Hey everbody...I HAVE to get this EGR replaced!!...I've given the car a complete tune up (plugs, wires, cap ,rotor,fuel filter) and although it runs better, it still wants to kick in and out of a "dirty" feel. sometimes it runs great and other times it's real dirty. Icant figure out how to get to the EGR without almost completely dimantling the entire fuel rail system and possibly the fuel injector "bowl". Is there any other way? or could it be something else perhaps? unfortunatley, the guy I bought it from (original owner) did absolutly NOITHING to this car...as I started to get into it I realized ALL the parts I was replacing were the originals....196,000 miles and the guy did nothing...my poor car...so ANY advice would be greatly appreciated! oh by the way...it's a 93 sixty special 4.9 if that helps at all.
I have a 90, and I'm guessing it's similar... I had to unbolt the throttle body and pull it out of the way, but once I did that, a simple combination wrench got the EGR valve bolts. Hope that helps...unless there's a difference on the 4.9.
thanks guys!! I think the distributor wrench is EXACTLY what I need...I knew they existed, just couldnt remember what they were called...now I just have to find one!lol...thanks again for your time!:thumbsup:
I made a custom tool, well, not really that "custom".
I grinded off a 13 mm socket for a 1/4 inch drive. Now the length (or height) of the socket is 14 mm. Total "height" with a 1/4 drive handle is 25 mm. If less than 25 mm, then it would get in without removing anything. I used a 6 point socket, but a 12 point socket would be better.
I am assuming you cleaned the throttle body and egr tubes aswell? Also how did you determine it to be the egr valve out of curiosity? I had a knock on acceleration and just changing the egr solenoid fixed it.
I am assuming you cleaned the throttle body and egr tubes aswell? Also how did you determine it to be the egr valve out of curiosity? I had a knock on acceleration and just changing the egr solenoid fixed it.
On my '94 4.9, I also changed the EGR solenoid. It decreased the knocking, but it was still there. After I installed a new EGR valve, the knocking was gone completely, and my fuel mileage increased by over 1 mpg.
I'm just trying to eliminate all of the tune up possibilities before I venture into the realm of fuel pressure regulators and pumps...mine runs "dirty"...kinda kicks in and out...sometimes it runs great and then pops into "dirty mode"...sometimes starts dirty and kicks into clean...cant really figure it out...any ideas on THAT front?!?....I guess EGR would be next step.
well...dirty like it needs a tune up. I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor...and it seems to run a little better with each replacement...it doesnt ping or knock at all....and it's not a constant dirty....just kicks in and out intermittently...no, I havent checked the fuel pressure yet...not sure how to do that...I have all the necessary tools to fix a car (for the most part) but nothing fancy like code scanners or meters so, any advice would be helpful
I LOVE my Volvo!! 300,000 miles and just as smooth and reliable as any new car (except maybe a Cadillac) I wouldnt give it up for anything (except maybe a new Caddy:bighead: ) Thanks again for your help guys!!
Look on the fuel rail. You'll see a shreader valve (just like a tire valve). Remove the cap, screw on a fuel pressure guage and get a pressure reading. I think the 4.9 should be about 45 psi if I remember correctly. It is best to have one with a long line on it so it can be taped to the windshield and watched as you drive when the problem presents itself.
WOW!cool!...ok, so the pressure should stay at 45(ish)psi...and if it drops at the same time it runs dirty then it's and FPR right? Is it common for them to go bad? granted i have almost 200,00 mi. so anything at this point I assume is possible..LOL
NO! To check the FPR just pull the vacum hose off of it while it is running. If fuel leaks out of the nipple, it is bad.
Fuel pressure should stay relatively steady. There will be some fluctuation with manifold vacuum but if it drops way down, and the FPR is good, then it is likely a failing fuel pump.
ahhh haaa...now I understand!!! you two have been such a HUGE help!! Thanks again!! and YES, from what I can see EVERYTHING is still original...which has made it difficult to diagnose this ...for me anyway.
I'll give it all a shot tomarrow and keep you posted...thanks again!:thumbsup:
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