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Cadillac Escalade, EXT and ESV Forum - 1999 - 2006 Discussion, Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located? in Cadillac Escalade Forums; I got the "Service Ride Control" warning on my 06 Escalade a couple days ago. I sat down and read ...
  1. #376
    SugsPa is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    I got the "Service Ride Control" warning on my 06 Escalade a couple days ago. I sat down and read all 25 pages of this thread and went outside and repaired my ride control system. Thanks to SK7, Luxurylife33 and several others on here who put in thier comments, it was a snap to fix. I went through all the troubleshooting steps, compressor ran when I jumped pin 30 and 87, pulled the compressor off, took apart the exhaust relay, sautered(?) the little wire back on to the selinoid, put it back together and it works great. Saved me about $240.00, plus, I need the Escalade for a trip in a couple of days and couldn't wait on a new pump. I thought it would be a long shot that one of the wires on the exhaust selinoid would be broken cause my Escalade has been garage kept and pampered since it was bought new by my wife and I. But sure enough it was broken. Again, Thanks to All,

    SugsPa

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    c32k05 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    I know this thread is a little old, but was very helpful when I went to troubleshoot my SRC message. Found out that my local Advance Auto Parts had the Dorman Compressor kit instock at the price of $454.99. Called them up for a price match of Rock Auto at 237.79 (Cheaper than Amazon currently) and picked it up about an hour later. I tried to pull the exhaust solenoid apart to see if the wires were just broken and did not see anything loose or broken. New kit plug and play and works great!

  3. #378
    Mark Edward Morrison's Avatar
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    They matched it at your local Advanced Auto? That is AWESOME!! I can't believe they did a price match against an Internet company like Rock Auto.

    ----------

    Just called my local Advance Auto parts here in OKC, had it in stock, asked if he did price matching and he said YES, I said Rock Auto has it for $279 and he politely and quickly said "We don't price match Internet companies"! You got REAL lucky your local store matched that price!!

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    praelade is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    I have the dreaded message. I jumped the relay and compressor kicks on. I soldered the exhaust solenoid but it still dosent work. I tested relay and it is functional. What do I look at now?

  5. #380
    the cadillac man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by praelade
    I have the dreaded message. I jumped the relay and compressor kicks on. I soldered the exhaust solenoid but it still dosent work. I tested relay and it is functional. What do I look at now?
    Most likely there is a code in the system

    Get them pulled at a gm dealer

  6. #381
    c32k05 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    [/COLOR]Just called my local Advance Auto parts here in OKC, had it in stock, asked if he did price matching and he said YES, I said Rock Auto has it for $279 and he politely and quickly said "We don't price match Internet companies"! You got REAL lucky your local store matched that price!![/QUOTE]

    Sorry. That was a little confusing. Call the 800 # on the website and they will match it. When doing so tell them that a local store shows they have one in stock and you would like to pick it up in store if possible. The store level apparently doesn't have the authority to match it but if you call they will match Rock Auto. Current price being 239.79 at rock auto. Sales tax would apply since your picking up local, but no waiting for it to ship if you need it in a hurry.

  7. #382
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    I've spent a few days trying to disable the "Service Ride Control" error on my dash so that I could pass vehicle inspection (this state is a stickler for "if it's there, it must be operable"). Shocks are in good shape (no leaks and good responsiveness). One of the rear air bladders sprung a leak at some point. Okay, so it's time to replace rear set of shocks.

    - Replace Rear Shocks with AC Delco / GM: Good idea to maintain the design of vehicle (2004 Escalade ESV). Problem is cost - those AC Delco shocks are ridiculously priced. No biggie, someone else must make a "knock-off". Monroe was only marginally less costly with less than desirable reviews. Then I found the Arnott rebuilt OEM shocks.

    - Replace Rear Shocks with Arnott Rebuilt OEM: Excellent pricing. Just before clicking the "Pay Now" button, I thought perhaps I should get fronts as well. Problem is, I can't find front rebuilt OEM's from Arnott. I call them up ask why they carry rear rebuilt, but not front rebuilt. Doesn't make sense to set up shop to only offer rears. The representative couldn't explain why, other than "that's what we sell". Clearly, I needed to research this further. I want a fully working OEM Z55 system, as designed when I purchased the truck. This is when I discovered that Arnott "OEM rebuilt" is NOT a rebuilt "shock" - it's a replaced bladder and sensor / solenoid (at most). The shock is someone else's used shock with no "rebuilding". Maybe it's got 80k miles, 100k, 150k? It could be on it's last few k miles before busting. Back to the drawing board.

