Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off
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1985-1992 Fleetwood, 1993 Sixty Special, All FWD Forum Discussion, Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Chevron 15w/40 / 2 Gallons $24 Last Oil Change Was Feb 17th 2013 at 186,008 Miles Today 7/01/13 The OLM ...
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    Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off



    Chevron 15w/40 / 2 Gallons $24

    Last Oil Change Was Feb 17th 2013 at 186,008 Miles

    Today 7/01/13 The OLM just hit 0 at 190,072 Miles

    That’s 4,064 miles / 4 months, 12 days

    Is that pretty good, same or average compared to 10w/30 oil for my 98 Deville???

    Chevron 15w/40 https://www.google.com/#q=Walmart+Ch...w=1440&bih=698

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    I use 5w30 mobile1 ever since I resealed the engine and studded block and did HG's, installed all new timing chains. This was 4500 miles ago. OLM says 63% and its been topped off once with a quart at 3500 miles.

    Edit: I'm so used to using 5w30 in customers cars I mistakingly typed it when I in fact use 10w30
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    Re: Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off

    Quote Originally Posted by Caddy-EaRL View Post
    I use 5w30 mobile1 ever since I resealed the engine and studded block and did HG's, installed all new timing chains. This was 4500 miles ago. OLM says 63% and its been topped off once with a quart at 3500 miles.
    LOL !!! I think you have an advantage with the refurbished engine... but im thinking that the thicker oil (15w/40) definitely has an affect on my OLM???

    I was thinking 4,000+ miles on the OLM was pretty good for my "Handicapped" Super Lac...LoL

    But, Next oil change I'ma run the recommended 10w/30 and compare those results

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    The OLM is calibrated to the oil specified in your owners manual. It has no way of telling what viscosity you're using, or weather the oil is synthetic or not (.....or what brand, or who endorses it, or what special abilities the bottle says it has...). The OLM system does not sample the oil in any way, shape, or form. These engines don't even have an oil temp or oil pressure sensor.

    Oil consumption has absolutely nothing to do with the OLM. Heavier oil MAY be consumed SLIGHTLY slower, and MAY leak slower, only because it's thicker.

    In any case, 15W-40 is the WRONG OIL for any Northstar, under any driving conditions, in any climate.
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    Re: Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off

    I just changed the oil my deville according to olm and it was at 5% . 7500 miles and five months. It only sees highway miles and next to none is stop and go traffic. No commute just pleasure . Mainly to the same place twice a week that is a 100 mile round trip all highway 60-70 MPH.

    When my mom had the car it barely got to 3000 miles becuse she only drove 16 miles or so a week and all short trips which did not let the car get warmed up

    I alway use 10-30 Moble 5000 .
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    Re: Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off

    Quote Originally Posted by SUPER LAC DEVILLE View Post


    Chevron 15w/40 / 2 Gallons $24

    Last Oil Change Was Feb 17th 2013 at 186,008 Miles

    Today 7/01/13 The OLM just hit 0 at 190,072 Miles

    That’s 4,064 miles / 4 months, 12 days

    Is that pretty good, same or average compared to 10w/30 oil for my 98 Deville???

    Chevron 15w/40 https://www.google.com/#q=Walmart+Ch...w=1440&bih=698
    -------------------------------
    about the only way I can think of
    for the OLM to hit 0% in 4000 miles -
    is all of your driving is short trips -
    or stop-n-go rush hour type driving -
    or if the engine was overheated -

    if you have thoughts of fixing the failed head gaskets -
    and continuing to use the same engine in the future -

    I STRONGLY recommend using the proper 10w30 oil -
    you COULD be starving the engine of oil at start-up using thicker oil -
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    Re: Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off

    Quote Originally Posted by basscatt View Post
    -------------------------------
    about the only way I can think of
    for the OLM to hit 0% in 4000 miles -
    is if the engine was overheated -

    if you have thoughts of fixing the failed head gaskets -
    and continuing to use the same engine in the future -

    I STRONGLY recommend using the proper 10w30 oil -
    you COULD be starving the engine of oil at start-up using thicker oil -

    I was looking for the same brand Chevron Delo 10w/30 but I cant find any in my area...

    the closest I found was Chevron Delo 400 Synthetic 5W40... which is too thin, right???

    .................................................. ..............

    Id like to use the same Chevron stuff but if I cant find it ill go to the cheapest 10w/30 I can find...

    I really only drive about 20/25 miles a day for work and groceries. Half and half highway and city but the stop and go isn't really much since I use roads with light traffic and traffic lights

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    5W-40 is too thin al low temperatures, AND too thick at high temperatures.

    Don't worry about brand. Pick a bottle of 10W-30 that's a color you like, or knock all the 10W-30 bottles on the floor, and buy the ones pointing at you.

