Disabling DRL's on the 06 DTS?

[fleetwood96]

Has anyone figured out how to disable the 06/07 DTS Turn-signal based Daytime Running Lights? I really don't like that GM has been using turn signal bulbs for DRLs on a number of their cars & trucks. I don't like how it looks going down the street, and I've also seen a number of cars with one of their turn signal/DRL bulbs burned out. How are you suppose so signal like that? I realize that the Xenon headlamps aren't suited for DRL duty, but how about separate/dedicated bulbs for that, much like the Chevy trucks have?

Anyhow, I much prefer the look of the DTS with either just the parking lamps on or the parking lamps + the fog lamps. I attempted to "hard wire" the parking lamps, which I can do at the rear fuse panel, but that didn't stop the DRL's from coming on when I started the engine. I'm hoping that this is still a module somewhere and not imbedded in one of the main computers! I don't have a service manual (yet) to look this up. Does anyone have any ideas to share???

[cubldr]

DRLs can be problematic in otherways than appearance too. I drove 3 Old's 98s and 2 Park Ave's before trading to the 06 DTS. The others all had that great 3800 V-6 but it consumed alternators every 40K miles and the DRLs will run a battery down in no time if your alternator fails out on the road. On the older model sedans I mentioned that did not have DRLs, I could drive a long time (during the day of course) with a failed altenator. It is amazing how long a car can run with only a battery (sans lights) whereas the lights will run the battery down in no time.

So for me I see DRL's as breakdown safety issue if your alternator fails out on the road. Perhaps the Northstar alternators will be more long lived than the GM 3800s which were otherwise bulletproof engines.

Or maybe I just need to trade more often.

[z06bigbird]

GM had a poor design on their alternators from about 1982 through about 1997. Diodes were soldered to bearing, and heat killed many of them.

Newer cars no longer have that problem.

Should we congratulate GM for that speedy repair??

Many Buicks and Olds with 3800 engine have 200,000 miles on them, according to classified ads. Great cars.

[GTXgp]

There is a fuse-box under the rear seat (if you haven't found it already). There is a DRL fuse that you can pull that will simply disable the DRLs. That's about the easiest thing to do.

Adam

[Superjim]

Thanks, Will check it out.

Jim

[ewill3rd]

The DRLs are controlled directly by the BCM on DTS.
DTS has no DRL fuse in the rear fuse block. There is a label for a DRL fuse but that is for Lucerne and export vehicles only.

Light bulbs burn out regardless of whether or not they are used as DRLs, so the issue of not being able to use your turn signals exists whether or not the car has DRLs.
The magnetic force generated by the current flow through the filament actually helps keep the bulb from burning out as the car goes over bumps.
The only issue I see on most modern vehicles with light bulbs has more to do with an engineering issue related to the contact on the bulb not having enough surface area, this causes current flow issues which generates heat and damages the socket or the bulb.

The only thing you might try is this.
Manually operate your lights, you said you prefer the park light look or the lights on look. You can manually turn those lights on and not worry about the DRLs at all. Remember in most states it is illegal to drive with your parking lights on.
Secondly, the DTS has a springloaded position that enables you to override the light control. If you turn the knob to the left it disables automatic lighting, and I believe it will deactivate the DRL function.
DRLs have been standard equipment on GM cars and light trucks since 1997. The original systems were very hard to deactivate even temporarily. The military requires you to dim your lights on entry to a base, and this became and issue. GM quickly redesigned each system so it could be driver deactivated and reactivated.
The methods are weird and change from year to year and car to car but they all have them now. This manual deactivation resets with a key cycle.

Yeah, it sucks you'd have to do that every time you start your car but it is really your only out.

[GTXgp]

If there really isn't a DRL fuse in the DTS (which I would be incredibly surprised by since they are sister cars) ...then there should ALSO be a DRL relay in the same fuse box that you can also easily remove to disable the DRLs.

[ewill3rd]

The DRLs are controlled directly by the BCM on DTS.

There is no relay for the DRLs.
They have a constant ground and are fed power from transistors internal to the BCM, directly.

You can certainly look for DRL fuses or Relays, and I haven't tried it... nor do I recommend it, but you can pull anything that looks related and see what you get.
Looking at the schematics makes it pretty obvious to me that pulling fuses and relays is just going to turn off stuff that you want.

I hope you found some helpful information in here somewhere.

[GTXgp]

Looking at the schematics makes it pretty obvious to me that pulling fuses and relays is just going to turn off stuff that you want.

Maybe I am missing something here, but isn't that the point of this thread? The original poster wanted a way to disable to DRLs, and that is what we are trying to accomplish here. I have the schematics sitting here myself and the lucerne's DRLs are controlled by the BCM identical to the DTS. I had both a fuse AND a relay because while the BCM may control the DRLs directly, it is still going to need a fuse AND a relay to protect the circuit (fuse) and provide power to the lights themselves (relay).... that is basic electronics 101. By pulling the fuse and/or relay related to DRLs you will ONLY disable the DRLs and you will not interfere with the twilight sentinal or rain sensing headlight control. I know all of this because I have seen it in a schematic AND done it myself.

Since you work at a dealership, why don't you check out a DTS for yourself on Monday... it would save me the trouble of having to go to a dealership myself, find out what I already know, take a picture of it for you, and end this discussion.

[ewill3rd]

I meant stuff you DON'T want, sorry for the confusion.

What you say may work, as I stated before, however I spend my time keeping factory equipment working, not disabling it so I am probably not the best source for how to bypass this feature.

[GTXgp]

Originally Posted by ewill3rd

What you say may work, as I stated before, however I spend my time keeping factory equipment working, not disabling it so I am probably not the best source for how to bypass this feature.

I understand... but if people want the same canned answer, they can just go to their dealer and ask the same question. People come here to ask questions because they are "enthusiasts" and are looking for ways to accomplish things outside of the box. Don't shoot down an approach simply because it is not what GM teaches YOU

[ewill3rd]

I am not shooting down anything, I am just telling the truth as I know it.
It is my opinion, and my understanding of the subject.
If it is wrong, it is wrong.
Take it or leave it.

I spend a great deal of my days fixing stuff that people didn't want so they "unplugged it" or bypassed it, then they realized they dug themselves into a hole.
Okay by me. I call it job security.
I don't look down on folks that do it, I just do what I can to help.

I respect the opinions of other people, but I often find that I don't get the same respect.
Not that I think you are crossing that line... I don't fit the mold that you want to put me in though.
No offense meant, and none taken.


If I get time, I might experiment, but as I mentioned before... I usually stay pretty busy.
If our original poster would try what you recommended I am sure he could answer this question for all of us.

[GTXgp]

Originally Posted by ewill3rd

If our original poster would try what you recommended I am sure he could answer this question for all of us.

At least there is something we both can agree on