step 4: Add 2 or 3 quarts of Dexron VI (thats dexron six) through the dipstick tube, thus replacing what you just pumped out.

Step 5: Go back to step One.

You will do that a few times. I ended up pumping out about 15-16 quarts, roughly....

You are looking for bright clean red Dexron to come out into your line. If you use a clear line, like I did, it will be quite apparent when you are no longer pumping out scuzzy brown fluid, and are now pumping bright ruby red fluid....

When bright red fluid comes out, you could stop.... or you could do ONE more cycle, for laughs, just to be sure....

When you've had enough, get your clear plastic line out of there.

Replace the circlip in the fitting, and then press the silver line back into the hole. The line will "click" back into place when the fitting on the line passes through the circlip.

It doesn't seem like the greatest setup, but I must say, I have no seeping, no leaking, nothing. Total bone dryness.

Then do the last refill, put like 2 quarts in through the dipstick tube. To sum up, basically you are using the engine to pump out, and you are replacing with fresh. Just keep repeating that until fresh stuff makes it all the way back to you, and your tube.

Tranny fluid on this truck should be checked with the truck on level ground, engine warm, engine on and idling.

Because the dipstick tube is so long, and at such a "flat" angle, I tended to get a "false full" reading. It was close, however. But if you wait a day, drive it somewhere, and check it, that's a better reading.

Over the course of 3 or 4 days, I added maybe another quart, in 1/2 quart increments. You don't want to over fill this!!

Also, let me note:

Reduced: 64% of original size [ 800 x 600 ] - Click to view full image


I used this stuff. There's a service bulletin out there somewhere that says going forward, all tranny fluid should be Dexron VI. It's apparently backwards compatible with anything that ever used Dexron III. Now, the GM Dex 6 has an amazing price, at least around here. This stuff I found at Advance Auto Parts for about $4 a quart. I have also seen at Wal-Mart, there is a "Super-Tech" brand Dexron 6 that is even more reasonable.

That's what I did, and it worked for me. Admittedly, this is a little "quick and dirty", but it's probably WAY better than the "nothing" that most people do....

Good luck.
How long will Escalade transmission last ?
I'm wanting to buy a Escalade with $15,000 so I'm thinking I'm going to get stuck with a bad transmission.
I have not found one Escalade that has maintenance records.
I live near Louisville Kentucky
 
#38 ·
drai

The 4L65E transmission seem to last about 200k miles before needing an repair on average.
 
#41 ·
Maybe that's why you're supposed to change all the fluid and the filter at 90,000 miles. I want to buy an Escalade but I don't want to buy one with the worn out transmission or even a neglected transmission.
When I go for a test drive I suppose I should go to the transmission shop and have it pressure tested.
 
#43 ·
That's a bummer. Have had trouble with Dodge transmissions in the late seventies. Always changing transmissions in my old van. It was easy and inexpensive.
I wanted to celebrate the fact I made it on this planet 62 years and received my first social security check. My life savings is only $12,000. So there's no money left to hire someone to replace the transmission.
Have been seeing vehicles for sale that had parts replaced that involved the serpent belt. That makes me wonder if someone kept driving the vehicle while the engine was getting hot.
I was in hurry to buy a vehicle in the recent past and got a Mercury mountaineer with a cracked head. It limbed along through the winter but it couldn't take the summer heat. It set in the barn for months because my back was injured. Finally with a little help I replaced the engine. I definitely don't want to go through that again and can't.
I'm thinking I might look at a vehicle that's for sale nearby and take it to a transmission shop and ask it be check for transmission pump pressure.
What do y'all think about that idea ?
Louisville Kentucky area.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Again, even if the transmission pump checks out there is still a possibility of some other part of the transmission failing. The only way for a transmission shop to truly inspect the transmission internal condition would be to tear it apart and inspect it.

Be prepared to have to repair any high mileage used car that you purchase. Especially a used Cadillac Escalade. You will probably be better off buying a used Toyota SUV if you are concerned about transmission repair work. Toyota SUV/Truck RWD transmissions are pretty reliable with higher mileages. GM transmissions not so much.
 
#45 ·
That's good to know. I don't know why I'm so stuck on the Escalade. Maybe because I want a soft ride on rough roads because my spine's damaged.
I suppose no vehicle is manufactured in USA.
A bunch of Chinese parts put together does not mean American made.
I did some work for Toyota years ago. It was the worst paying job that I've done. Japanese expect Americans to wait on them hand and foot. The Japanese at the Toyota Assembly plant demand to be treated like royalty by the American peasants.
I did some work for Honda too. They were easier to get along with and the pay was a little better.
I made better money working for Chrysler and Ford. They were very easy to get along with. everyone is treated equally. They don't look down their nose at truck drivers.
 
#46 ·
I am not sure about how Toyota executives feel about American workers, but Toyota do make some reliable engines and transmissions. If you want a fairly reliable high mileage used SUV/truck that will run decent even if it was not properly maintained; buy a Toyota. They are not perfect, but they tend to run very well even with over 200k miles without needing any major repair work.

GM products not so much. Be prepared to spend some of your savings on a transmission rebuild if you pull the trigger on that used Escalade.
 
#47 ·
I looked at a few Toyota full size SUVs on the internet. The hood in the front looks like a car.
It looks like half car half SUV.
The prices r a lot higher than Cadillac. I googled the miles to expect from a transmission it 200 to 300,000 miles if properly maintained.
Chevrolet was the same.
No salesman can show me where any transmission fluid has been changed at 90,000 miles. That tells me that no car owners want to spend the money on the preventive maintenance.
The fluid needs to be pumped out of the cooling system and the torque converter. The pan needs to come off and the filter changed. So owner needs to pay about $200. Probably 300 now that the petroleum is outrageous.
Most lazy salesmen won't even look for the maintenance records. Vanity is a terrible thing to live with. I think they spend most of the day looking at themselves in the mirror. Sadly they get a paycheck for that.
 
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