Replacing stabilizer bar link

100 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-13-06, 12:12 AM

I am planning to replace the stabilizer bar links. Once, I tried to take one off, but I could not. I could take the nut off, but it seemed that the link is press fit or some sort into the strut and the stabilizer bar. It did not come off by just pulling by my hands. The FSM does not mention how to get it out from the strut (and the bar). Seems like once the nut is off, it should come off right away, according to the FSM...

Does anybody know know-hows and such? Do I have to use a tool similar to a tie-rod end remover to remove the link?

Thank you!

chuck1221 · #2 (**permalink**) 10-13-06, 09:46 PM

I bought a set for my 97 deville and put one in. It was a pain in the a**. the nuts came off easy and the top of the end link will just pount out with a couple hits of a hammer but the end in the sway bar took forever. I spent probably 4 - 5 hours on the one because of where it mounts to the sway bar. sorry but i don't really have any tips for you.

chuck

100 · #3 (**permalink**) 10-13-06, 11:38 PM

Thank you for the comments!

That's exactly what I am afraid to do. Maybe I should think about using a tie-end rod removal tool... By the way, are they supposed to rotate freely? When I was wiggling it, it was like just a solid link (frozen pivot?).

chuck1221 · #4 (**permalink**) 10-14-06, 09:40 AM

I don't think they are supposed to move freely. When I installed my new one it was more of a press fit. I couldn't even tell my link was bad till I removed the top half out of the mount. Then I noticed 1/2 or more of play within the two joints. luckily I picked the one joint that was toasted. I no longer have front end noise. As for removing where it mounts to the sway bar, I tried everything. Pounded on it, but the sway bar is rubber mounted so it didn't matter. Tried a puller, didn't work. I ended up cutting the bolt of the link off with a sawzall and drilling the bolt out starting with a smaller bit and working my way up to a bigger one. Eventually it spun the stuck bolt out. Installation of the new link is easy. just bolts in place, however you will have to have a torx (i think) to put in the bolt end to keep the bolt from spinning. I just used a impact wrench and it tighted them without having to do that. Just don't break the bolt off if you use one of them. I guess you have an idea on how to get it out if your tie rod tool doesn't work. Maybe you will get lucky and not have to go through what I did. Good luck.

chuck

jscgdunn · #5 (**permalink**) 09-30-08, 10:24 AM

It would be great if some of th epxerts would lend a bit of advice here...

100 · #6 (**permalink**) 09-30-08, 11:55 AM

Wow, it has been almost 2 years?

I successfully replaced the links. I used a ball joint separator tool to push the bolts out. I used this tool (http://www.toolsource.com/ball-joint...r-p-94185.html). Worked great.

jscgdunn · #7 (**permalink**) 09-30-08, 01:00 PM

Ok this is what I did:

1) Put front of car on jackstands
2) remove wheels
3) remove link nuts
4) drive out the pins at top of link. Note that these pins are tapered...they will only drive out one way.
5) use floor jack under lower ball joint to put soem weight on suspension
6) use pry bar top push down end of stab bar. Wedge under lower control arm. Now you should be able to swing hammer to drive out pin.
7) Hold heavy hammer (as an anvil) against opposite side of stab bar from where you are driving out pin. Otherwise stab absorbs hammer blow.
8) It take quite a few blows to loosen but then falls out

turbojimmy · #8 (**permalink**) 11-17-08, 05:59 PM

So what links did you use for replacement? I picked up one at the local auto parts store and it's the standard bushing-steel collar-bushing arrangement. What's on the car (that is now broken) is much beefier. Should I go with the GM part or the auto parts store part? The bolt is the same size, but what's in between is different.

TIA,
Jim

turbojimmy · #9 (**permalink**) 11-19-08, 08:02 PM

Here's the answer to the question.

Which would you use? On the left, generic auto parts store part. On the right, GM part.

Hint: I used the one on the right. It was exactly $1 more than the auto parts store part.

Jim

RobsDeville · #10 (**permalink**) 08-23-09, 10:07 PM

I just resurrected this post from the dead because I'd like to share my story: I heard clunking from the front of my car that was annoying as hell, and instead of doing what i always do and whining on this forum to ask for help i took it upon myself to jack of the old 94 concours and take a look under it myself. Both bar links were obviously toast but the one was worse than the other.

Those nuts are so freaking tight, i got the top loose with an impact wrench, and then ended up stripping the torx head trying to get the nut off. I had to dremel it and pop it off. easy.

Next was the seemingly impossible part thats connected to the sway bar. I cut the side closer to the bar link with a sawzall hoping i could just push it thru. But no luck. I had to use an easy-out to get that one off. After a test drive after installing the new part, I noticed the other side began clunking right away. I put off that fix until this weekend.

On the next side, the top one came off very easily as its supposed to. But i decided to take a the dremel tool to cut off the nut on the sway bar hoping it would be less painful than the sawzall/easy out combo. But i was wrong. without being able to see what i was doing it took me nearly 3.5 hours grinding it off.

The car rides great now!

Just a couple of minutes ago i Googled "stuck bar link" for the hell of it. The 3rd hit was this thread right here!

Im glad to see im not the only one. I dont know why i didnt come here before i wasted 2 weekends just thinking i was retarded trying to replace two parts that my Toyota loving friend says takes him "10 minutes per side"