Okay, i tried to look for a thread with this same problem but couldn't find it. Kinda mew here.
My deville 2000 is overheating and building up alot of pressure un the main rad hoses, and I mean alot, it already cracked one rad, I already checked for flow throughout the whole system and cleaned the hoses that were plugged with rust. I can pretty much blow through the whole system by mouth and flow seems good. I already took the thermostat out but it still does it. Heater core hoses take a little longer to get as hot as the rest, and also the rad doesn't get as got until I rev the engine a little bit, it gets hot evenly after that. However air and water flow goes right through it.. Water pump failing maybe??
Yeah I'm not leaving the water in there long. I'm putting coolant in it as soon as i get home, brought the car to work and it is still going 2 lines above the middle, I think its because of the water instead of coolant because before it rarely got past the middle. I think my problem has been solved, I hope. Again thanks to everyone who shared their knowledge on the issue, you guys saved me a good little bit of money. My lady and I are really grateful.
Although water has no cooling system corrosion protection it has very, very little to do with engine overheating if used at 100% concentration and proper system pressure.
Something else is not right with your cooling system operation, fan controls, or airflow through the radiator. Except in the middle of August at high noon in the middle of the Sahara Desert that temp gauge should sit within a needle's width or so of midpoint - 12 o'clock.
As Ranger posted, water alone moves a bit more heat than a 50/50 coolant mix - BUT water alone provides no corrosion protection (it accelerates corrosion) and no freeze protection.
Okay well i just replaced the water with coolant and it overheated lol. The fans kick in as temp rises, and when the ac is turned on.. the system only took I'd say 1 3/4 gallons, I'm hoping there's just air in the system. As im parked and sitting in the car it kinda sounds like its gulping.. idk if thats just air traveling out maybe?? Or maybe I still have that rust like stuff in the system??*
Wen you refill he system, run the engine at around 3000 RPM for a minute to purge most (if not all) the air. Then take it for a ride. If there is any air left in the system that should purge it. If you still over heat and hear gurgling (air in the heater core), it's time for a block test.
I put mine on the line running from the surge tank to the heater core. If you can't do it yourself have a shop do a flush and fill. A car running hot doesn't run long in my experience.
He's talking about cutting into the heater line at/near/under the coolant surge tank in order to install a flushing T. Several different (hose) sized kits available at parts stores. I do not recommend the practice for a Northstar cooling system.
IF you have thoroughly cleaned the system and had a bunch of hoses off, perhaps the best initial fill is through the upper radiator hose, carefully slipped back onto the water jacket discharge barb, then fill the surge tank, run the engine, let it cool, maintain the surge tank at the proper FULL COLD level, checking several times over the next week, filling to proper level if necessary.
The system holds about 3.2 gallons (12.5 quarts) from bone dry. There are no block drains, so it's hard to get the last 3 quarts out of the block. The heater circuit will also retain about a quart.
I will defer to the more experienced Caddy owners here as I have only owned mine 2 months, and just got the head gasket job done a couple of weeks back. My experience was right after that when starting car it seemed like it just wasn't getting flow, the engine temps were climbing but the top radiator hose wasn't hot, heater hoses weren't hot either. Cut line installed tee hooked up garden hose and it was kinda like I jump started the flow. Temp went from 200 to 140 and hoses started heating up etc. Might work for you prob not ha ha. Also had radiator out and flushed it when doing repair so I coulda had a massive air pocket to me it seemed like the water pump was cavitating. (not priming)
Also had radiator out and flushed it when doing repair so I coulda had a massive air pocket to me it seemed like the water pump was cavitating. (not priming)
That is exactly why we recommend a thorough check of the purge system flow - that is what removes residual air pockets and bubbles from the entire system after work, flush, or parts replacement. If the purge system is not working the water pump WILL air lock and cavitate. There should be no flow through the radiator until the rest of the system - engine and heater - warms to 188 degrees and the thermostat begins to open.
Here's a look at the temp range where these engines are supposed to run - 24/7/365 (the smaller sweep gauge tick marks correspond to the same ones here)...................
So the car was sitting for the whole weekend, but a friend of mine told me that a good way to get the air out is leaving the reservoir cap off and facing up a hill overnight, I tried it yesterday and this morning the level on the reservoir dropped dramatically, no leaks or anything like that so I'm assuming it worked?? Im driving it now and it's not leaving the half mark on the temperature.. I think that was the last of it, just air still trapped in the system..*
If that theory had anything to do with moving/removing trapped air in the system, the car would have to be parked at some precarious sideways angle with the surge tank above the rest of the entire system. Think about it.
Nose pointed uphill might allow air/gas to migrate to the upper radiator hose. (high point in that case)
My take is that the heater circuit or water crossover high point finally farted out the last of internal system "air", allowing "solid coolant" to the wp.
Lol, at that point I was willing to fill the reservoir standing on my head.. but all advise has been really helpful, learned a little more about my car and how some stuff works. Im kinda proud about that. Thanks again all of you.
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