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    Re: Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off

    Quote Originally Posted by SUPER LAC DEVILLE View Post
    but im thinking that the thicker oil (15w/40) definitely has an affect on my OLM???
    Your thinking is flawed. Neither the OLM nor the engine knows what weight, brand or type of oil you have in the engine. The OLM is based on an algorithm that uses RPM, and a host of sensors to decrement the remaining oil life based on the rate at which the ZDDP is depleted. I have posted it several times before. If you can't find it, I can repost it.
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    Re: Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger View Post
    Your thinking is flawed. Neither the OLM nor the engine knows what weight, brand or type of oil you have in the engine. The OLM is based on an algorithm that uses RPM, and a host of sensors to decrement the remaining oil life based on the rate at which the ZDDP is depleted. I have posted it several times before. If you can't find it, I can repost it.
    a link will be cool !

    thanks

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    Re: Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off

    I'll just post it again. It was written by a GM Powertrain engineer that used to post here.


    One thing I can touch on and clear up.....the GM oil life monitor operation and my statement that ZDP (or ZDDP as you tend to call it here...most of the API literature just sticks to ZDP so I tend to use that) depletion is the basis for oil deterioration.

    My spelling is poor but ZDP stands for zinc dialkyldithiophosphate which , as it sounds, is an anti-wear compound comprised of zinc and phosphorus.

    ZDP is dispersed in the oil so as to be at a potential wear site if a surface asperity happens to break thru the oil film thickness causing the dreaded metal-to-metal contact. A molecule of ZDP must be present at that moment to prevent microwelding at the contact site which will cause material transfer, scuffing, scoring, wear and catostrophic failure. The concentration of ZDP in the oil will determine if there is ZDP present to work it's magic. The greater the concentration...the more likely a molecule of ZDP will be there...and vice versa.

    By nature, ZDP is sacrifical. As ZDP is "used up" at a wear site to prevent micorwelding the concentration of ZDP decreases.... So...if you measure the ZDP concentration in engine oil in a running engine it will decrease at linear rate based on engine revolutions. Any given engine has a certain number of high potential wear areas where metal-to-metal contact could occur due to reduced film thickness and/or surface asperities....areas such as rubbing element cam followers, distributor gears, rocker arm pivots, push rod tips, etc...... The more of these areas the more ZDP depletion. The more often these features come in contact the greater the ZDP depletion. That is why, generally speaking, ZDP concentration in the oil, for any given engine, will decrease at a fairly linear rate when plotted versus cummulative engine revolutions. The more times it turns the more contact the more chance for wear the greater the depletion. This is as much of a fact as I could quote ever and is really not speculation or anything. It is proven beyond a shadow of a doubt in many studies. That is why it is ONE of the basis for determining oil life remaining and why it is THE basic premis of the GM oil life algorithm. It is only ONE of the things that determines oil life...but it is the one thing that can be tied to engine operation in a linear fashion and estimated very accurately by accumulating engine revolutions via a counter.

    The GM engine oil life monitor counts engine revolutions and accumulates the number for the basis of the oil life calculation. It then adds deterioration factors for operating temperature, start up temperature, soak times, ambient, coolant temperature, etc... There are a LOT of factors that "adjust" or affect the slope of the deterioration but the fundamental deterioration is traced back to the ZDP depletion that is inescapable with engine revolutions. The specific rate of ZDP depletion is readily measurable for any given engine so that is the fundamental item that is first calibrated for the oil life algorithm to tailor it specifically to that engine.

    You would obviously like to get the oil out of the engine before the ZDP concentration gets so low that it is ineffective at being at the right place at the right time and preventing engine wear so that becomes the long term limit on oil life for that application.

    The other things that determine oil life such a acid build up, oxidation, petane insuluables such as silicon from dust/dirt, carbon or soot build up from the EGR in blowby, water contamination, fuel contamination, etc.... are all modeled by the multipliers or deterioration factors that "adjust" the immediate slope of the line defined by the engine revolution counter as those items can be modeled in other ways and accounted for in the immediate slope of the ZDP depletion line.

    The algorithm was developed over the course of many years by several lubrication experts at GM Fuels and Lubes, spearheaded by Doctor Shirley Schwartz who holds the patents (with GM) for the algorithm and the oil life montitor. I had the luck of working directly with Dr. Schwartz when the idea of the oil life monitor first progressed from the theoretical/lab stage to real world testing/development/validation. There were fleets of cars operated under all conditions that deteriorate the oil life for any and every reason and , thru oil sampling and detailed analysis of the oil condition, the algorithm was developed, fine tuned and validated to be the most accurate way invented yet to recommend an oil change interval by. As just one example, I have seen cars driven side-by-side on trips, one towing a trailer and one not, for instance, to prove the effectiveness of the oil life monitor in deteriorating the oil at a faster rate just because of the higher load, higher average RPM, higher temps, etc...and it works flawlessly.

