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No brake fluid, 97 DeVille

10K views 90 replies 10 participants last post by  AlcoholicProgram 
#1 ·
Ran out of brake fluid today, car is now parked outside with the parking brake on. I noticed this whenever I tried to go to the store and go to the stop sign and the breaks only worked whenever pushed all the way down. Message came on dash "Check fluid level", I'm going to get some brake fluid tomorrow and put some in, my question is this. I've heard that things can go wrong when you run out of brake fluid and I've heard that just putting new fluid in can fix it. So, when I put the fluid in what all should I do once I put it in, and what could go wrong?
 
#8 ·
Quick question. Do I have to bleed the brakes, or can I pour some in and get to NAPA. I would like to do as much mechanical stuff done by a mechanic rather than me. As I said it is able to stop but only when pushed all the way down, so I assume there's a bit still in there, if I put some in, maybe a quarter in the reservoir, will I be able to use my brakes and get to NAPA?
 
#10 ·
Brakes are basicly a closed hydraulic system.. no fluid means air is filling the lines and its a total failure... losing all your fluid then driving without full fluid and bleeding them out is a risk I wouldn't take because you are just running with scissors at that point... you might not trip but if you do you risk yourself and who or whatever you run over in the out of control process
 
#14 ·
Bleeding brakes is simple. It does require two people though. One to push the pedal and one to crank open the bleeder valve. There are methods where one person can do it but it is a lot easier to just have two. It uses a standard I think 3/8 or 10mm wrench (probably 10mm) but do yourself a favor and get a bleeder wrench. They make the job a lot easier as they are angled correctly. Get 2 LARGE bottles of brake fluid. You will probably be able to return one though. Bleed them until the fluid is clear (new). Start with the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. You should remove the wheel on each corner when you bleed it, but you can do it without removing the wheels.
 
#16 ·
If you have a leak it should be obvious. You should see brake fluid at one of the 4 brake calipers or one of the lines or connections.


Do you know how to bleed brakes?


Don't attempt to drive it.
Went to NAPA today and they told me that to pour some in and find the leak, I had them take a look at it and they said I'll need to replace my brake lines before I do anything. I asked them about bleeding the brakes and putting new fluid in and they told me it would just all leak out within the day. (Of course I was skeptical of it at first but it does make sense)
My father is going to take a look at it and see where we should go from there, maybe if I can find the problem I'll post up a photo or so for some recommendations on stopping it. We may just end up taking it in and having the lines replaced.
 
#19 ·
I discovered where the brake fluid is leaking, I went ahead and cancelled my appointment at the mechanic. If I post some photos maybe someone can help me identify what needs to be done to fix it? It seems it is leaking out underneath the engine, a little bit closer towards the cabin.
 
#21 ·
If you have a leak due to a rotted line, just do them all at once. I promise, it's worth it. When one blows, the others are right behind it, ALWAYS. Waiting for them to blow one by one is not worth the risk nor the headache.
Sounds pricey, yet worth it.
Where can I get all the brake lines at? Seems like it would be cheaper to buy them all together, rather than separately..
 
#28 ·
Gonna go take a look at it and see what I can find.

If I were to replace the hoses on my own (with some help from a friend) how hard is it to do so?
What all needs to be done when replacing them?

EDIT: I just looked near the master cylinder and there is some hose sticking out from the engine with a metal cap(?) on it and it is just sitting there. Not sure what this has to do with or if I should even be concerned about this.
 
#33 ·
For the most part it's grunt work, take off and replace. few tools needed to make life a lot easier. Line wrenches, tubing bender(s) and double flare tools.
For a newb I would piece line(s) together with unions to get lentgh you need. Sometimes it is easier also. As a newb you should avoid making new flares as they can be difficult.
Bending lines: be prepared to kink a few until you get the hang of it. The cheaper the bender the crappier the bends usually. Follow the factory layout and use the clips as others have said.
 
#34 ·
There's a first time for everything. You know your capabilities and limitations - only you can answer that question. It's not difficult, but time and patience consuming - this especially depends on what kind of condition the rest of the underbody is. Hardest part for a beginner is getting decent flares from the cheap rental flare kits. You can do it, but you'll probably ruin a few first.
 
#35 ·
Alright, I think I'm going to attempt it. Now here the comes the main question that will truly decide on whether or not I do it. Does the entire vehicle need to be jacked up in the air, or can I just jack each tire as I move throughout the assembly?

Also, does anyone have a diagram of the line assembly?
 
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