ok sort of a long story here first went while i was driving uphill a few days ago the car started to stall out on me and make aloud noise so i pulled over, cut the car off and it never cut back on since then. as i was trying to restart the car it turned over so i could here a clicking noise but then thats it got it towed to a gas station( which i was afraid of) and mechanic said that it wasnt the alternator and there was no oil on the dip stick and the engine locked up I needed a new engine (smh) I called back again and in a different convo he said that he got it to start and that it made a loud noise like the rod was going to shoot through the head( dont know what that means in the slightest way)i finally got her towed to my house and i tried to start her up to hear this noise. but when i turned the key i got the clicking first, second time around i got nothing at all. but a clicking sound from inside of the car like a seat motor maybe not sure what it is but there is no sound coming from the engine at all please tell me my car is not dead.
I think that 7 lines of gibberish sounds like the engine was run low on oil and the engine seized. If the car is on fairly level ground, where is the oil level on the dipstick - right now ???
<===== ADD XXXXXXXXXXXXX OPERATING RANGE =========== - Where is the oil on those X's ???
If you have a charged battery, first study the sticky post just above this thread - "How to pull codes (DTC's)" and then use the proper year group procedures to get any stored diagnostic codes from your car's built-in scanner. Write them down and whether each is Current or History, then return to the sticky to open the URL link to code definitions for OBD-II. decipher all your found codes and post it all here in this thread.
I think that 7 lines of gibberish sounds like the engine was run low on oil and the engine seized. If the car is on fairly level ground, where is the oil level on the dipstick - right now ???
<===== ADD XXXXXXXXXXXXX OPERATING RANGE =========== - Where is the oil on those X's ???
If you have a charged battery, first study the sticky post just above this thread - "How to pull codes (DTC's)" and then use the proper year group procedures to get any stored diagnostic codes from your car's built-in scanner. Write them down and whether each is Current or History, then return to the sticky to open the URL link to code definitions for OBD-II. decipher all your found codes and post it all here in this thread.
If its a toasted engine is there any saving it maybe I stopped driving it before the final damage was done..and two weeks ago I put two quarts of oil in there but I also have been driving alot on the highway for the past two weeks as well
We can't diagnose loud knocks and bangs on the Internet - unfortunately that's a hands-on experienced local mechanic's job.
Your engine condition doesn't sound very good from my seat .................. I don't know your car maintenance habits, but having to pour in two quarts of oil at one time doesn't sound good, either.
As far as the recent no-start, that's the reason for the trouble code request - onboard diagnostics of monitored systems.
We can't diagnose loud knocks and bangs on the Internet - unfortunately that's a hands-on experienced local mechanic's job.
Your engine condition doesn't sound very good from my seat .................. I don't know your car maintenance habits, but having to pour in two quarts of oil at one time doesn't sound good, either.
As far as the recent no-start, that's the reason for the trouble code request - onboard diagnostics of monitored systems.
hopefully your engine didnt die. ill tell ya what, its a hell of a hassle finding a decent used motor. i did that to my DeVille....good ol neglect can run your pockets into debt. but to be honest, it sounds like you may have to rip out that engine and get another one. If you do get another one because that is the path you may go down, have a machanic replace the gaskets on the new/used motor and change out spark plugs, and sensors. I should have did that when I had the chance.
He may not need a new motor. If the rotating assembly is still good, he could get away with new bearings, a cylinder wall clean up if need be, and a line hone if need be. An OEM rebuild would be better in the long run than finding a junk yard donor motor.
got her towed to my house and i tried to start her up to hear this noise. but when i turned the key i got the clicking first, second time around i got nothing at all.
Remember, the oil drops off the end of the dipstick at 2 qts low, which means 5.5 qts still left in the pan. Even if you where 4 qts low you'd still have 3.5 left. Plenty enough to run the engine without damaging it.
I'd check the battery (and oil) or swap in a known good one before giving this motor it's last rights.
Remember, the oil drops off the end of the dipstick at 2 qts low, which means 5.5 qts still left in the pan. Even if you where 4 qts low you'd still have 3.5 left. Plenty enough to run the engine without damaging it.
I'd check the battery (and oil) or swap in a known good one before giving this motor it's last rights.
But if he did lock his motor up, I would advise against cranking it any more. Maybe try rotating it by hand but that's about it. At this point I would be trying to cause as little more damage as possible.
If he did lock it up due to lack of oil I would think it is too late to save it. I just don't see that as being the case. I hope for his sake I am right.
Tremendous help if you could describe the sound, did it sound like rocks in a can, premature detonation, internal backfire, did the dash read or throw a light I'm all for charades but give us a little more
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