    The oil life monitor is so effective because: it is customized for that specific vehicle/engine, it takes everything into account that deteriorates the oil, it is ALWAYS working so as to take into account THAT INDIVIDUALS driving schedule, and it tailors the oil change to that schedule and predicts, on an ongoing basis, the oil life remaining so that that specific individual can plan an oil change accordingly. No other system can do this that effectively.

    One thing is that I know personally from years of testing and thousands of oil analysis that the oil life algorithm works. There is simply no argument to the contrary. If you don't believe me, fine, but, trust me, it works. It is accurate because it has been calibrated for each specific engine it is installed on and there is considerable testing and validation of the oil life monitor on that specific application. NOt something that oil companies or Amsoil do. They generalize....the oil life monitor is very specific for that application.

    Oil condition sensors in some BMW and Mercedes products are useful, also. They have their limitations, though, as they can be blind to some contaminates and can, themselves, be contaminated by certain markers or constituents of certain engine oils. Oil condition sensors can only react to the specific oil at that moment and they add complexity, cost and another potential item to fail. One other beauty of the GM oil life monitor is that it is all software and does not add any mechanical complexity, mass, wiring or potential failure mechanism.

    There is considerable safety factor in the GM oil life monitor. Typically, I would say, there is a 2:1 safety factor in the slope of the ZDP depletion curve....in other words, zero percent oil life per the ZDP depletion is not zero ZDP but twice the concentration of ZDP considered critical for THAT engine to operate under all conditions reliably with no wear. This is always a subject of discussion as to just how low do you want the ZDP to get before the oil is "worn out" if this is the deciding factor for oil life. We would tend to be on the conservative side. If the oil life is counting down on a slope that would recommend a 10K change interval then there is probably 20K oil life before the ZDP is catostrophically depleted....not that you would want to go there...but reason why many people are successful in running those change intervals.

    Please...NOT ALL ENGINES ARE THE SAME. The example above is an excellent practical justification of why you would want to add EOS and change the 15W40 Delvac in the muscle car at 3000 miles max and yet can run the Northstar to 12500 easily on conventional oil. You must treat each engine and situation differently and what applies to one does not retroactively apply to others. This is where Amsoil falls short in my book by proposing long change intervals in most everything if you use their oil. It just doesn't work that way. You can run the Amsoil to 12500 with no concerns whatsoever in the late model Northstar because even the oil life monitor tells you that for conventional oil off the shelf. Would I do that to the 502 in my 66 Chevelle...NO WAY. Amsoil says I can though. Wrong.


    There are entire SAE papers written on the GM oil life monitor and one could write a book on it so it is hard to touch on all aspects of it in a single post. Hopefully we hit the high spots. Realize that a GREAT deal of time, work and energy went into developing the oil life monitor and it has received acclaim from engineering organizations, petroleum organizations, environmental groups all across the board. It is not some widget invented in a week and tacked onto the car.
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    Thanks for the responses

    Ima run and stick with the 10w30 in a couple days

    I guess I was jus trying to beat the whole 3,000 mile oil change deal, and the OLM exceeded that even with my daily driving routines

    Basscatt made me think about my overheat a month or so ago... My engine heats up very quickly and sometimes hovers above 230*/240*

    Recently had a fan fail and my AC compressor wouldn't come on, but i fix that issue... I hope. ???

    But the heat up is quick, sometimes jumping 10 to 20 degrees every few minutes after start up...

    So definitely gonna run the 10w30 asap bc I do want my engine to make it to its rebuild date... Hopefully a couple years away.

    Thanks again




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    Doesn't your car have HG issues?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MoistCabbage View Post
    Doesn't your car have HG issues?
    Yes sir, and the Transmission Seal thing... Code P0741 ... and TCS 1241 Magnasteer Malfunction ; it's been raining so I haven't had an opportunity to climb under there and Check & Clean the connections to the Magnasteer thing

    I try to drive it like a blind 100year old man tho... Surprised its still going without blowing smoke like my mechanic friend "Diagnosed/Predicted" a year ago... Tho, when he put in a new starter, he did say he checked and had to retighten some (3) loose head bolts, so maybe that helped band aid that issue???


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    Re: Update Using Chevron 15w/40 Oil With 2 Quart Top Off

    Tightening head bolts is a bad idea. Head bolts have a thread locker applied from the factory. That not only locks the bolt, but seals the threads as well. That's the distinctive "snap" that is heard when the are "cracked" loose. Re-tightening them probably did more harm than good.
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