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2K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  Ranger 
#1 ·
I was wondering if it's a good solid car and what to look for in buying one? The reason I want a 96 is because it was the last year of the back tire being halfway hidden and the first year with the Northstar and also leaning more towards the Concours because of the added horsepower. Were their problems with the first year Northstars and does anybody know all the colors that came out that year without the ragtop & besides the horsepower what is the deference between the Concours and the Base Deville?
 
#2 ·
Caddi,

Well, there's a few really important things to look through.

At 50K+ watch for:

1.) Head gasket/s failure. Any aluminum motor will need extra care of the cooling system, if this hasn't been done on the car you're looking to buy add $4500 to do the repair. This is not typically a DIY repair b/c the cradle has to be pulled out of the body... tough job in your home shop! My '96 has 114K and is still ok, but when it goes, it becomes scrap.

2.) The A/C system probably needs work - usually the compressor goes. This is a $700 to $1400 job depending on how you go about fixing the problem.

3.) The electric seat/heater functions may be bad. These are VERY expensive seats to replace/fix. The replacement cost is $2400. To fix the heater element is pricy as well.

4.) Check when the water pump/cooling system was gone through. This can be pricy if you don't DIY.

5.) The electronic dashes had some problems, make sure everything works. Including the system diagnostics.

6.) Make sure the fan works for the cabin A/C/heat. These go out on a regular basis. So much so that my dealer had several in stock at any one time for replacement. Very expensive job - $1100 b/c they have to lower the motor to get to the fan! AND the DIY is nuts, you have to cut the firewall to replace the fan.

7.) See if the recall has been done for the stainless steel fuel rail. If it hasn't, well, do it but be prepared for runability issues to come up. Mine was done 6 mo. ago and still doesn't run like before, even w/ all the tune-up parts replaced.

8.) Note oil leaks - the N* has issues with the half case design. It may leak, this is considered "normal" by Caddy!

9.) Be sure to watch oil consumption carefully - I go through 1 qt./1000 miles or so even with the WOT (Wide Open Throttle) procedure at onramps and the like.

10.) Have the dealer check the engine mounts - they tend to tear and need replacement.

Well, these are the top 10 from my experience...

Buyer Beware!!! These cars are expensive to repair! If I had to do it over again I'd buy at 20K and dump it at 50K. You'll end up spending about the same $$$ with FAR less frustration!

Good luck!
 
#3 ·
1996deVille said:
6.) Make sure the fan works for the cabin A/C/heat. These go out on a regular basis. So much so that my dealer had several in stock at any one time for replacement. Very expensive job - $1100 b/c they have to lower the motor to get to the fan! AND the DIY is nuts, you have to cut the firewall to replace the fan.
I just did mine. $225 for the blower from gmpartsdirect. The motor does not have to be lowered, just remove the dog bones and rock the engine forward an inch or two (actually I did it without rocking the engine). I didn't have to cut anything to remove or reinstall.
 
#4 ·
Ranger is correct, you can rock the motor forward. Just be aware of what you are pushing against and what is not rocking forward as easily as it should.

Watch the A/C lines, move them too much and you just bought yourself another expensive problem - I tried to move mine and didn't like the way the exhaust manifolds had to move either. You'll have to take off the coil pack/s and be very aware of the spark plugs and wires on the rear edge of the motor, as well.

I did this job before I knew of this site - there are some excellent resources here, take full advantage as the need arises!

Much success!
 
#7 ·
Upstate,

I wish I'd found this site BEFORE I bought my '96. Mine was purchased in 2001 - right at the 5th year of service.

I got it with 68K. The first problem was the A/C, that cost me $1400 - I don't have the tools to do this... this went bad at 72K.

The second concern was the seat heater. Stopped working at 78K, caddy said they could replace the seats for $2400. No, I didn't bite... I may go after this later in the summer?

The next was the cabin fan at 88K. This happened right in the middle of summer in Yellowstone N.P. It was well over 90 degrees - this one made me mad!!! I did the work - $225 for the fan and worked through a stupid design flaw whereby one rocks the motor forward or cuts the firewall, sigh...

The next was standard maint. The water pump and hoses, gotta get a special tool, however, get used to that with this car! My cost was cheap compared to the dealer, they wanted $1200 for the whole job!!! Did this at 112K.

Plugs and wires - $150 or so... did this at 112K, as well.

The rear brakes, cheap... but, you need to rent a special tool, sigh...

The other stuff, like the dash - look closely at the sealed area around the top of the unit, you can tell if it has been messed with. They either work, or they don't. Mine was fine, but a lot of people told me they had issues with this.

The big issue is the head gasket - you buy that problem and it'll cost you BIG, $4500 Big!!! This is a crap shoot... the person trading that car MIGHT have taken care of it!!!??? BUYER BEWARE!!!

All in all, I'd do it much differently in 20/20 hindsight. I'd have bought at 20K and turned it right before 50K. Buy at two years and trade before five. If I add all of what I've done plus the $14600 I paid for the car I could've bought newer, traded in, and start all over again with far less problems.

So, '97 through '99 is getting a bit old. I'd try for an '03 with 20K, or so, and trade it before you have to buy tires.

My experience and 2 cents worth... your mileage may vary!

Good luck!
 
#10 ·
"7.) See if the recall has been done for the stainless steel fuel rail. If it hasn't, well, do it but be prepared for runability issues to come up. Mine was done 6 mo. ago and still doesn't run like before, even w/ all the tune-up parts replaced."



Has anyone found out why this is and if Cadillac is doing anything to fix it, as I just had mine fixed for the recall and now it don't start like it did, and if you read the remedy for the replacement it tells the dealer that if not very careful and use exaclty what is called for that they could damage the FPR, I also wonder if they could damage the injectors doing this. But as I am not a wrencher I would not know, any thoughts from those wiser then I.
 
#11 ·
I has been discussed before and is well known that after a rail change, the plug wires tend to go bad. Apparently, moving old wires around will cause a wire or two to break down and misfire. A new set of OEM wires will usually solve any problems. Been there, done that.
 
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