    - Disable Ride Control as Interim Measure: To pass inspection, I will simply disable the ride control (Z55). The shocks are not leaking, ride handling is good, so I will simply disable for now and replace with factory shocks when I can budget for them. Let the games begin!

    - Diagnose System: Relay is functional. Compressor not. Okay, time to pull the compressor and diagnose. The shock bladder leak allowed moisture into the compressor, seizing it with corrosion.

    - Fix Compressor: So, I rebuild the compressor. It's working - nice. Still, no dice. Further, corrosion spread to the exhaust solenoid, which burnt out the + side of coil.

    - Fix Exhaust Solenoid: Many seem to have fixed this fairly easily. Well, mine wouldn't be so nice. The break in wire was on interior of coil spindle! Rebuilding the solenoid went well, until I knoted the wire while respooling - forget the coil. Time for workaround. 4.7k ohm resistor inline with the solenoid leads. Wonderful. Still no dice with electronic suspension control (ESC) - still get "Service Ride Control". Testing of system now shows what looks like a faulty LF body position sensor! No end!

    - Fix LF Body Position Sensor: I'm tired trying to fix this thing. So I am trying to find a real way to truly disable the ESC without all of these kluges. The only solution on the market I can see which truly disables the ESC seems to be from Arnott. Elegant solution apparently. It completely disconnects the ESC and feeds a "all good" signal over the Serial 2 line to PCM. Oh, but this is only had if you buy their "shocks". Standalone, it's $400 (!!!). No dice. My workaround, which finally got rid of the "Service Ride Control", is good enough for now. Sharing that solution here with folks, since I am sure someone will benefit from this.

    - Trick ECM into Thinking Body Level: My final fix was to jumper the A2, A4, A5, and A7 of the 24-way F Micro-Pack (LT BLU) which plugs into the ESC. This presents the same voltage on LF, LR, RF, and RR body position sensors - which finally stopped the errors. Drove it pretty hard and cannot get the error back. Suspension feels relatively firm. At some point I will check on forcing the shock solenoids into "firm" ride - if their not already.


    Anyway, hope my cliff notes help someone. Much of this was based on trial-and-error, since my OBD-II Scan Tool does not read the ESC codes. My next research will be to find specifications on the Serial II data exchange, to build an ESC "emulator" for much less than $400... Or, alternatively, what jumpers are needed to the existing ESC to prevent all fail signals (steering signal, Damping Lift / Dive Signal, Leveling Pressure Signal, etc).

  8. #383
    Txao1051's Avatar
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    Don't laugh at me but I'm sure it's been mentioned but, I can hear my compressor come on but still get the service air ride. Any help would be appreciated

  9. #384
    Atreides's Avatar
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    Quote Originally Posted by Txao1051 View Post
    Don't laugh at me but I'm sure it's been mentioned but, I can hear my compressor come on but still get the service air ride. Any help would be appreciated
    My advise to anyone who is having problems beyond a blown fuse or relay (not powering compressor) is to obtain the service manual, since the electronic suspension has quite a bit to it. My notes below, based on my own stumbling, are biased towards circumventing the error (disabling ESC). Clearly, if you want a functioning electrical suspension system, instead of bypassing / tricking circuitys, you would be replacing / repairing the appropriate defective components. I would break troubleshooting into two events:

    - Ignition Triggered Failure: Defective exhaust solenoid circuit (compressor assembly) - There are descriptions within this thread of testing and repairing the exhaust solenoid. If you can't fix it, bridge the leads with approximately 4.7kOhm 1/2 Watt or greater resistor.

    - Ignition Triggered Failure: Defective damper solenoid (shock) - ESC is checking for 1.5-3.3 Ohms per solenoid. If 1 or more of these are failed (replaced), using a high wattage 3 ohm resistor would remedy this failure. I don't know exact wattage required (and don't feel like doing the math right now). I know the circuit initially gets energized with 12-14v and then is pulsed. That initial load will fry small 1/4 watt type resistors. My guess would be 1 watt or greater (heard success with these). Some have gone big with 15W-25W resistors. Their cheap, so go for the 15W-25W and don't worry about it again.

