Ok
So I bypassed the heater core and everything seems fine
AC seems colder, hmmmm???
The coolant got up to 235* tho but I think the driver side cooling fan went out again bc it took about 30minutes to creep up there and it was up and down (228*/235*) with stop n go traffic
Checked coolant level about an hour after I got to work , had a lil pressure still when i took off the cap and was still full so I'm guessing no serious leak
If one fan runs when you fool with the wires, what makes you think new fans will behave any differently ?? It's time for a thorough wiring, connector, and relay check BEFORE spending $200 or so on new fans/motors.
Here's your wiring diagram. Right click it, save as, and save it to a temp file or flash drive, zoom it out and print it. (Use a real computer - not some dinky smart phone app - can you even print from a cell phone ?)
And yes u can print from most any iOS or Android phone thru wifi or Bluetooth if the device/printer has those options, most do
With my iPhone, I can actually save the photo and zoom, minimize, cut, crop, enhance, Print on your Unlocked Printer if its in range etc . And that's with the iPhones basic features... No apps
Good to know ............. My OLD (ancient) Nokia makes/receives calls and that's about it. Karen and I together use less than 15 minutes a month of cell time.............. I actually use a bit more in the STS OnStar system - 16 minutes last month.
--------------------------------- do I replace the plug (how) or do I replace the whole passenger fan
well - you have diagnosed the problem as a bad plug -
so I would plan on just replacing the burned up plug -
HOW?
couple choices -
go to the boneyard - locate a similar car - cut off the electrical plug you need -
cut off your screwed up plug - splice in the other good used plug -
OR -
go to rockauto.com - put in your car information -
go down the parts list to - and CLICK on Electrical-Connector
go down Electrical-connector parts list to - and CLICK on Radiator Fan Motor Connector
choose the one that looks like the one you need -
--------------------
you need to solder the wires - and cover them with shrink-tubing -
I noticed the passenger one is consumed by rust and the fan wobbles as it gets up to speed
The other one took most of the impact from that accident I was in last year... Surprised it still worked and still to this day but ill feel more comfortable retiring the two and installing new plugs and fans
They've done there job long enough and I can't risk anymore damage to my engine
When i checked for codes I noticed i had the PCM P1258 code (protection mode active) which i believe is the Camel Mode ... and it did get me down the street and across the intersection at 15/20mph after the heater core blew out
I can sure attest to its ability to keep the car moving... ... tho, I didn't drive it more than a mile...
Anyways
I wanna thank y'all for the help and direction on fixing the Super Lac Deville
I was feeling like my best friend was about to die in the hospital and y'all gave me hope with each response
The plug is burnt because the blower is drawing too much resistance and over heating the plug. Bottom line is the blower is on it's way out. I'd replace both the blower and the plug. Otherwise you'll have to replace the plug again later when the blower finally goes. Pay me now or pay me later, your choice.
Ive been messing with my fans trying to get them to work,
finally jus cut the plugs from the LH Passenger Fan and the burnt plug lead and added my own connectors
Started the car and hit the AC on... both Fans came on low but after a few minutes they shut off and I got the "low refrigerant- AC off" on the IC ( AC Refrigerant Is Not Low... I know this for a Fact )
I already knew the AC wasn't working because the compressor clutch didn't engage with AC on, which I normally can hear/feel in the car
Ive been researching CF and found 2 threads with Identical Problems but im a lil unsure of the solution to the issue
So ive checked the Fuses and don't see any bad ones, I cleaned them before reinserting them hoping it was jus a bad connector... Nothing Changed
Ive looked at the AC relay under the hood fuse block, but I don't hear the click with the ac on or off and the connector ends look fine... im leaning on that may be the AC problem but I don't know Relay's so im jus guessing on that
One thing that struck me was Post#10 in the 2nd link (above) that stated
" Under normal conditions both fans run in slow speed because they are wired in series if one fan open circuits, neither fan will run. "
So here, im thinking the RH Passenger fan is the Problem because that is the one that, if I played with the wire (few days ago), both fans came on... Well, maybe not???
When I got home a lil bit ago my temp was at 226*/228* so I popped the hood to check the fans and the RH Passenger fan was on high... the LH Driver side was Dead Stop.
So now im thinking the LH Driver Side Fan... ???
At this point im confused, but im leaning to Replacing the fans and AC relay...
Any other Ideas and/or suggestions for me to look at PLEASE !!!!
the fans are automatic - and there are two conditions that make them run -
if you turn the AC on - AND IT WORKS -
BOTH fans will run at slow speed -
in your case - you got the "low refrigerant- AC off" message -
and it shut down the AC system - so - the fans also shut down -
if you check for codes - there should be one for "low refrigerant"
and the compressor will never run until this code is cleared -
AC Refrigerant Is Not Low... I know this for a Fact
and just HOW do you know this -
the ONLY way to be sure - is to connect a set of gauges -
what are the HIGH and LOW pressure readings?
-----------------
the other condition that causes the fans to run is coolant temp -
the fans start around 226 - and go to high around 235 -
I know the Refrigerant isn't low bc I have checked with the AC guage that comes with the AC refill can
It shows in the redline, somewhat below where it was last year when we checked it then and got the AC working again
Maybe I'm not checking right ???, but I hooked it up like the guy at Advance showed me
The AC has always worked fine until the fans started with this BS...
Additionally , "low refrigerant-AC off" was the IC message when I bought the car, eventually, that's how we discovered the fans weren't properly connected in the first place... The previous owner Hot Wired the fans to the ignition, which (as i understood it) pretty much bipassed the AC Compressor
When we hooked the fans up properly, the AC Compressor came on and the AC blew cold
Aside of that, only the RH Passenger fan is coming on with the AC Off, when the temps call for it
My thinking is that the LH Driver side is "Open Circuits" when the AC is turned on, therefore shutting down the fans and the AC, but maybe it's the RH fan???
I jus know that fault or open circuit in the fans will cause the AC to not come on and set the Low Refrigerent code, bc that's how it was when I bought the car... I know that doesn't sound right but that's what it does.
BUT, Is there some other way to connect the AC Refill guage/can the Advance Autopart guy doesn't know??? I jus don't see how it can be low if the guage is in the red line????
Where are the AC sensors or any other relays I should check????
Those gauges that come with the cans are useless. You really need a good "set" of A/C gauges. Did you check it with the engine running and the A/C on? If not, all you checked was static pressure which will almost always be in the red unless the system is completely empty. I refer back to post #34.
so I jus checked with the ac and engine on and it was in the red still, and when I pulled the trigger for a few seconds the refrigerant back fired out of the can in a small POOF... I tried to upload an image but cf wont let me no matter how small I make it...
If it is over pressurized the compressor will shut down as well, but that is not what your DIC message is showing. At this point I don't know if you are over or under pressurized. You need to take it to a qualified A/C tech.
If it is over pressurized the compressor will shut down as well, but that is not what your DIC message is showing. At this point I don't know if you are over or under pressurized. You need to take it to a qualified A/C tech.
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