I know there are two engine mounts..front and rear. There is also a transmission mount on the drivers side of the engine. There are also engine brackets and etc on the passenger side of the engine.
I was thinking of replacing my front mount sooooon. Was studying 2 youtube vids and it "appears" to be easier to drop the front subframe bolts (as Danog says) and raise the engine. My hope is to pull the bracket and mount out as an assembly, if possible.
I recently had my front mount replaced at a local shop, not the dealer. The mount was $85 and the labor was $100. The car was ready in about an hour. Just to give you an idea of the cost to outsource.
LOL. I also notice a few of the TRQ videos do that. I find it overkill. Maybe its directed in such a way from the manufacture's
recommendations?
On the price of the mounts, I usually compare the brands (if known on Amazon) to Rockauto's same price and brand. And chose Amazon most times because Rockauto's shipping rates are high. I think the price is fair for all 4 mounts.
I called the Chevy dealership I took my car to about the motor mounts and he said, "Both of my front motor mounts are bad but they don't have the special tool to replace them so I'd have to go to a Cadillac dealership. They're the only ones that would have the tool."
Can someone explain that to me? I thought there was one mount on the front and one on the rear? And does anyone know of a special tool?
Soapm, You have the 08 DTS Luxury III, correct? I have the 09 DTS Base. I know NOT of a "special tool". As for mounts, all I know is, one front (bottom center), one rear (at passenger right wheel), one on left (at drivers left wheel) and top right torque strut (to the left of coolant reservoir, dog bone looking) 4 total.
Yup, and looks like the one on the front is the only real pain to change??? I guess that was their way of saying take it some where's else, we don't want that job.
I replaced all of the mounts. It's doable but the front mount is a pita. But it's worth replacing bad mounts. The car is so smooth running with the new mounts.
Got my car back today for $811.51 out the door. I think that mounts been bad since I had the car because it's like adjusting to a new car all over again. No vibration when I accelerate and no mushiness from a start. Best money I've ever spent on the car.
Here's the kicker, the part number on the invoice is B3166 and I googled it and it pulls up the mount at O'Reilly's. The difference is I paid $242.97 for it. As Omac said I do hope it's quality but then I realize the factory mount went out before 40K when I got the car. I'm just over 96K now.
A shop got me that way once, with my wheel/hub bearings. When I changed them myself a few month ago I looked up the part number and found they were about $28.00 each (front) Bastards told me they were $150 each. They lasted about one and a half years. But you got your moneys worth from your original mount, at least 56k miles worth. Plus it depends on driving habits and style. You paid a nice penny but im happy that your driving smoothly back in business.
So very true Omac.Its like ......be happy its fixed right, with the parts you say you put in and pay the extra or be frustrated because we could have saved money and try figuring it out for ourselves over 2 or 3 days and have those body aches, LOL.
But the cherry on top is the car being fixed right for that mark up....at least.
Uh Oh......while looking through some old pics of my undercarriage I noticed something.... I was "planning" on changing my front motor mount... Look at the bottom screw. Who sees what I mean? The first pic was taken a couple weeks after I bought car 7/25/2020 (used of course)....The second was taken 4/10/2021.
Nope, not worried about the rust Submariner409. Laughing at myself, I was getting a thumping sound from stand still upon acceleration and this was early part of last year, so it fixed the thump, I paid one of my mechanics, trustworthy guy also. I never asked em which one he changed.....I called em this morning and he told me, He changed the front mount. I started laughing. Now im getting ready to walk out house to send the front mount I bought back. Im gonna order the rear (passenger side) and install it. I changed the tranny mount 2 weeks ago and it idles and shift much smoother. All thats left is the rear, so...I just wanna do it. I also had my lower control arms changed instead of just the bushings. and also the oil adapter gasket was changed. They didnt even wipe the oil off the pan and close areas. I did after.
How many miles since he changed the front one? They don't appear to last too long. I'm thinking of trying the reinforcement trick sub linked to before to see if they last a little longer.
I bought it with 97k and now im at 104k .... so I did about 7,500 miles in 2 years and 4 months. Id say the front mount was changed about 100k miles. But Soapm the front mount is fine. I thought I would change it really just as preventive maintenance assuming my mechanic changed the rear, but he changed the front. So im gonna do the rear. Then all will be changed within 4k miles (approximately). I did the torque strut already over a year ago too.
Hey guys, I received my rear (passenger side) motor mount. Would it suffice to place a jack stand under only the passenger side or both drivers and passenger side to replace this mount?
It would be a LOT easier and much safer with the car up on a 4-point lift. It CAN be done up on 2 jackstands but it's close quarters. You'll be working with hydraulic jacks and stands to raise/support the engine assembly.
Yes Submariner409 thats a fact. But I dont have access to a lift. How about taking the nut off the top of the mount (not having to disturb the bracket) and dropping the 2 passenger side sub frame bolts while car is on 2 jack stands, with hydraulic jack holding cross-member near mount.
This morning I go out to do the rear mount replacement and after getting the car up on stands, I placed my hydraulic jack under rear cross member and dropped the 2 sub frame screws and top screw on mount. I sprayed the mount bolts with PB blaster. (I didnt see your post prior to starting this job Omac) I then lowered the jack assuming the mount would drop from the top. but it didnt. so I take a thorough look at the mount AND....its in great condition. The rubber was great and and firm but not brittle feeling, and no leakage. I did take another pic but it was out of focus. I decided to reattach everything. I will be returning the mount. I get smooth shifts without vibration so thats why im returning it. So im done with all mounts.
This morning I go out to do the rear mount replacement and after getting the car up on stands, I placed my hydraulic jack under rear cross member and dropped the 2 sub frame screws and top screw on mount. I sprayed the mount bolts with PB blaster. (I didnt see your post prior to starting this job Omac) I then lowered the jack assuming the mount would drop from the top. but it didnt. so I take a thorough look at the mount AND....its in great condition. The rubber was great and and firm but not brittle feeling, and no leakage. I did take another pic but it was out of focus. I decided to reattach everything. I will be returning the mount. I get smooth shifts without vibration so that why im returning it. So im done with all mounts. View attachment 627046
out of focus below...
View attachment 627050
I agree the mount looks relatively new in great shape. You should be good now for a long time.
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