New Fpr New Fuel Pump No Hot Restart

C170B · #1 (**permalink**) 09-09-06, 11:42 AM

Elusive

Classic Throw Parts at Problem still no solution.

1994 CAD CONCOURS 4.6L N* VIN ....RU225770.

Eng runs fine once it starts.. drive it 10 minutes try restart .. it will now take 2-3 HOURS .. This prob since early spring use to take 20 min for restart.
I am waiting for delivery of Fuel Pressure gage HARBOR TOOLSthey are very slow...

Assuming fuel pressure is OK . what else could be causing HOT NO RESTART?

I saw a RANGER post "tape Fuel gage to windshield & drive" as soon as I get the gage will do. Next I will put a sparkplug in my pocket and get a bystander involved. Iginition?

I did recently post about clicking sound and heard the throttle move. Recent SES light it went away. ISM seems to be a diff developing problem,Right?

A key to this problem is normal engine operating temperature. Engine drives fine , no sputtering no stalling.. Did WOT from 45 mph gets to 80 really fast
there is still a N* under my hood.

Think about it. will NOT RESTART at Normal Op temp. When COLD (2-3hrs) can start run 15 sec, Turn off, restarts immediately , repeat procedure restarts.

It has to be Fuel or IGN related.

At least it feels good to have new fuel pump at 170K.

Any suggestions or similar problems.

Regards

94RM · #2 (**permalink**) 09-09-06, 03:50 PM

Do you hear the fuel pump run for two or three seconds after turning the key
on without starting ? If so take the cap off the schrader valve and stick
something into the center and see if you get a spert of fuel, if not maybe
change the fuel filter (cheapest thing) .

If still no go, put a spark plug on one of the wires and ground the threaded
part and have someone try to start the car and observe if you have a good
spark.

Any codes in the pcm?

**Ranger** · #3 (**permalink**) 09-09-06, 05:26 PM

Hard hot starts is a sign of a bad FPR. I see you replaced it. Did you check to be sure the "O" ring is installed correctly and is not leaking? Your symptoms sure sound a lot like the FPR. A fuel pressure test when you have the no start will tell the tale on the pump.

C170B · #4 (**permalink**) 09-10-06, 10:11 PM

Ranger

Your observation on the small "O" ring installation is pertinent.

The "O" ring is packaged separate along w a metal spacer. Instructions remind to install the "O" ring.

An installation problem could really occur since the metal spacer does not just slide into position it is a press force fit. Working out of your toolbox in a driveway / shade tree DIY environment is not good for press fit. Something could get damaged. The "O" ring could be compressed too much and so on.

I had a machinst make tooling to press steet spacer to same depth as old FPR.

I will post results of fuel injection pressure test soon.

regards

C170B · #5 (**permalink**) 09-11-06, 06:13 PM

It appears not to be Fuel related.

I followed advice to attach Fuel Injection pressure test gage. It is 41 LBS on start up and 38 LBs driving.

Something electrical may be the culprit for NO HOT START.

After running engine for 45 minutes, we tried a HOT RESTART w one plug wire loose and a spare sparkplug grounded. Tried numerous times , NO SPARK.

The battery cranks the N* well but no spark is observed on test plug.
Big battery seems strong , both side terminals baking soda clean!

NO SPARK NO START

Another electrical mystery has joined and I wonder if there is a connection.
The turn signals will intermittently NOT operate, the hazard flashers will operate but NOT the turn signals. This seems improbable doesn't it.

Could something related to coil packs be stopping the electrical signal to
IGNITION.

Why would it have batt power to starter motor but not to the iginition?

I think I am 50% closer to a solution but I still don't have a clue.

Some how this repair is going to help other caddy owner/operators.

If you think you know please post; this 8-9 month old problem is now ripe.

regards

chevelle · #6 (**permalink**) 09-11-06, 07:06 PM

I would guess you have narrowed it down the the electronic ignition module under the coil pack. If it were crank sensors both would not likely fail and the engine will run OK with one. If an individual coil failed it would just take out those two cylinders. About the only thing left inbetween is the ignition module.

Should have been pretty easy to tie this problem down to fuel or spark sooner than this......????

If you think it is lack of fuel and need to know try a shot of ether (starting fluid) as a supplemental fuel source to see if it starts. If it might be flooded or rich try holding the throttle wide open while cranking. This disables the injectors (clear flood) during crank and if it starts immediately then it was rich.

Checking the fuel pressure is tryed and true for sure but there are other quick checks. In any case, it needs fuel and spark and air and it will run. Find out which one is missing and start there.