    - Ignition Triggered Failure: Defective ESC - Worst case, need a new unit. Fortunately, I've not seen this (yet).

    - Driving >0 MPH Triggered Failure: Defective suspension position sensor - My testing has confirmed that balancing these values fool ESC into believing the vehicle is level. So, if your failure is happening only when you begin driving, this might solve it. Again, this is based on my "poking around in the dark". The documentation around logic within the ESC "black box" is poor, since it's focused towards a technician finding and fixing - not circumventing - the problem. Also, not having the right tools makes it quite a "black box". Ideally, a "tech II" code reader would be utilized to see exactly what errors are being thrown. Instead of tricking ESC into thinking the vehicle is level, one could also trick the ESC into thinking it is effectively trying to level the vehicle (i.e. reading air pressure sensor, checking resistance/voltage across damper solenoid, etc). Anyway, these are cliff notes - not instructions.

    Steering position sensor circuit will trigger with ignition and engine on, but as I understand this won't create a "Service Ride Control" error. Haven't tested this.

    Another note. After I realized my solenoid was defective, I removed the compressor relay so that the compressor doesn't run endlessly / uselessly. This was fine during initial testing, since the "Service Ride Control" error was only displaying during drive > 0MPH. During my testing yesterday, I was getting an error on ignition only. Testing all of the circuits which would cause ignition failure (i.e. dampers and exhaust solenoid), they checked out fine (same values as previous testing). I plugged the compressor relay back in and the ignition level error went away. Not a clue why this is - since I didn't believe the ESC was testing the the relay. It's possible that putting the relay back in was coincidental with something else correcting itself. Since things are working, I am leaving well enough alone - for now.

    Hope this helps a bit.

  10. #385
    Jaycaddy is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    I am baffled. I got code c0660 exhaust valve circuit. Bench tested my compressor and it works. Jumped the relay and pump turns on. To apart exhaust solenoid and both wires were still connected. The bronze piston inside the solenoid was dirty so I cleaned that up. Remounted compressor to escalade, aired up the shocks by jumping it at the relay and they started leaking down slowly. I noticed an air leak where drier connects to compressor. What do you think is keeping the compressor from kicking on. Should I buy a new relay? I'm ready pull what little hair I have out.

  11. #386
    the cadillac man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaycaddy
    I am baffled. I got code c0660 exhaust valve circuit. Bench tested my compressor and it works. Jumped the relay and pump turns on. To apart exhaust solenoid and both wires were still connected. The bronze piston inside the solenoid was dirty so I cleaned that up. Remounted compressor to escalade, aired up the shocks by jumping it at the relay and they started leaking down slowly. I noticed an air leak where drier connects to compressor. What do you think is keeping the compressor from kicking on. Should I buy a new relay? I'm ready pull what little hair I have out.
    That code means the compressor will need replacing

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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jaycaddy View Post
    I am baffled. I got code c0660 exhaust valve circuit. Bench tested my compressor and it works. Jumped the relay and pump turns on. To apart exhaust solenoid and both wires were still connected. The bronze piston inside the solenoid was dirty so I cleaned that up. Remounted compressor to escalade, aired up the shocks by jumping it at the relay and they started leaking down slowly. I noticed an air leak where drier connects to compressor. What do you think is keeping the compressor from kicking on. Should I buy a new relay? I'm ready pull what little hair I have out.
    Do you get around 4.7k Ohm across the solenoid leads? Bear in mind that the coil wire could break in a non-visible location.

  13. #388
    Jaycaddy is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    Am I checking for the ohms while vehicle is running or when it's on the bench?

  14. #389
    the cadillac man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaycaddy
    Am I checking for the ohms while vehicle is running or when it's on the bench?
    Always do checks like this on a bench

  15. #390
    Jaycaddy is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Answer the 1Million Question: Where is the air ride control relay located?

    I did the ohms reading and it did not register anything. I un-spooled half of the copper wire and decided the heck with it and just soldered a bridge from one to the other. I got a good reading. I will put in tomorrow and see what happens.

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