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the purge line was a little clogged up
but I put my compressor to it and blew all the nasty stuff out.
did you actually observe coolant flowing through the PURGE LINE? -
did you check/clean the HOLLOW BOLT that the purge line attaches to?
The second clog was down in the line that goes into the radiator
do you have a water-cooled alternator?
I haven't gotten the new cap
but the one present now will open up
but by the time it opens up the pressure is way beyond normal
you continually refer to the system being overpressured -
HOW did you come to that conclusion?
without a pressure gauge - it's impossible -
18psi doesn't sound like much -
but trying to squeeze a hot radiator hose - under full pressure -
you won't be able to compress it at all -
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Okay, today i did the block test like the video shows, no change in color of the testing fluid, i did it 3 times so im assuming no hg problem here.. however i checked the purge line that goes back to the rad and nothing but steam came out of it, every now and then a couple drops but not a steady flow of coolant.. could the water pump be the issue?? I didn't let it go up to the max on the temp but it was going after like 30 mins running in the driveway.*
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i checked the purge line that goes back to the rad
and nothing but steam came out of it
the PURGE LINE goes FROM the HOLLOW BOLT at the thermostat housing -
TO the nipple on the side of the SERGE TANK -
so - not sure what you are looking at -
I didn't let it go up to the max on the temp
but it was going after like 30 mins running in the driveway.*
idling in the driveway is just wasting gas -
there is no stress/strain on the engine idling -
you need to drive it - hard -
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I just got back from retesting it, blue liquid stays blue. Now i noticed on the tensor for the water pump, that it moves I'd say a 1/4 inch every spin I'd say.. and I can move it with a screwdriver as if it was not tense enough, also the main hose towards the pass side of radiator does not carry the hot water fast at all.. it can be burning hot out the wp housing then cold 2 inches towards the radiator. As if the water is not being pushed into the rad fast enough??!!
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i noticed on the tensor for the water pump, that it moves I'd say a 1/4 inch every spin I'd say.
it's possible the tensioner has lost a little strength -
it's also possible the belt has stretched some -
these conditions could allow the waterpump to slip a little -
another issue is a worn idler pulley -
with the engine off -
relieve some of the tension -
and spin/wiggle the idler pulley -
the pulley should spin smoothly -
and there should be absolutely no wiggle/side to side play -